12After.JPG 1 hits | 71.88 KB | Posted: 11/25/09 Everything has been reassembled. The compressor was shipped with 7oz of oil, and the dye is blended with 1.5 oz, and all other components were emptied, so no oil needs to be added since the total oil capacity is 7 oz. To ensure all moisture is remo... (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
11Parts.JPG 3 hits | 101.62 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 The kit I bought contained a pint of flush, a new oiled compressor w/clutch & pulley, a bottle of PAG-46 oil, a blue orifice tube (none of which are shown), the dye, the accumulator/drier, & the o-rings. I bought the red orifice tube & the adapter f... (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
10Screen.JPG 2 hits | 42.77 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 This orifice tube is blue (with black residue on most of it), indicating it's for R-12. Note the fine metal shavings on the filter screen, indicating 1) that the compressor has failed, & 2) that there are more shavings between the compressor & evapo... (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
09Orifice.JPG 3 hits | 72.17 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 After recovering the refrigerant (using the proper equipment according to applicable laws), remove the orifice tube from the evaporator core inlet. (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
08Parts.JPG 2 hits | 125.88 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 System components (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
07Out.JPG 3 hits | 103.72 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 Even working alone, it's fairly easy to lift the entire refrigerant system out of the engine bay as a sealed unit. So for anyone wanting to delete the A/C system: it's not necessary to vent the refrigerant. Just take it out & leave it full.
(Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
06Gone.JPG 1 hits | 92.22 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 Even working alone, it's fairly easy to lift the entire refrigerant system out of the engine bay as a sealed unit. I'm going to install the A/C-delete idler pulley in place of the compressor so I can still drive it. (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
04Evap.JPG 1 hits | 58.61 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 The butyl sealant between the case halves takes some effort to separate, and then the evaporator & cover can be removed forward & upward together. Obviously, even a good shop-vac can't clean the core thoroughly working only thru the blower opening. ... (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
05Ready.JPG 0 hits | 90.39 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 The evaporator has been removed from its housing; the compressor is unbolted from the engine; & the condenser is loose, but still in place. The radiator has been shifted out of its cradles by removing the fan & shroud, but the coolant lines are stil... (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
03Inside.JPG 6 hits | 71.35 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 There's one fastener for the evaporator cover inside: an 11mm bolt. (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
02CaseScrews.JPG 2 hits | 73.05 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 I'll remove the evaporator core for 2 reasons:
1) to check for metal shavings from the failed compressor, and to flush them out if necessary, &
2) to wash the squirrel crap out of the fins. I vacuumed out what I could while replacing the blower & ... (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
01Before.JPG 2 hits | 76.91 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 Because the compressor is locked up, and because it's more expensive to repair an R-12 system than to convert it, I'm going to swap to R-134a while replacing the compressor. (Posted in: A/C Conversion to R-134a)
56Cleanup.JPG 4 hits | 75.11 KB | Posted: 11/24/09 On a nice, cold, rainy day, he got to spend his first quality time with the truck. This is just the first pass - it's gonna need several more cleanings before the paint can be touched up. (Posted in: Base album)
