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I knew there was a problem in this drum, because the e-brake cable wouldn't retract. And I wasn't really surprised when I had to use a sledge hammer to get the wheel off the hub. But I didn't expect to find the speed nuts still holding the drum on, indicating that these are the factory brakes, and they've never even been inspected. I had to use penetrating oil, a BP hammer, and a propane torch to get the drum off. There was over 3/4" difference between the drum I.D. and the O.D. of what was left of the shoes. I expected the wheel cylinder to be hyperextended and ruined, but I was shocked that it's still in good condition. EVERYTHING ELSE is trashed, so I'm just going to put on all new rear brakes. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. The drum caliper I'm using is similar to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GIUCSK.
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The first step was to pressure-wash all the crap off the backing plate so it was cleaner to work on, and inspect. There wasn't enough damage to the backing plate to replace it, or repair. Then I installed the new BRCA-5 cable, greased all the points where the hardware touches the backing plate, and assembled the brakes. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. Before mounting a new or old drum or wheel, clean ALL their mounting surfaces as Ford recommends:
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There's no reason to cheap-out on brake parts when Ford/MotorCraft is so affordable & available. BRSK-7181 was under $15. I only bought BD60819E drums because there was a 2-week wait for BRD43. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. Before mounting a new or old drum or wheel, clean ALL their mounting surfaces as Ford recommends:
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This truck uses BR100 12x3" shoes, which are location-specific (each shoe is unique). I found it easiest to grease & hang the front one; then connect the upper retractor spring, grease, and rotate the rear shoe onto the pushrod; then hook the lower spring across them; then install the autoadjuster; then the autoadjuster arm & its spring; then hook the e-brake cable to its arm; then hang that stack of parts (bolt, washer, spring, e-brake arm, e-brake cam, autoadjuster cable) last. The final step is to raise the autoadjuster arm enough to hook its cable (which must be routed over the guide on the rear shoe). All points of metal-to-metal contact are greased. The only tools needed are: Snap-On B1359B for shoe retainer springs 1/2" socket & ratchet for e-brake lever nut BP hammer to drive e-brake lever bolt splines in (prybar during disassembly) Drum caliper (to pre-set autoadjuster) similar to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GIUCSKIF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
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I found it easiest to grease & hang the front shoe; then connect the upper retractor spring, grease, and rotate the rear shoe onto the pushrod; then hook the lower spring across them; then install the autoadjuster; then the autoadjuster arm & its spring; then hook the e-brake cable to its arm; then hang that stack of parts (bolt, washer, spring, e-brake arm, e-brake cam, autoadjuster cable) last. The final step is to raise the autoadjuster arm enough to hook its cable (which must be routed over the guide on the rear shoe). All points of metal-to-metal contact are greased, but not so much that it could contaminate the friction surfaces. IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. The only tools needed are: Snap-On B1359B for shoe retainer springs 1/2" socket & ratchet for e-brake lever nut BP hammer to drive e-brake lever bolt splines in (prybar during disassembly) Drum caliper (to pre-set autoadjuster) similar to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GIUCSKBefore mounting a new or old drum or wheel, clean ALL their mounting surfaces as Ford recommends:
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