bigfoot567
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• Fort Worth, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 3/18/2005 |
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• 55 posts |
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 Posted:6/28/2005 12:16 |
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I'm curious about the ins and outs of installing sound mat material in the big Ol' X with a PSD.
I'm looking at something like dynamat but a little cheaper, called B-quiet.
Do you recommend the full floorboard from tailgate to up the firewall, and the doors too? Or will I see a very noticeable imnprovement with only doors and floors back to the third seat? And does the sound mat simply go right beneath the door panels on the face of the door, or do I need to plan on running some inside the door cavity as well?
I'm not trying to block out 100% of the powerstroke and road noise, but just make it alot quieter without spending $500+ on materials, not to mention having to gut the entire cabin finishes.
Any info is greatly appreciated..!!
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JohnBoy
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• DFW, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 9/3/2002 |
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• 972 posts |
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Posted:6/28/2005 15:06 |
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Bill - I have the same questions...
am interested in this too for my 03....
let's get together when you find out how to do it and I'll help...
We can practice on yours and then do it right on mine 
2005 6.0L 4x4 Eddie Bauer Ex
2003 6.0L 4x4 Limited Ex - traded in (BooHoo )
"The Republicans should back off and let men marry men, women marry women, and legalize abortion. In three generations there would be no Democrats." |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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bigfoot567
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• Fort Worth, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 3/18/2005 |
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• 55 posts |
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Posted:6/28/2005 22:35 |
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Okay johboy...git'r dun....and I'll take all the digipics for posting on this site. My backs a bit sore lately so you'll have to be the guinea pig.
seriously, I've been thinking ( rare occurance ), and as the cost to do an X from firewall to tailgate and the doors even with the "b-quiet" priced material should cost at least $500-600 in material alone (although I haven't put a measuring tape on it).
I shelled out $10 bucks for sample pcs of the various 5 or 60 different types of material they make and sell and I figured I can get a 60 mil, "peel and stick" black heavy bodied bituthane rubber membrane product ( no foil backing tho) for a fraction of this cost in a 48" wide roll , not sure of the length, but I bet one roll would do a whole X. Hell could get a little extra and double layer it if needed.
This product is a waterproofing membrane product used on wood framed construction to go down prior to lightweight concret upper floor fill...for balconies,etc. very elastic and pliable...seems like it would do fine to deaden the sound.
I'll round up a roll from my supplier and let you guys know about the cost if interested.
Ol' Willy |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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Posted:6/29/2005 00:03 |
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Man, that's a lot of big words to describe a sound deadening product.
I've installed dynomat in a previous vehicle. I went with their extra-thin stuff (whatever it's called) and it came in the 48" roll. I used the dynomat on the doors and roof of the cab. I also used extra padding under the carpet, a spray-on sound deadener in the bed, and the foil-covered sound deadening material for the side panels in the bed (this was in my Bronco):
If you anticipate removing the sound deadening material in the future, then I would advise against the spray-on liner. The guy I sold the Bronco to asked what the material was because he said it was next to impossible to strip clean. Sucker! 
You have any plans for using sound deadening material on the roof of the X?
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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Hawkeyes
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• St. Paul, MN, USA |
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• Registered on 12/3/2004 |
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• 43 posts |
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Posted:6/29/2005 07:57 |
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I just completed this project last month. Used 3 products from Cascade:
VB-2 (4 sheets) for the doors, both inner & outer skins. This is a thin black material with a sticky back. It sticks on, then you heat it witha blow dryer & press into shape. The X door panels come off real easy, takes about 40 minutes per door to apply. You use the door pane as a template. Cascade describes V-Blok as follows...Vblok VB-2 is a flexible, odorless and lightweight mineral filled vinyl-copolymer formulated to handle the demanding extremes of aircraft vibration and noise control. It has twice the damping and less than half the weight of asphalt damping materials and the ability to handle continuous temperatures to 250 degrees.
VB-3.5 (2 sheets) for the front section of the floor, trans tunnel & firewall. This is a thin dense foam with a sheet of lead sandwiched inside. It bends & conforms easily to the contours of your vehicle. When you have to cut sections, they are taped together using strips of the V-Block.. Cascades description...Vblok Barrier VB-3.5 is a multilayered composite material, which provides a shock absorbing, noise penetration barrier and thermal insulation. The isolation layer is constructed of a closed cell reinforced neoprene which decouples the floating lead septum from the vibrating source structure (floorboards etc.).
VB-4.5 (3 rolls) for the passenger floor section back to the rear doors. This is a thick dense foam rubber with a vinyl sheet on one side. It's less expensive than the VB3.5 and works nearly as well. You just cut it and lay it down like a carpet pad. Cascades description...Vblok Barrier VB-4.5 is a composite material with a flexible, loaded vinyl mass barrier, and a foam decoupling layer which reduces road noise by impeding the passage of soundwaves.
I did the front doors first, just to see if there was a noticeable difference, then decided to do everything. Doors were pretty easy, just cut, stick on & heat/press.
To do the remainder required pulling the interior. I started by removing all three seats, pretty easy with the right tools. Then I removed the carpet, door panels, and cargo area panels.
The firewall, trans tunnel & front floors were harder to work on than the doors. Had to cut and mold VB-3.5 to shape, then 'tape' seams with VB-2, then heat & press together. The firewall area is pretty tough 'cuz you have to shape the sound deadener around all the rods, pedals, wire bundles, extrusions, etc.
The VB-4.5 was easy - just cut to size & lay it down.
The result is a major, noticeable difference in interior sound. You can converse in a whisper, engine & road noise are remarkably reduced. Did you know there is a unique sound made by the X's directional flasher? Have you ever heard the actuator door move when switching from heater to defrost on-the-fly?
I spent about $600 for materials, ordered from internet suppliers. There is another product out there called FatMat that you may want to investigate. I think it's a bit cheaper.
Definitely a worthwhile investment if you have the patience & plan to keep your X for awhile.
Hawkeyes |
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JohnBoy
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• DFW, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 9/3/2002 |
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• 972 posts |
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Posted:6/29/2005 12:32 |
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Dang !
Stop encouraging me !!!
It's too hot to work on it now here in DFW 
and still have to do the a/c line insulation
2005 6.0L 4x4 Eddie Bauer Ex
2003 6.0L 4x4 Limited Ex - traded in (BooHoo)
"The Republicans should back off and let men marry men, women marry women, and legalize abortion. In three generations there would be no Democrats." |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1
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Hawkeyes
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• St. Paul, MN, USA |
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• Registered on 12/3/2004 |
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• 43 posts |
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Posted:6/29/2005 21:22 |
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Heheheheheh......
Hawkeyes |
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JohnBoy
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• DFW, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 9/3/2002 |
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• 972 posts |
• 2
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 Posted:6/29/2005 22:16 |
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You ARE BAD !!!!
I promise, Hillbilly did NOT originate in Texus
Now Big Hair and fake er, ah ... inserts....
they did 
2005 6.0L 4x4 Eddie Bauer Ex
2003 6.0L 4x4 Limited Ex - traded in (BooHoo)
"The Republicans should back off and let men marry men, women marry women, and legalize abortion. In three generations there would be no Democrats." |
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