FordExcursions.com Forums
LANDYOT
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• Subscriber since 11/23/2003 |
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• Newport News, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 7/15/2003 |
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• 1,110 posts |
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 Posted:1/10/2005 16:02 |
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| Quote: | | your correct -- looks as if thought the nuts are not tight, but in the first set of pictures the threaded end of rod looks to be adjusted and he wrote that "they were consistent on both ends" so that would lead you to think that the spring clamps are in position -- glenn z |
Glenn -- The sequence in which we see the photos posted above does not necessarily mean they were taken in the same sequence. I understand your aggravation with the axle-clamps moving on yours, and your reasoning to weld 'em in place. I just can't understand why they continued to rotate after all the trouble you went to in order to ensure they had sufficient clamping force on the axle tube. |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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Posted:1/10/2005 17:47 |
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| Quote: | | Quote: | looks also in the second set of photos that you do not have the radius rod front bracket located correctly, the bracket should be pushed back against the edge of the leaf spring, this keeps the bracket from moving back while under load
glenn z |
If I'm not mistaken, that second photo looking straight up at the spring clamp shows another condition other than not being positioned against the next leaf. That photo appears to have been taken before the nuts were tightened on the square U-bolts. So Eric had time afterwards to position it more precisely. The latest revision of my installation instructions says to position that clamp assembly about 1/8 to 3/16 inch forward of that next leaf. The end of that leaf will move fore & aft slightly as the suspension is loaded & unloaded. |
I'll have to snap some more "after" pics. The photo in question WAS taken before tightening the nuts on the u-bolts, so they are "generally" positioned in that photo. I did place them 1/8" to 3/16" forward of the leaf per LANDYOT's instructions, I remember specifically doing that. I need to start taking notes with all of the photos I take, I thought I covered everything but clearly I didn't...like final install pics! 
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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glenn z
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• harrison twp., MI, USA |
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• Registered on 8/22/2003 |
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• 63 posts |
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Posted:1/11/2005 09:05 |
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laqndyot, not sure why they would continue to spin, maybe the amount of lift which wasn't that much, about 3 inches over stock all the way around, maybe with the lift and additional amount of torque applied to rearend with the larges would cause it, it was not an issue of doing it over nioght, usually a month or soo then i would have to readjust, only noticed becasue i could see more squish on one of the rubbers more then the other
seems to be finbe now, wlded it about 2 months ago,
still a quality item though,
opening a shop here soon to do muscle cars and my partner is a truck guy, so probably order a few sets for inventory
glenn z
owner-operator MTR PERFORMANCE ( Muscle, Trucks, and Rods ), high performance and offroad performance
www.mtrperformance.com
FOR SALE........2000 X limited, 7.3 PSD V codes with front add a leaf, 5 inch rear blocks, rear hellwig, rancho rs9000 all 4 corners, landyot radius rods, 305/70/16 rubber, issapro gauges pillar mounted, ccv, tymer, straight piped, added driving lights, headlight covers, vhs entertainment unit,
1939 ford coupe, supercharged 351 cleveland, 33 x 19.5 x 15 mickeys out back, 700 + HP, diamond in the rough
new addition to garage is a 2002 Harley Softail Duece, stage 1 KIt, few extra goodies |
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LANDYOT
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• Subscriber since 11/23/2003 |
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• Newport News, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 7/15/2003 |
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• 1,110 posts |
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Posted:1/22/2005 19:45 |
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I just noticed! Eric was using an impact wrench on his wheels! Ain't that a no-no on these wheels? Rotor warpage and all? I hope that tool was only used during the removal of the wheels. (lol)
Oops! Just spotted something else. It looks like the jack in this photo may be positioned in an unapproved location (under the diff's pumpkin). |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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Posted:1/23/2005 22:46 |
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| Quote: | | I just noticed! Eric was using an impact wrench on his wheels! Ain't that a no-no on these wheels? Rotor warpage and all? I hope that tool was only used during the removal of the wheels. (lol) |
Yep, only used for removal. The torque wrench comes out for re-installation. 
| Quote: | | Oops! Just spotted something else. It looks like the jack in this photo may be positioned in an unapproved location (under the diff's pumpkin). |
I've always jacked up my past/present vehicles this way. Jack it up on the pumpkin and slide the jack stands in under the axle tubes. How do you do it?
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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LANDYOT
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• Subscriber since 11/23/2003 |
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• Newport News, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 7/15/2003 |
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• 1,110 posts |
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Posted:1/25/2005 05:46 |
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| Quote: | | I've always jacked up my past/present vehicles this way. Jack it up on the pumpkin and slide the jack stands in under the axle tubes. How do you do it? |
I've done likewise on other vehicles ... but my other vehicles didn't weigh as much as the X. I jack one side and position a stand, then ditto on the other side. |
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