Jose Villarreal
 |
|
• Houston, TX, USA |
|
• Registered on 4/2/2003 |
|
• 9 posts |
|
|
|
 Posted:4/2/2003 15:02 |
|
|
I remeber reading on the international site that some of their engines don't require an oil change for at least 10K miles.
Are you all doing the change every 5K like the books says. After all these things use 16qts of oil.
What brand oild do you use.
Thanks in advance.
joe |
|
Raymond Golson
 |
|
• Piscataway, NJ, USA |
|
• Registered on 8/19/2002 |
|
• 68 posts |
|
|
|
|
Posted:4/2/2003 15:37 |
|
|
Per the dealer where I brought my truck it was a 5000 mile change interval, now I do it every 3500. Friend of mine (head mechanic at a shop) has the F350 dually PSD and he changes it every 3500 so I adopted his routine as his trucks last forever (he has two) and tows a 5th wheel 44ft trailer all over the country (racing schedule/traveling)
2000 Excursion Ltd 4x4, Air Raid, Good Year 305x70x16 on stock rim, Reflex shocks, ACCER DVD system, JVC audio system, stainless steel bug shield - TRADED! Black 2003 Excursion Ltd 4x4, loaded! SWAPPED! White 2003 Excursion Eddie Bauer, loaded also! Will stay stock for the winter months ahead! |
|
Scott Coats
 |
|
• Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA |
|
• Registered on 1/8/2003 |
|
• 84 posts |
• 1
|
|
|
Posted:4/3/2003 09:26 |
|
|
I have the 7.3L PowerStroke and change the oil every 5,000 miles. I drive a 50/50 mix of highway/city and don't tow anything (but I could, I could!). I use Shell Rotella oil (available at Costco, Wal-Mart) and K&N oil filters which I change every second oil change. Every fourth oil change I also swap out the fuel filter (six for $60 on eBay--half of what Ford gets).
Your choice of oil is important. You can NOT use standard oil meant for gasoline engines in a diesel. You must use diesel-rated oil and the Rotella is very high quality fleet oil at a decent price (about $35/case I think).
If I towed I would adopt the 3000 mile schedule and change the filter every time. I'd also flush the trans (not change the fluid but flush--there's a big difference) every 30,000 miles. Transmissions need love too!
I also use a diesel fuel additive every oil change...dunno if it does anything to keep the injectors clean, but it makes me feel better.
Just my $0.02, but my engines last forever, too. I just sold my 1987 Vette with 240,000 miles on the original engine and it was running very strong. Oil changes are cheap compared to the alternative.
Scott
2001 PSD Excursion, 4" Lift, 315's on 17" Weld Evo Velocity-8 chrome wheels, 315-75-17 BFG AT/KO's, SS Westin Tube Steps, 2200 watt sound system, full pillar gauges, AFE Air Raid, DiabloSport Revolution experimental custom EEC chip (120HP) tune, 4" exhaust, clear turn/head lamps, safety brake light, oversize wipers, 2003 SuperDuty turn signal/heated power towing mirrors, billet grill, limo tint, ProComp steering stabilizer and shocks, the list goes on... |
|
Dave Sullivan
 |
|
• Kitchener, XX, Canada |
|
• Registered on 2/27/2003 |
|
• 199 posts |
|
|
|
|
Posted:4/3/2003 16:52 |
|
|
I just make sure the spec's are right and buy the cheapest I can find which is the cdn tire 20ltr pail 15w40 diesel special. I discovered that I need to find the 10w30 diesel pail special for the winter as well. I was using penzoil but its too expensive, $3.00/ltr here.I do mine every 10,000 km (6200mi) and the oil is usualy reasonably clean. I change the filter every oil change and I've found that its cheaper to buy them by the case.
I had the dealer change my diff's and transmission around 40k miles. Dummy me forgot the transfer case so I will need to do that myself this spring.
I think the important part is to ensure that you change the oil regularily and not to let it go beyond the max. As a note, penzoil claimes twice the milage. Dunno how true that is. Any one know for sure?
Dave.
|
|
Weatherlite
 |
|
• Mountain Home AFB, ID, USA |
|
• Registered on 10/21/2002 |
|
• 133 posts |
• 1
|
|
 Posted:4/5/2003 17:24 |
|
|
To solve all of your problems and answer all of your questions...go to:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
There is so much info there that it would take you quite a while to weed through it all. So, I'll help a little by giving my .02 first.
For the diesel I agree that you NEED an oil rated specifically for a diesel. There's different things going on in there and the loads on the internals are enormous compared to a gas engine. As for filters...avoid Fram! That goes for any engine really. No, they aren't bad but there are so many more out there that are much better for the same price or even less. Even the cheapie Wal-Mart brand is better.
In my own personal experience and drawing from what I have read from many others...if you own a vehicle that you plan on keeping for a LOOOOONG time, get a bypass filter. The quick version of this is it's a special filter that filters fluids down to ~3 microns for most and even down to submicronic in some cases. What this is doing is keeping EVERYTHING out of your oil that could be a contaminant. (except for the soot in diesels...I haven't heard of anyone making a filter THAT fine) The theory behind it is that if you keep all of the crud out of your oil none of it can work it's way back into the delicate parts of your engine. The filter only filters a portion of your oil at a time because the openings are too small to allow full flow so the engine wouldn't receive proper lube. However, after 5 minutes they have usually filtered about 10 gallons or so.
The downfall to this is money. They are a bit expensive and some have expensive filters. The upside is that there is less wear on the engine and you can extend the oil drain intervals indefinitely with oil analysis. So, you take the cost of the filter and the cost of oil analysis spread over the amount of miles you would expect it to last and see if it's cheaper with or without the filter.
For a gas engine it's close until you get over 25,000 miles or so. On a diesel you see $ benfits in as few as two oil changes.
Of course this is just my point of view. There is sufficient evidence out there to support my view though. Such as a military bulldozer that had a problem. Equipment like that doesn't record mileage...it goes by hours. The number of hours on that particular piece equated to about 750,000 miles! This was on the ORIGINAL oil! They just kept up with the proper maintenance and had a bypass filter. When they pulled it apart they couldn't find the problem. Turns out it was a contaminated oil sample when they did the oil analysis. So, they put the original oil back in and kept her runnin.
Now, for my own experience...nowhere near like that but I installed a bypass in my X 12,000 miles ago. I used a special cleaning solution first and used Amsoil full synthetic. Just did my first filter change (using Amsoil full flow filters) and the oil was still a golden brown like it should be. Yes, there was some discoloration but it was normal for my particular system. I'm having an analysis done soon and don't expect to see bad results.
Anyway, sorry this is so long winded...I'm just enthused about the bypass filters. They're awesome at doing their jobs! Check out that site! You'll be glad that you did!
Mikie |
|
Picturemaker
 |
|
• virginia beach, VA, USA |
|
• Registered on 2/27/2003 |
|
• 10 posts |
• 1
|
|
|
Posted:4/8/2003 11:07 |
|
|
|
I've been running Mobil 1 15w50 in mine and change it every 10,000 miles. I tow a travel trailer (5800Lbs). Otherwise, driving conditions are mostly in town. I've just always trusted Mobil 1. Much of that trust comes from the experience I've had with the product in my boat. I run twin 454's, and the boat is heavy. While underway, these engines are under enormous constant load. I used to run the recommended 30W in them. When starting cold, the oil pressure would be at 50 PSI. Cracking up to cruise speed (3300 RPM) it would remain there (maybe creap up slightly). But, after running for a hour or more, when I would bring them back to idle speed, the PSI would drop to 25. The numbers are the same at start up and crank up with the Mobil 1, but I've run it as long as 5 hours at cruise speed, and upon dropping back to idle, the PSI only drops to 40 and within 5-10 min (remaining at idle) will actually climb back to around 45 PSI. The oil also stays cleaner much longer. |
|