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12greaseman.jpg Because both the manifold & the head were still relatively true & UN-rusted, I used the same sealant as the factory - chassis grease in a thin film around each port.  When the manifold gets hot, the grease will bake into a varnish, much like cast iron cookware.  The varnish creates an effective seal.  And like seasoned cast-iron cookware, it's also a non-stick coating, which allows the manifold to expand & contract without cracking.  Gaskets can adhere and cause binding, which makes cracks more likely.

If the surface is too rough for grease to work, use high-temperature silicone.

[url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1170781][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1170781/thumbnail/exhmangask.jpg[/img][/url]

Years later, I did this:

[url=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1054780][img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1054780/thumbnail/05gray41.jpg[/img][/url]
12greaseman.jpg | Hits: 4467 | Posted on: 11/30/09 | View original size (807.3 KB)

Because both the manifold & the head were still relatively true & UN-rusted, I used the same sealant as the factory - chassis grease in a thin film around each port. When the manifold gets hot, the grease will bake into a varnish, much like cast iron cookware. The varnish creates an effective seal. And like seasoned cast-iron cookware, it's also a non-stick coating, which allows the manifold to expand & contract without cracking. Gaskets can adhere and cause binding, which makes cracks more likely.

If the surface is too rough for grease to work, use high-temperature silicone.



Years later, I did this:

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