FordExcursions.com Forums
E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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 Posted:12/31/2004 03:44 |
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Took my X in today for an alignment at the dealership, came out with a quote for $1,100 to replace the ball joints. OUCH! $500 in parts, $600 in labor.
I'm going to do the job myself with the help of this article.
However, I'm having some trouble locating greaseable ball joint part numbers online. I've searched the posts here and it looks like quite a few of you have had greaseable ball joints installed.
Here's what I've found for Ford ball joints:
1.) Ford offers a lower ball joint (non-greaseable) for the 4x4 Excursion. $55.91/ea
2.) Through a TSB I found, Ford issued a replacement greaseable ball joint; part number 1C3Z-3050-AB and runs $66.44/ea.
3.) There is no upper, greaseable ball joint available from Ford, from what I can tell.
Aftermarket ball joints:
Mcquay Norris seems to be a popular one. They have two different versions, standard and "extreme." They offer greaseable ball joints, but these particular part numbers do not have "greaseable" in the description. Seems like the Twin I-beams are all greaseable according to the listing, but solid axle ball joints have no such indiciation. I'm wondering if any of you had these types installed and if you can verify which ones are greaseable? Here's what I've found:
1.) Mcquay Norris FA1171E - Ball joint front upper; extreme $38.99/ea
2.) Mcquay Norris FA1171 - Ball joint front upper
3.) Mcquay Norris FA1754 - Ball joint front lower
Then there's another company offering "Heavy Duty design" ball joints
1.) TRW 10339HD (upper) $48.99
2.) TRW 104149HD (lower) $79.99
These do not have "greaseable" in the description, but the pictures show what looks to be a grease fitting.
Other parts for a ball joint replacement job
Those of you that've had it done, can you verify if I'm missing any parts from the list here (maybe it's listed in an invoice)?
(2) F81Z-4A322-AA -- Yellow o-ring for hub assembly $2.20/ea ($4.40 total)
(2) F81Z-3254-CB -- Axle shaft main seal $24.40/ea ($48.80 total)
(2) F81Z-1S175-HCA -- Inside axle shaft seal $12.92/ea ($25.84 total)
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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rozett
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• Limington, ME, USA |
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• Registered on 1/10/2003 |
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• 163 posts |
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Posted:12/31/2004 11:27 |
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Eric, I went with NAPA Master Ride ball joints. The numbers from my bill are K8607T and K8388T. Both are greasable. I have about 10k miles on the new joints and have had no problems. 
//bruce
2000 Excursion Limited V10 4x4
ART brakes, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear sway bar, SD grille, V10 badges, Sylvania Silverstars, clear corners, and Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVO 285s. |
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birdman127
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• baltimore, MD, USA |
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• Registered on 10/13/2002 |
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• 581 posts |
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Posted:1/1/2005 06:42 |
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Eric,
My wife is a Manager at AutoZone and they have the greaseable ball joints in stock for our trucks. I think they are like 40-50 a piece??? I will check in a hour when she goes to work!!!
Moderator
Scott
2000 ltd 6.8 V10*4.30LS*
Lots of mods
check my gallery
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birdman127
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• baltimore, MD, USA |
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• Registered on 10/13/2002 |
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• 581 posts |
• 1
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Posted:1/1/2005 09:09 |
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OK
2000 Ford Excursion
Duralast lifetime warranty ball joints w/grease fittings
upper ball joint # FA 1754 32.99 ea.
lower ball joint # FA 1171 26.99 ea.
Moderator
Scott
2000 ltd 6.8 V10*4.30LS*
Lots of mods
check my gallery
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1
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Scott Stover
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• Fayetteville, NC, USA |
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• Registered on 4/16/2004 |
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• 354 posts |
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Posted:1/3/2005 18:23 |
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Well, I know what Im doin at tax time....I know mine need it!! Since were on the lines of that, can you replace the upper and lower tie rod ends?? Have any of you done this?
Scott
2000 X 4x4 V-10 4.3 LS
K&N
Gibson Catback
"Custom" Kickplates |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1
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Posted:1/3/2005 21:14 |
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| Quote: | | Well, I know what Im doin at tax time....I know mine need it!! Since were on the lines of that, can you replace the upper and lower tie rod ends?? Have any of you done this? |
I have never done this, but it seems to be if you're doing ball joints, it would be a good time to replace the tie rod ends if they need replacing. No clue on cost or what is involved for the DIY'er.
I'll document the balljoint replacement/install and post an article online afterwards. My primary concern is warming up my garage with the sub-zero temps we've been having!
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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rozett
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• Limington, ME, USA |
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• Registered on 1/10/2003 |
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• 163 posts |
• 1
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Posted:1/3/2005 21:40 |
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When my ball joints were replaced last spring, the tie rod ends were just fine and were not replaced. Apparently, my loose ball joints were hiding the bad front sway bar links. Once they were replaced my clunk was gone and all is well with the front end. 
//bruce
2000 Excursion Limited V10 4x4
ART brakes, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear sway bar, SD grille, V10 badges, Sylvania Silverstars, clear corners, and Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVO 285s. |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1
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Posted:1/3/2005 21:44 |
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| Quote: | | When my ball joints were replaced last spring, the tie rod ends were just fine and were not replaced. Apparently, my loose ball joints were hiding the bad front sway bar links. Once they were replaced my clunk was gone and all is well with the front end. |
I too have a clunking sound...my guess it's the worn ball joints. It comes and goes.
Here's a description on how to diagnose ball joint problems:
Typically, a worn ball joint will result in a clunking noise that occurs while driving. In extreme cases, a worn ball joint can break in two causing the wheel to de couple and the vehicle to lose control. If you hear any unusual noises from the suspension, it is wise to thoroughly investigate the problem. Start by raising the front of the vehicle (where the majority of noises come from) and checking the various suspension joints. Take a firm hold on the bottom of the tire and push and pull it back and forth. If you hear any clicking or feel any play in the wheel you may need to replace the joint. In some cases you may see the movement by watching the joint as you push and pull on the wheel. Repeat this at the rearward side of the tire (to check tie rod ends) and the top of the wheel to check for loose upper ball joints. When you remove the wheel, take a moment to check the wheel bearings for play as well as a loose, worn out, or broken wheel bearing can often create the same symptoms as a worn ball joint. [Source]
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1
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Posted:1/4/2005 00:55 |
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FWIW, here's what I found out about parts needed for ball joint replacements:
F81Z-4A322-AA --> Yellow o-ring for hub assembly
F81Z-3254-CB --> Axle shaft main seal
F81Z-1S175-HCA --> Inside axle shaft seal
LOWER BALL JOINT
I had mentioned earlier that the 1C3Z-3050-AB was a greaseable ball joint. According to Ford, here's the succession of ball joint part numbers for my 2000 Excursion:
1C3Z-3050-BA (original) --> notice this is an inverted "AB" from the part listed above. No clue why.
Replaced by 2C3Z-3050-BA
Replaced by 4C3Z-3050-BA (current part number as of 1/3/05) --> non-greaseable
UPPER BALL JOINT
Originally 2C3Z-3049-DA
Replaced by 4C3Z-3049-DA (current part number as of 1/3/05) --> non-greaseable
I'm not sure if this means that Ford issued a TSB for greaseable ball lower ball joints originally and ended up replacing them again with non-greaseable ball joints. I'm still uncertain as to which I'm going to go with.
OEM makes me feel better, but I'm going to do some more research to see if there's any other longetivity benefit to the greaseable balljoints available for nearly half the price. I got 132,000 miles out of my stock ball joints, so I don't think I can complain too much. I guess the question is will there be a risk of running greaseable ball joints, forgetting to grease them, getting water in them and thus have them fail prematurely...whereas sealed won't have these problems?
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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