SuperMotors.net Forums
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 Posted:1/7/2013 18:56 |
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i have just recently been having problems with my vic, in which involves stuttering of my engine. I have put in new oil, sea-foamed it, put in most new plugs, and added new coolant. My problems involve a leaking coolant, which will be fixed, and a decrease in power. This decrease in power starts with the engine light blinking and progresses to my vic going a steady 30-35 mph and a lot of effort to climb a hill. This soon goes away as the blinking engine light goes away, regaining some power, but not enough to be fine. This cycles back and forth and im worried my engine will cease if i ever drive longer. My friends and i have checked the exhaust pressure, which is uneven, and most of the connections in the engine, which are fine. I only hope someone had to deal with this problem before so i can get it fixed quick and have less things to worry about. |
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 Posted:1/8/2013 05:15 |
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Ford made adjustments to the "Check Engine" light to blink or flash if a problem wasn't fixed. When the lights starts the flashing, the PCM goes into "limp" mode as not to do too much damage to the engine so it can be fixed. You need to pull the code with a code reader, and fix the problem.
AutoZone, Advanced Auto, and O'Reilly's all will pull the code for you at no charge. It is almost impossible to work on a modern vehicle without a code reader, and the reader needs to be a part of your tool box if you do work on your own car. Plain Jane readers cost under $100 and more advanced code readers go up to about $250. All you need is a reader to get the code, then research the codes on the Internet.
A code -402 for a bad O2 sensor could only be a vacuum leak, so do your research before spending too much money on parts that do not need to be changed.
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PROUD MEMBER of www.crownvic.net
It's just a SUPER-DUTY Mustang GT Sedan. 198K miles and still rolling HARD.
1997 Crown Victoria P71 SVT *** ex-US Marshall service (the CAR)
STOCK?? I bet it was modified. 
13.26 @ 107.24 MPH 1/4 mi w/ me, tools, & full tank of 93 octane
I added CAI, NICHE 19 X 8.5 " wheels with 245/45ZR 19 rubbers, and completely rebuilt the front end with poly bushings, Kooks headers, 2 1/4inch exhaust, TCI 2200-2400 rpm Stall converter
.PLANS:: engine upgrade, 5.4L 2v stroker, rebuild interior in leather w/ buckets, thinking about turbos
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Posted:1/8/2013 08:32 |
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+1 on the code reader they are really a must with the newer cars and can help narrow you down quite a bit
with my 99 i had the same issue one of my coils died on my #1 cylinder and the codes from the reader helped me track down which one was bad
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Posted:1/8/2013 17:38 |
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i just pulled the codes today and it said cylinder 8 misfire due to a loose coil, but there is still a problem with a massively leaking coolant, which my friends think it is a problem with the radiator or the water pump, and the power steering, which they believe it is the pump itself, but i won't find out until tomorrow, but is there anything they should look for first? |
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rss459
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• Livonia, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 12/30/2012 |
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• 13 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:1/8/2013 19:41 |
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Once the coil packs start going get ready to replace them all in the next year. Autozone basic reader 35 bucks and just google the code.
I missed which engine you have. Is it the 4.6? Has the intake manifold been replaced with the updated one that has the non-plastic thermostat housing? If not could be a crack.
Sorry doing this from my phone sucks..lol |
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Posted:1/9/2013 07:45 |
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+1 on the manifold you want the one with the aluminum water passage
on the coils you will most likely have to change at least the one to verify that is the bad one you can move it to a new cylinder reset the codes and pull again that will usually prove which one is bad the easiest
But you are right on the coolant leak you want to try and get that fixed first as that can cause the misfire if it is getting into the air/fuel system somehow |
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