jicki mojo
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• dallas, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 11/26/2004 |
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• 28 posts |
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 Posted:11/30/2004 13:37 |
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Got another question folks (imagine that)
I am going with a procomp 4in lift with mx 6 shocks with 315 75 r16 procomp all terrain tires
My question is on the rear should I go with just the blocks or spend the extra money and get the replacement rear springs.
Has anyone else done this and have any advice or reasoning for either option and what did you do to get it right?
Thanks in advance Billy 
00 4x4 psd ex
4in procomp lift
315 75 r16 procomp all terrains
The Green Machine |
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
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Posted:11/30/2004 14:37 |
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I'd think you'd be able to get away with front springs,rear add a leafs with 5" blocks to keep a decent rake on the Excursion.
You getting it done at 4 Wheel Parts Plano up the street,I'm right by there.
Bill
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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jicki mojo
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• dallas, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 11/26/2004 |
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• 28 posts |
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Posted:11/30/2004 14:41 |
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Bill Thanks I am getting it downtown at the warehouse (we get a discount ) and Im going to put it on friday here at work.
00 4x4 psd ex
4in procomp lift
315 75 r16 procomp all terrains
The Green Machine |
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
• 1
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Posted:11/30/2004 14:52 |
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| Quote: | | Bill Thanks I am getting it downtown at the warehouse (we get a discount ) and Im going to put it on friday here at work. |
Depending on when you do the install I could swing by to see the goings on  At least you'll be inside away from the elements 
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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jicki mojo
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• dallas, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 11/26/2004 |
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• 28 posts |
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Posted:11/30/2004 15:29 |
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Bill I am ordering the kit today I will be putting on the lift with a mechanic friend of mine here at nth ctrl ford friday evening.
I decided to go with the blocks so I can still tow my car hauler. With the new rear springs it is not recomended to tow!!! Can you believe that
00 4x4 psd ex
4in procomp lift
315 75 r16 procomp all terrains
The Green Machine |
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
• 1
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Posted:11/30/2004 17:52 |
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I dunno what year X you have but one thing's for sure is a rear sway bar is a must 
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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Posted:12/1/2004 21:52 |
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| Quote: | | I dunno what year X you have but one thing's for sure is a rear sway bar is a must |
You will need to buy or fabricate some drop brackets for the sway bar(s). Not sure if one is provided with the kit for the front, but the rear you could easily fabricate a set or modify the Hellwig drop brackets.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
• 1
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Posted:12/2/2004 15:26 |
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Probably be able to make the very last link holes with a 4" lift on the rear?
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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J-Douglas
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• San Antonio, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 3/18/2004 |
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• 89 posts |
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Posted:12/3/2004 04:21 |
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I agree that the rear sway bar is a must. I am blessed to have the factory installed rear sway bar on my X. I love it. I am ready to install my 4inch lift, so WHERE can I buy sway bar endlinks that will accomodate for the lift? I know all lifts come with the end links for the FRONT, but I need them for the REAR too!
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Regarding the post about towing......
That's interesting that ProCrap (sorry, I meant ProComp) says you shouldn't tow with the rear lift springs. Common sense tells me that springs would be SAFER than FIVE inches of stacked lift blocks!!!! I mean, THINK ABOUT IT.....extending the distance between the axle and the springs increases LEVERAGE...... causing axle wrap.
What amazes me, is that we don't hear about spring shackle hangers being torn apart from being under an 8000 pound truck, with 600 lb. feet of torque, with a 5inch block separating all this power from where it's bolted to the axles!!!! I mean, it just seems like a recipe for disaster!
I have the 6.0 PSD and I often tow an 11,000 pound trailer. I am a nervous wreck about towing my trailer after I install my 4inch lift. I am worried about my axles just ripping out from under my truck from all this WEIGHT and POWER resting on tiny blocks. The blocks are increasing the leverage making the axles easier to move and twist UNDER the springs.
Does this make sense?
Do you have any suggestions how to improve the rigidity of my rear axle when towing an 11,000 pound trailer with a 4 or 5inch block in the rear?
5.5" Fabtech, 37x12.5x17 BFG AllTerrains, 17x9 Helo Maxx 8 Chrome. 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel. |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1
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Posted:12/3/2004 08:09 |
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| Quote: | I have the 6.0 PSD and I often tow an 11,000 pound trailer. I am a nervous wreck about towing my trailer after I install my 4inch lift. I am worried about my axles just ripping out from under my truck from all this WEIGHT and POWER resting on tiny blocks. The blocks are increasing the leverage making the axles easier to move and twist UNDER the springs.
Does this make sense?
Do you have any suggestions how to improve the rigidity of my rear axle when towing an 11,000 pound trailer with a 4 or 5inch block in the rear? |
Certainly a lifted vehicle is subject to axle wrapping issues. This'll cause you to burn through u-joints, too. There are really two things to take into consideration with a lifted vehicle:
1.) Pinion Angle
When you accelerate, your wheels will torque the rear end down and the pinion angle will change as your rear suspension comes under load. In factory form, take a look at the angle of the pinion on your rear end (where the driveshaft connects to) and the angle of the rear driveshaft itself. They should be just inside 180 degrees. You want a similar setup after getting your X lifted. This is usually accomplished by the lift kit's rear blocks having an angled side to the blocks, thus rotating your rear axle up a few degrees.
A lift will essentially raise the height of the transfer case and where the driveshaft starts from, thus creating an angle very much inside the 180-degree mark. While towing and/or under heavy load, the rear suspension is compressed more, causing a more severe pinion angle.
2.) Rear lift blocks
Really tall rear blocks that are supplied with lifts (if you use the factory rear springs) will cause a problem called axle wrap. This too will cause stability problems and u-joint issues. Because you've now added several inches of height between the leaf spring mounting point and the spring perch on the axle, the forces put on this small area can cause movement...particularly under acceleration or towing conditions. Your axle basically twists under load...and is much more susceptible to twisting under loads now that you've added a few inches between the two mounting points.
The best solution for these problems are to ensure your pinion angle is within acceptable range and to invest in a set of ladder bars or LANDYOT's radius rods. The concept behind each of these is to prevent axle wrap and stablize the rearend so that it can't move under heavy loads or acceleration. The bars/rods essentially keep the rear axle in place by preventing any twisting.
When I had my Bronco with 9" of lift, I was blowing ujoints left and right. My pinion angle was really bad and the 4" rear lift blocks were also a major contributor. I eventually did things the right way. I had been using factory leaf springs with 4" blocks. My pinion angle was fixed...but was a by-product of new (4" taller) rear leaf springs and a shim. No more busted u-joints, a better ride, and improved handling.
My $0.02. You should read LANDYOT's radius rod info pack, he's got some great illustrations in it that explain the axle wrap issue even further. These'll also be part of my install article after I install the radius rods this weekend on my X.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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