Dec 20, 2012 at 5:24 PM
Hello,
I've re-posted this as a new thread after discovered some important details that should help significantly toward solving my problem. I've just relocated from PHX, AZ to SLC, UT and since it's December it's rarely above 35-40 deg F this time of year. As a result, my cold-weather starting problem occurs daily now, even multiple times each day if the car sits for 3+ hours. When the temperature was warm (in sunny PHX) I never had a problem starting the car (04 Crown Vic P71, 160K miles) which I purchased Oct 2012. Every time I turned the key they starter would crank and my 4.6L engine fired up immediately.
Once the ambient temperature (ie: temp outside the vehicle) dropped below approx 40 deg F, the car would crank without any problems but would NOT fire. I would try to start the car from 5-15 minutes and eventually it would usually start. Once or twice I had to wait several hours until the ambient temp was higher, like in the afternoon. After much experimentation, I discovered a consistent relationship between the light sequence on the instrument cluster and whether the car would give me a short start (crank & immediate fire) vs. no start or long start (crank/no fire or extended crank then fire). After much stumbling around through trial & error, I've discovered (in cold weather) if I turn the key to "ON", but stop short of attempting to start the car, I always get 1 of 2 light sequences, which I'll define as L/S #1 & L/S #2 (see below for details). The car WILL NOT start if I get "L/S #1", the car WILL start if I get "L/S #2".
L/S #1 (car cranks indefinitely but WILL NOT start if only the following lights up in "ON" position)
-Low-Fuel light (briefly ON then turns OFF)
-Check Engine (ON-stays lit) **this light is ALWAYS on while driving and I believe it's likely an emissions system failure/issue and feel it's unrelated to the starting problem since the car has started without issues while this light has been on (unfortunately I don't have the diagnostic code yet)
L/S #2 (car WILL crank and fire almost immediately if the following lights up):
-Low-Fuel (briefly ON then OFF)
-Battery (On-stays ON)
-Check Engine (ON-stays ON)
-Check Fuel Cap (ON-stays ON)
I've consistently been succesfull in somehow getting L/S #1 to "change" to L/S #2 by turning the key to "ON" and letting it sit anywhere from 30 sec to 5 mins. I've also learned the length of time req'd for key to remain in "ON" in order to get to L/S #2 from L/S #1 seems 100% a function of how cold ambient air is...the colder outside the longer key has to sit in "ON". Example, today is was 20 deg F and I had to leave the key in "ON" for at least 5 mins. Last week it was closer to the low 40's and I got to L/S #2 after key was in "ON" for
I've re-posted this as a new thread after discovered some important details that should help significantly toward solving my problem. I've just relocated from PHX, AZ to SLC, UT and since it's December it's rarely above 35-40 deg F this time of year. As a result, my cold-weather starting problem occurs daily now, even multiple times each day if the car sits for 3+ hours. When the temperature was warm (in sunny PHX) I never had a problem starting the car (04 Crown Vic P71, 160K miles) which I purchased Oct 2012. Every time I turned the key they starter would crank and my 4.6L engine fired up immediately.
Once the ambient temperature (ie: temp outside the vehicle) dropped below approx 40 deg F, the car would crank without any problems but would NOT fire. I would try to start the car from 5-15 minutes and eventually it would usually start. Once or twice I had to wait several hours until the ambient temp was higher, like in the afternoon. After much experimentation, I discovered a consistent relationship between the light sequence on the instrument cluster and whether the car would give me a short start (crank & immediate fire) vs. no start or long start (crank/no fire or extended crank then fire). After much stumbling around through trial & error, I've discovered (in cold weather) if I turn the key to "ON", but stop short of attempting to start the car, I always get 1 of 2 light sequences, which I'll define as L/S #1 & L/S #2 (see below for details). The car WILL NOT start if I get "L/S #1", the car WILL start if I get "L/S #2".
L/S #1 (car cranks indefinitely but WILL NOT start if only the following lights up in "ON" position)
-Low-Fuel light (briefly ON then turns OFF)
-Check Engine (ON-stays lit) **this light is ALWAYS on while driving and I believe it's likely an emissions system failure/issue and feel it's unrelated to the starting problem since the car has started without issues while this light has been on (unfortunately I don't have the diagnostic code yet)
L/S #2 (car WILL crank and fire almost immediately if the following lights up):
-Low-Fuel (briefly ON then OFF)
-Battery (On-stays ON)
-Check Engine (ON-stays ON)
-Check Fuel Cap (ON-stays ON)
I've consistently been succesfull in somehow getting L/S #1 to "change" to L/S #2 by turning the key to "ON" and letting it sit anywhere from 30 sec to 5 mins. I've also learned the length of time req'd for key to remain in "ON" in order to get to L/S #2 from L/S #1 seems 100% a function of how cold ambient air is...the colder outside the longer key has to sit in "ON". Example, today is was 20 deg F and I had to leave the key in "ON" for at least 5 mins. Last week it was closer to the low 40's and I got to L/S #2 after key was in "ON" for
MichaelC
Phoenix, AZ
"light 'em up"
Phoenix, AZ
"light 'em up"