Godfather
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• Sea Cliff, Long Island, NY, USA |
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• Registered on 4/13/2003 |
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• 53 posts |
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 Posted:6/17/2005 01:18 |
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I can't believe my last post was so long ago!! Here's how my "Road Whore" has fared, now that it's rolled 149 1/2K :
1. Ford replaced (and charged for, those dirtbags) alternator ay 70K.
2. Fuel filter was changed every 30K or so.
3. Original Steeltexs were replaced FREE by Firestone at 105K- only one front was cupped. The other 3 had at least 40kK left in them BUT, it was a freebie. #2 tire set is still like new. ( 70PSI all around)
4. I drained the tranny pan at 96K but still haven't done the filter!! Can you believe how the cross member covers the rear bolts????
5. Air filter was changed every 40k until at 135k the light came on (yeah it was dirty) and I installed a K&N in the stock box. Next I'll take the dremel and cut out most of the snorkel and open up the box with holes- NO mileage or power difference AT ALL with K&N- big disappointment!!
6. Every 2 or 3 tanks I throw in a gallon of ATF or 4 gallons of regular gas which cleans things up. The gasoline cured the 1/2 engine rough start I used to get.
7. Fuel mileage has stayed constant- 19 to sometimes 21 solo hwy (calculated by hand, not read off display) and 15 or so around town. With the 3500 lb flat front car trailer (9 feet tall) it stays at a wallet sucking 12mpg- ouch!!
8. I always used Pennzoil 15-40 diesel and Penske/Kmart filters (.99 cents at closeout- I have 50!)
and changed oil between 7 to 9k. It used a quart around every 2K . At 135K when I switched to Mobil One 15-40 and a quart lasts around 3 1/2K.
What do you think about this: When I do the Mobil One oil change (10 to 12 k with filter change again at 5K) the oil is still clear. I run the oil through a clean tshirt and dump it into the fuel tank. The engine runs exactly the same, I'm lubing the system and I don't have to find a place to take 15 quarts
for recycle. The motor loves it !!
EVERYTHING ELSE IS ORIGINAL!! Yes, the brakes have never been changed, the rotors do pulse a bit, the shocks are a little bouncy but at 150K I'm gonna' give the X a real treat. It's getting:
1. NEW antifreeze- it came with the Gold stuff and never used a drop. Any recc's for refill???
2. New serpentine belt, top hose that goes around belt and bottom hoses.
3. Tranny filter (finally) and fluid- I'm gonna' cut open & check out filter "catchings".
4. All four rotors and pads- why cut 'em, they went 150K. Are the ARTs the way to go???
5. Cut out the air snorkel and box and maybe a new stainless exhaust- any recc's????
6. Mobil One 75-90 in both diffs and ATF change for transfer case.
7. 4 new shocks. Are Ranchos still the way to go??
8. Maybe a gauge pod if I have any money left.
All totaled, NOT BAD for 150K of virtually trouble-free travel. The tranny shifts fine and I never drive hard but I gotta' start a transmission IRA-Keogh fund! How long do "youse' guys" think it'll go??
Any suggestions for the 150k renewal?? What else should i check/change/modify???
I have to say a big THANK YOU to all of the SFO members and your help and support. I plan to run this monster to 400K !!!! Maybe fry oil fuel is next???
Best regards/Ciao,
Godfather- back in New York |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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 Posted:6/17/2005 08:03 |
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Greg, welcome back.
4.) Brake rotors/pads - Yes, I'd go with the ART rotors. Become a SuperMotors subscriber and get an extra 10% off of the rotors.
5.) Air filter - You may consider an aftermarket airbox replacement from AFE or a similar manufacturer. Dieselsite sells these.
7.) Shocks - Ranchos are great, so are Edelbrocks and Bilsteins. I run Rancho RS9000's. They make an RS9000x with up to 9 different settings. I'm at 146K miles and will be swapping shocks at 200K but am not sure if I'll stay with Rancho or try something different.
I cannot believe that your transmission still operates. I hope my trans (now on my 2nd) lasts for 150K. If mine does die, I'll probably spring for a Factory Tech Transmission. I'm installing one of their valve bodies next weekend. We (SuperMotors) are going to be providing discounts on Factory Tech products as well (hopefully will have the details listed on the discounts page by the end of the month. Again, you'll need to be a SuperMotors subscriber to take advantage of the discounts.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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ExcursionPSD
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• Milwaukee, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 9/16/2004 |
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• 27 posts |
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Posted:7/14/2005 02:19 |
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| Quote: | I can't believe my last post was so long ago!! Here's how my "Road Whore" has fared, now that it's rolled 149 1/2K :
...
6. Every 2 or 3 tanks I throw in a gallon of ATF or 4 gallons of regular gas which cleans things up. The gasoline cured the 1/2 engine rough start I used to get.
...
What do you think about this: When I do the Mobil One oil change (10 to 12 k with filter change again at 5K) the oil is still clear. I run the oil through a clean tshirt and dump it into the fuel tank. The engine runs exactly the same, I'm lubing the system and I don't have to find a place to take 15 quarts
for recycle. The motor loves it !!
...
Best regards/Ciao,
Godfather- back in New York |
Have any of you folks heard about putting a gallon of ATF or 4 gallons of gasoline or 15 quarts of synthetic engine oil into the diesel fuel tank?
I would be REAL concerned about the non-lubricating affects of the ATF and especially 4 gallons of gasoline. I have no doubt what Ford or most any other manufacturer would say!
2000 Excursion Limited born 11/99 4x4 Toreador Red ext./gray int. 7.3PSD, 3.73LS, Skidplates, Pwr/Htd TeleMirrors, 6CDchanger, HtdBuckets, LT265/75R16E Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo, Ford Wraparound deflector, PSDV8 badging, RoofMarkerLights, Tekonsha Sentinel brake cntrlr, PCM=AXD0, WD 65hp chip, WalkerBigTruck Muffler, RS9000, Performance Friction 2 piece rotors/pads, Sylvania SilverStars, Landyot Gen III, Amsoil from MAXoil.com in diffs/trans/transfer 199k miles. |
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Godfather
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• Sea Cliff, Long Island, NY, USA |
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• Registered on 4/13/2003 |
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• 53 posts |
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Posted:7/15/2005 22:08 |
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I appreciate your concern PSD !!! I've been doin' the diesel thing for quite a while and got my first oil burner '81 VW Diesel Rabbit in "91 (for $100 with 100K). I still have my baby diesel today with 227k and flew to West Palm Beach to drive it back to NY, last month and averaged 42 mpg on the same injectors from '91. Since it's been so "good", it's gonna' get new injectors and the first valve adjustment since I owned it !!!!!
VW, in their manual, recommends cutting the diesel with 10% regular gas in extreme cold so it'll flow better. Here's the weird thing about adding ATF, new or clean used motor oil or gasoline to my big diesel PSD 7.3 or baby diesel VW 1.6- the mileage and drivability are not degraded in the least!!
Now, there's an exception! If I add heating kerosene which is hard to find but sometimes cheaper than #2, the mileage drops and so does the perceived power. When I had 3 VW Rabbits and owned my house (pre-divorce) I used to run them all on home heating oil. I did it for years and it cost 1/2 of what diesel did (early 90s)!! They ran great BUT, the heating oil was dyed blue #2 diesel so, except for the potential DOT problem, it saved me tons o' money.
Here's a couple more diesel goodies- ATF is full of detergents and it, and ol' faithful Marvel Mystery Oil, are old school diesel guys enema/tonic for cleaning up dirty injectors. I like the gasoline better, for cleaning up the system but still throw in ATF/oil for lubrication.
The "top shelf" additive is definitely Stanadyne but it's Johnny Walker Blue (delicious!!) priced,
compared to my choices.
Yeah I know what Ford would say but remember, here's the deal with Dr. Rudolfs miracle motors- they're designed to run on oil, aren't really picky about what type, most are built like a railroad/tank engine. When you add the efficiency of the turbo, they're are even less picky!! Weird, isn't it??
The Germans even had diesel powered AIRPLANES in the 20s and 30s !!!!! Why?- looonnggg range and efficiency!!!
VW Diesels are a blast and are EZ to repair and parts are cheap. If ya' can find a decent unrusted ealy (pre-85) Rabbit (especially the coooooool pickup truck) or Jetta for a decent price definitely consider it !!! It's great to have a PSD that gets 21 mpg hwy BUT, it's even better to get 45 to mid 60 mpg with a properly tuned VW, especially at $ 2.65 a gallon !!!
Ciao, Godfather / Greg  |
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ExcursionPSD
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• Milwaukee, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 9/16/2004 |
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• 27 posts |
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Posted:7/16/2005 02:06 |
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Thanks for the complete and thorough reply. I am not concerned about the pistons or rings or valves, so much as the HEUI injectors on our Powerstrokes.
I am not familiar with the VW diesels, but I know many of the older diesels have nothing more complicated than a nozzle with a check valve to control dribbling.and hold pressure in preparation for the next injection cycle. I don't imagine that this style is very sensitive to the lubricating qualities of the fuel.
The very high pressures that our injectors work under and the tight tolerances in the tiny little hydraulically powered pump within our injectors makes me worry about the lack of lubrication.
Many modern diesels with similar injection systems, specifically warn against using kerosene or gasoline as fuel additives in cold weather, because of the reduced lubrication.
I do thank you very much for sharing your experience and knowledge.
2000 Excursion Limited born 11/99 4x4 Toreador Red ext./gray int. 7.3PSD, 3.73LS, Skidplates, Pwr/Htd TeleMirrors, 6CDchanger, HtdBuckets, LT265/75R16E Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo, Ford Wraparound deflector, PSDV8 badging, RoofMarkerLights, Tekonsha Sentinel brake cntrlr, PCM=AXD0, WD 65hp chip, WalkerBigTruck Muffler, RS9000, Performance Friction 2 piece rotors/pads, Sylvania SilverStars, Landyot Gen III, Amsoil from MAXoil.com in diffs/trans/transfer 199k miles. |
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Chuck Barlow
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• Salem, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 5/19/2002 |
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• 3 posts |
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Posted:7/27/2005 18:57 |
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Hey Me too- I have not post in a long time.
Concerning gasoline in your diesel tank: I have heard comments on diesel fuel quality or the lack of, related to mixing gasoline in the diesel fuel during the pipline transport. As the story goes: the same massive pipe is used to transfer diesel and differing grades of gasoline. When the transport changes from gasoline to diesel there is a portion of the fuel that is mixed with gasoilne before it becomes good diesel.
I heard that some mixed fuel is sent to lower priced stations and the good stuff is sent to the main stations.
Don't know it is true but from my experience buying fuel for the past 50,000 miles, there sure is a lack of consistancey station to station- state to state. For instance engine noise, performance, and mileage is all affected accross the spectrum of fuel sources I have found.
So a little gas may be ok just not sure. If you get that tank of already mixed diesel then adding more gas might push the engine over the top! |
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ExcursionPSD
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• Milwaukee, WI, USA |
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• Registered on 9/16/2004 |
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• 27 posts |
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Posted:7/28/2005 02:49 |
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They normally use a separator, like a giant basketball to separate products as they go thru pipelines. There is some leakage past the separator, but it is not significant.
Also the pipelines feed into giant storage tanks, they don't go directly into a tank truck, so you would not get a mixture of products going into a tank truck.
2000 Excursion Limited born 11/99 4x4 Toreador Red ext./gray int. 7.3PSD, 3.73LS, Skidplates, Pwr/Htd TeleMirrors, 6CDchanger, HtdBuckets, LT265/75R16E Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo, Ford Wraparound deflector, PSDV8 badging, RoofMarkerLights, Tekonsha Sentinel brake cntrlr, PCM=AXD0, WD 65hp chip, WalkerBigTruck Muffler, RS9000, Performance Friction 2 piece rotors/pads, Sylvania SilverStars, Landyot Gen III, Amsoil from MAXoil.com in diffs/trans/transfer 199k miles. |
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Douglas Dircks
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• New Richland, MN, USA |
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• Registered on 11/13/2003 |
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• 118 posts |
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Posted:8/19/2005 08:42 |
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Here's what has been done to the 00 X purchased about two years ago with 104K now has 146K.
114K CPS $100
124K CPS warrantied
135K head light switch $25
140K rotors and pads $200
141K four door lock actuators $240
142K alternator $190
The oil gets changed ever 5-7K with Rotella T and I've never checked the tranny dip stick (original tranny). Just got back from a 800 mile trip with only gear in the X and got 19 mpg hand calculated.
Now for the 99 F250 purchased four years ago 40K now has 198K,
55K turbo replaced under warranty $100
80K driver side window motor $85
83K tranny died due to chip $2,000
123K torque convertor replaced due to sever heat going up a mountain 9 quarts lost $950
150K ball joints, rotors, callipers, seals, Warn lock outs, $1,350
155K rear leafs replaced (Firestone air bags installed) $280 for the leafs
180K mirror controll replaced $30
185K wire burnt near valve cover, CPS, intake relay, intake heater probe, GPR replaced $600
190K driver side hub assembly removed and needle bearing re-greased $5
197K alternator $170
00 Excursion Limited 4x4 PSD 265/75/16 Ravo's Centerline rims Python 871XP
99 F250 x-cab short bed XLT 4x4 PSD 295/75/16 American Racing rims Viper 550 ESP stainless steel MAAP nerf bars Putco four piece grill inserts bumper poles and mud flaps air bags triple pillar pod Autometer Ultra Light fiberglass tannue cover and topper programmed pcm pulling 22 psi
99 F350 crew cab long bed drw Lariat 4x4 PSD 255/85/16 Python 871XP AIS fold down fifth wheel ball |
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