Kyle87m5

Member Profile
User: Kyle87m5
Location: XX AFB, U.S.A.
Email: E-mail this user
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Created: 8/16/2016
Last Modified: Never
Profile Hits: 337

Registry Entries
Registries:
Image Model Nickname Hits Updated
1994 Ford Bronco   30 0 0  0  2,115  7/21/2017
Newest Media: PCM Bottom.jpg
PCM Bottom.jpg
118 hits | 64.88 KB | Posted: 2017-07-21

(Posted in: PCM)
PCM Top.jpg
PCM Top.jpg
116 hits | 89.68 KB | Posted: 2017-07-21

(Posted in: PCM)
PCM.jpg
PCM.jpg
125 hits | 89.75 KB | Posted: 2017-07-21

(Posted in: PCM)
1/16" - 1/8" Sealing surface! don't think I want to put this on, knowing its going to leak....
Dorman Timing Cover 4.jpg
109 hits | 63.14 KB | Posted: 2017-04-07

1/16" - 1/8" Sealing surface! don't think I want to put this on, knowing its going to leak....
(Posted in: Dorman Timing Cover)
Dorman Timing Cover 3.jpg
Dorman Timing Cover 3.jpg
145 hits | 93.13 KB | Posted: 2017-04-07

(Posted in: Dorman Timing Cover)
Passenger side. Plenty of sealing surface contact. The dark shading in the bottom of the port is where the backing plate contacts and is larger than the actual port in the cover. ...
Dorman Timing Cover 2.jpg
121 hits | 71.94 KB | Posted: 2017-04-07

Passenger side. Plenty of sealing surface contact. The dark shading in the bottom of the port is where the backing plate contacts and is larger than the actual port in the cover. ...
(Posted in: Dorman Timing Cover)
This is the Driver's Side. The inner line is the outline of a Gates water pump, the outer is the outline of the backing plate. As you can see, Dorman added the cutout that affects the sealing surface of the water pump. I should have purchased the ATP 103002 Timing cover. It does not show these cutouts in pictures. In following pictures, I measured the actual sealing surface to be from 1/16" - 1/8". No wonder there are leaks from this area!...
Dorman Timing Cover 1.jpg
122 hits | 75.5 KB | Posted: 2017-04-07

This is the Driver's Side. The inner line is the outline of a Gates water pump, the outer is the outline of the backing plate. As you can see, Dorman added the cutout that affects the sealing surface of the water pump. I should have purchased the ATP 103002 Timing cover. It does not show these cutouts in pictures. In following pictures, I measured the actual sealing surface to be from 1/16" - 1/8". No wonder there are leaks from this area!...
(Posted in: Dorman Timing Cover)
These were the tools I used to remove and disassemble the side mirror: 1/4" Ratchet, 3" extension, T10 Torx, T20 Torx, T25 Torx, Medium/Long Flat screwdriver, Stubby Flat Screwdriver, not pictured - 8mm socket for inside mounting bolt. The phillips screwdriver was to remove the door panel....
File_000.jpeg
240 hits | 56.24 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

These were the tools I used to remove and disassemble the side mirror: 1/4" Ratchet, 3" extension, T10 Torx, T20 Torx, T25 Torx, Medium/Long Flat screwdriver, Stubby Flat Screwdriver, not pictured - 8mm socket for inside mounting bolt. The phillips screwdriver was to remove the door panel....
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )
How the metal bracket and mirror look now. The after pics definitely make this a worthwhile project. Since I had zero supplies at this house, it cost me ~$16 for paint, blue painters tape, and a sanding block, and some bolts for a window motor problem I had. The first side took me about 2 hours to take apart and get to paint because I was trying to figure out how to take apart and not break the mirror. The passenger side took all of 10 min once I knew how to do it. Painting and letting it dry took the most time....
image.jpeg
198 hits | 50.16 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

How the metal bracket and mirror look now. The after pics definitely make this a worthwhile project. Since I had zero supplies at this house, it cost me ~$16 for paint, blue painters tape, and a sanding block, and some bolts for a window motor problem I had. The first side took me about 2 hours to take apart and get to paint because I was trying to figure out how to take apart and not break the mirror. The passenger side took all of 10 min once I knew how to do it. Painting and letting it dry took the most time....
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )
A pic of the whole mirror to see how it really pops against the cleaned up chrome. ...
image.jpeg
172 hits | 56.68 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

A pic of the whole mirror to see how it really pops against the cleaned up chrome. ...
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )
For starters, I don't know why my pictures keep turning when uploading them, it's annoying. Here is what the finished product looks like. This is the inside area I talked about that needs to be sanded. I sanded as much as I could take, (I hate sanding). I painted with a semi-gloss black to restore to somewhat original color. At first I did not paint the outside screws that hold the mirror assembly onto the door. They looked gross, so I took them off and painted them as well. I did like having them aluminum in color, I might take them back off and sand them back to bare aluminum....
image.jpeg
152 hits | 67.32 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

For starters, I don't know why my pictures keep turning when uploading them, it's annoying. Here is what the finished product looks like. This is the inside area I talked about that needs to be sanded. I sanded as much as I could take, (I hate sanding). I painted with a semi-gloss black to restore to somewhat original color. At first I did not paint the outside screws that hold the mirror assembly onto the door. They looked gross, so I took them off and painted them as well. I did like having them aluminum in color, I might take them back off and sand them back to bare aluminum....
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )
And this is what you will be left with for the housing. See the plastic support bar that runs NW to SE. You can move the motors carefully, they operate with plastic gears. My driver's side would slip the gears while moving side to side. This didn't cause any problems (yet) after re-installation. To remove the chrome backing, there are 4 T10 Torx that are golden in color. Unscrew those and you now have a fully disassembled side mirror, ready for sanding smooth and painting. I had numerous nicks and gouges, and I sanded them to reduce their appearance, but I wasn't looking for perfection here, just a smoother cleaner look. I didn't take any pictures of that process, but I used a medium grit sanding block. That got into all the nooks and crannies quite well. Make sure you sand on the inside edge of the mirror housing as well. This had some of the worst pitting of the plastic, and will be most visible from the driver's perspective since its visible every time you look at the mirror. After sanding the plastic housing and the metal mounting bracket, I cleaned all the parts with soap and water and let dry before painting. I scrubbed the chrome backing with the rough side of a kitchen sponge with light/medium pressure and did not scratch it at all. ...
image.jpeg
134 hits | 53.96 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

And this is what you will be left with for the housing. See the plastic support bar that runs NW to SE. You can move the motors carefully, they operate with plastic gears. My driver's side would slip the gears while moving side to side. This didn't cause any problems (yet) after re-installation. To remove the chrome backing, there are 4 T10 Torx that are golden in color. Unscrew those and you now have a fully disassembled side mirror, ready for sanding smooth and painting. I had numerous nicks and gouges, and I sanded them to reduce their appearance, but I wasn't looking for perfection here, just a smoother cleaner look. I didn't take any pictures of that process, but I used a medium grit sanding block. That got into all the nooks and crannies quite well. Make sure you sand on the inside edge of the mirror housing as well. This had some of the worst pitting of the plastic, and will be most visible from the driver's perspective since its visible every time you look at the mirror. After sanding the plastic housing and the metal mounting bracket, I cleaned all the parts with soap and water and let dry before painting. I scrubbed the chrome backing with the rough side of a kitchen sponge with light/medium pressure and did not scratch it at all. ...
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )
Mirror removed. Notice the foam seal that keeps moisture out of the motors. Also, there are two metal tabs that go over a plastic support bar on the motor side. When removing the retaining clips, be careful not to pry on these, or bend them. Once you pop off most of the retaining clips, you can use the support bar next to the metal clips to pop the whole mirror off. ...
image.jpeg
150 hits | 73.17 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

Mirror removed. Notice the foam seal that keeps moisture out of the motors. Also, there are two metal tabs that go over a plastic support bar on the motor side. When removing the retaining clips, be careful not to pry on these, or bend them. Once you pop off most of the retaining clips, you can use the support bar next to the metal clips to pop the whole mirror off. ...
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )
Here you can start to see what the locking tabs look like as you start to un-clip more and more of the retaining clips. Also note the rubber seal on the bottom. Its more like a very thin bladder like material. Continue to pull the mirror up while releasing more and more of the locking tabs, working your way around the perimeter....
image.jpeg
157 hits | 46.36 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

Here you can start to see what the locking tabs look like as you start to un-clip more and more of the retaining clips. Also note the rubber seal on the bottom. Its more like a very thin bladder like material. Continue to pull the mirror up while releasing more and more of the locking tabs, working your way around the perimeter....
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )
This is to show about how far I raised the side mirror open to pry off the tabs. Here I have 3-4 tabs removed to help take the picture....
image.jpeg
146 hits | 39.91 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

This is to show about how far I raised the side mirror open to pry off the tabs. Here I have 3-4 tabs removed to help take the picture....
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )
Now for the fun part! I used a stubby flat head screwdriver to put pressure on the outside edge of the mirror, raising it up. Raise it up just enough to get a long flat head screwdriver inside and pry the plastic locking tabs up. Be careful to not gouge or tear the rubber seal that surrounds the mirror motors. With a flashlight or sunny day you can see inside ok for the first couple of tabs. ...
image.jpeg
198 hits | 50.51 KB | Posted: 2016-08-18

Now for the fun part! I used a stubby flat head screwdriver to put pressure on the outside edge of the mirror, raising it up. Raise it up just enough to get a long flat head screwdriver inside and pry the plastic locking tabs up. Be careful to not gouge or tear the rubber seal that surrounds the mirror motors. With a flashlight or sunny day you can see inside ok for the first couple of tabs. ...
(Posted in: Side Mirror Restoration )