poormonkey
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• Chicago, IL, USA |
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• Registered on 7/27/2004 |
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• 59 posts |
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 Posted:2/28/2005 08:55 |
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I am getting a very slight steering wheel shake in my front rotors when I push on the brake. I have a 2002, PSD, with 53k on it. I know everyone on the site has recommended ART. I have seen people say they are the best but I will say the price is pretty high on them considering the company will not warranty them after 6 months unless it was a manufacture defect. If you get a warped rotor 12 months last they are saying, sorry. And I have read the 165 ft/lbs of torque information. Where I live in the western burbs of Chicago it is a pain in the butt to do a walk in some where and have my rotors turned. So I started looking around and found a place called. Rotorpros (www.rotorpros.com) On ebay I can pick up a set of four for $240.00 plus $60.00 shipping/handling.
This auction is for TWO FRONT AND TWO REAR ZINC SILVER PLATED
Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors for your:
2000-2003 FORD EXCURSION 4X4 WITH WITH 8 LUGS
Anyone have any feedback? For the money it doesn't seem like a bad price. This is about half the price of a complete set of ART rotors.
2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3L |
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birdman127
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• baltimore, MD, USA |
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• Registered on 10/13/2002 |
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• 581 posts |
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Posted:2/28/2005 17:17 |
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Poor Monkey
Get a good torque wrench and crank the lugs to 165lbs. Every one has luck in correcting the front shimming by this. I am looking into rotors at this time also but I am at 83,000+ on the factory rotors. 
I think I will get slotted only, I have heard drilled and slotted will create stress cracks...and our trucks aren't to light either...
Moderator
Scott
2000 ltd 6.8 V10*4.30LS*
Lots of mods
check my gallery
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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Posted:2/28/2005 18:18 |
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| Quote: | I am getting a very slight steering wheel shake in my front rotors when I push on the brake. I have a 2002, PSD, with 53k on it. I know everyone on the site has recommended ART. I have seen people say they are the best but I will say the price is pretty high on them considering the company will not warranty them after 6 months unless it was a manufacture defect. If you get a warped rotor 12 months last they are saying, sorry. And I have read the 165 ft/lbs of torque information. Where I live in the western burbs of Chicago it is a pain in the butt to do a walk in some where and have my rotors turned. So I started looking around and found a place called. Rotorpros (www.rotorpros.com) On ebay I can pick up a set of four for $240.00 plus $60.00 shipping/handling.
This auction is for TWO FRONT AND TWO REAR ZINC SILVER PLATED
Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors for your:
2000-2003 FORD EXCURSION 4X4 WITH WITH 8 LUGS
Anyone have any feedback? For the money it doesn't seem like a bad price. This is about half the price of a complete set of ART rotors.
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If you become a SuperMotors subscriber you can get instant access to a 10% discount code for ART rotors. That's $78 off of their listed price on their site for front and rear rotors. Granted, you're still at a $700 investment, but it includes brake pads, too.
The ART rotors, while they still can warp, they take a lot longer (they are crogenically treated). However, if you torque lug nuts to 165 ft-lbs, you won't have warping. The ART rotors will also offer improved braking. When I went back to OEM rotors, there was a considerable difference. The rotor pros look like they are OEM rotors that are cross-drilled and slotted. ART's are also OEM, but they go through the cryogenic treatment and are then slotted. They are designed for towing and fullsize vehicle applications.
I am a bit biased because they (ART) are a site sponsor. If you're looking to keep things on the cheap, I would just get the rotors turned at a Tires Plus in your area or someplace that has a lathe that can be used with the rotor still on the vehicle. I would imagine a Precision Tune or any similar chain would be similarly equipped as well. I pulled my own rotors and brought them into Napa and had them turned for $9/ea. $36 is at lot easier to stomach than $300+. There's probably still a lot of life left in yours seeing as how you only have 53k on them. I would get them turned first -- get your money's worth out of 'em.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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Scott Stover
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• Fayetteville, NC, USA |
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• Registered on 4/16/2004 |
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• 354 posts |
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Posted:3/1/2005 19:02 |
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I virtually eliminated the shimmy on my Ex when I re-tourqed the lugs to 165ft lbs....It seems to be the problem most of the time, Im in the ball park of 90K and still the original ones!!
Scott
2000 X 4x4 V-10 4.3 LS
K&N
Gibson Catback
"Custom" Kickplates |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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Posted:3/1/2005 21:00 |
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| Quote: | | I virtually eliminated the shimmy on my Ex when I re-tourqed the lugs to 165ft lbs....It seems to be the problem most of the time, Im in the ball park of 90K and still the original ones!! |
I went to Napa Ceramix brake pads and am on the factory rotors. The factory rotors were warping before the new brake pads, now it's gotten much worse. I have always had the lug nuts torqued to 165 ft-lbs, but it doesn't seem like they will be fixing themselves anytime soon. I think "your mileage may vary" depending on what your brake pad combination is as well.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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Hawkeyes
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• St. Paul, MN, USA |
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• Registered on 12/3/2004 |
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• 43 posts |
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Posted:3/2/2005 01:55 |
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[/quote]I went to Napa Ceramix brake pads and am on the factory rotors. The factory rotors were warping before the new brake pads, now it's gotten much worse. I have always had the lug nuts torqued to 165 ft-lbs, but it doesn't seem like they will be fixing themselves anytime soon. I think "your mileage may vary" depending on what your brake pad combination is as well.[/quote]
Eric,
Why did you go back to factory rotors? I thought you bought a set of ART's? Was the choice to use OEM made for any specific reason? FWIW, I've got new everything, including calipers & special treatment to pad 'tabs' , drilled & slotted rotors, PF Z-pads, the works & I STILL get an occasional 'shimmy' when coming to a stop (easing up & then applying pedal seems to help), along with a 'pull to left OR right depending on where Big Red smells fresh fuel oil that day.  However, during a drive to Milwaukee and back last week, the brakes were perfect. It's only around town and NEVER when the brakes are cold.
Seriously, I think there is a design issue with these brake systems. A friend had a 98 or 99 F250 that I drove from time to time towing 4 wheelers & hunting gear to Montana. His exhibited these exact same characteristics that his dealer felt were 'unrepairable'.
I was curious to see if the ceramic pads would be a benefit, but apparently not, eh? 
Hawkeyes
Hawkeyes |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1
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Posted:3/2/2005 11:49 |
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| Quote: | | Why did you go back to factory rotors? I thought you bought a set of ART's? Was the choice to use OEM made for any specific reason? FWIW, I've got new everything, including calipers & special treatment to pad 'tabs' , drilled & slotted rotors, PF Z-pads, the works & I STILL get an occasional 'shimmy' when coming to a stop (easing up & then applying pedal seems to help), along with a 'pull to left OR right depending on where Big Red smells fresh fuel oil that day. However, during a drive to Milwaukee and back last week, the brakes were perfect. It's only around town and NEVER when the brakes are cold. |
I'm back on the factory rotors because my ART's became warped and I haven't had them turned yet. Tires Plus couldn't turn them with their vehicle lathe, so I took the factory rotors to Napa and had them turned for $9/ea and slapped them back on. Smooth braking...for a while. Even at 165 ft-lbs, the factories are still warping for me.
I've noticed that whenever it's wet (i.e. in the rain) I don't get the pulsating brakes. I'll tell you one thing, I'm so used to it now that when I do have a set of freshly turned rotors on the thing, it feels weird to NOT have any brake pulsating. I'm always afraid to romp on the pedal out of fear that it will cause warping.
| Quote: | | Seriously, I think there is a design issue with these brake systems. A friend had a 98 or 99 F250 that I drove from time to time towing 4 wheelers & hunting gear to Montana. His exhibited these exact same characteristics that his dealer felt were 'unrepairable'. |
A friend of mine has a 2000 F350 and towed a 5th wheel trailer with a mud truck on it. It's a heavy load. He also plows, has a lift kit on it and 35" BFG all terrains. Beats the piss out of that truck but no brake problems. My brother-in-law has a '99 F250 and pulls a gooseneck trailer for his horses...no brake problems there either. I can't say I've run across these types of brake problems on the SuperDuties...just the Excursions.
| Quote: | | I was curious to see if the ceramic pads would be a benefit, but apparently not, eh? |
They do provide much better stopping than the old pads I had on there. I'm looking forward to getting the ART's back on with the ceramic pads. I expect good things. Just need the time to do this stuff. Swapping rotors every couple of weekends is not something I enjoy doing this often!!
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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SZAlbNM
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• Albuquerque, NM, USA |
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• Registered on 6/22/2005 |
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• 13 posts |
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Posted:6/22/2005 09:04 |
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poormonkey, What did you end up doing? I'm also considering rotorpros. |
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Hawkeyes
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• St. Paul, MN, USA |
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• Registered on 12/3/2004 |
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• 43 posts |
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Posted:6/27/2005 18:48 |
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I used the SP Performance cross drilled & slotted rotor (description):
http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml
This appears to be a high quality rotor, great finish work, nicely packaged, clean, etc. I purchased front & rear sets, with PF-Z pads for $592 from National Fleet Parts. This is for a 2000, 4x4, PSD Excursion.
I also installed reman calipers from Fenco (Canadian) for about $50 per wheel. I looked at the cheapo Cardone, Fenco & OEM. OEM were nicest, but expensive!! Fenco were next best, machining & quality were excellent, just didn't have the nice OEM finish.
Later had to grind & polish the steel "tabs" on the brake pads so they moved easily in the caliper slipper. I also bought all new caliper pins from Ford dealer.
I have no warping in 10,000 miles, powerful stopping power. Initially, the X would pull a bit to the right or left, seemed to have no consistent pattern. After grinding the tabs down, the problem went away. The tabs were binding & causing uneven application of the braking force.
I admit to a very slight pulsation when coming to a complete stop, but releasing the pedal slightly and then hitting it again makes it go away. The PF pads still look new.
FWIW...
Hawkeyes |
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