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Ball joints too tight??
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Thekid
• Loveland, CO, USA
• Registered on 5/26/2005
• 67 posts
Posted:9/26/2005 10:55
Ok, got new tires put on last weekend (Bridgestone Dueler Revo)....best tires I've ever seen!! Also put new shocks on and had the X aligned.

While at the alignment shop the guy said the ball joints were "too tight" preventing it from returning to center. The ball joints are new (within 5000 miles) and are the greasable type and greased regularly. He did align the vehicle, but recommended fixing the ball joint situation. He also commented that everything else in the front-end looked very good and wasn't trying to sell my anything else.

So, my question is how to fix this? Need some instructions on what to do since I wasn't willing to pay him $300 to do it for me. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
LANDYOT  
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Subscriber since 11/23/2003
• Newport News, VA, USA
• Registered on 7/15/2003
• 1,110 posts
Posted:9/26/2005 19:22
I'm more than curious just how this guy came to the conclusion that a ball joint was too tight. I mean, think about it some. Unless he removed the ball joint (highly unlikely) and tried articulating it in his hand, how exactly could he "feel" how tight the joint was? If all the suspension and steering underpinnings were all connected, and he tried turning the front wheels by hand, couldn't the entire steering linkage be "too tight"? Considering the alternative, that sounds good to me.

Now on the other hand, if the ball joints were loose, you can actually feel that movement by tilting the front wheel while holding it at 6 and 12 o'clock. Holding it at 3 and 9 o'clock would reveal worn rod-ends if they were loose. Too tight? Methinks the only thing he wanted to loosen was the $$$ from your wallet.
E. Long  
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Subscriber since 1/1/2001
• Atlanta, GA, USA
• Registered on 1/23/2001
• 2,229 posts
1
Posted:9/26/2005 23:17
I'm with Landyot. I'm not sure how ball joints can prevent it from returning to center. Please take a look at this video I took when I replaced my ball joints:

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=248344

It demonstrates how bad ball joints operate while installed (first part of video demonstrates the obvious "play" of the especially worn lower ball joint). This "play" causes steering problems as it never seems to want to drive in a straight line. The 2nd part of the video shows the old ball joint (removed) and how loose it is compared to a new ball joint and how stiff it is. The stiffness is perfectly normal and exactly how a ball joint should operate. Over time, the bearings get worn, and you will experience the "play."

Your issue is most likely related to some other part of the front end being too tight.

-Eric

'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going
Scott Stover
• Fayetteville, NC, USA
• Registered on 4/16/2004
• 354 posts
1
Posted:9/27/2005 19:56
Eric-are ball joints something I can do in my garage?? I think they are the press in type, but if I can get everything off and take the hubs to get them pressed in-would that be a better avenue to take cost wise??

Scott
2000 X 4x4 V-10 4.3 LS
K&N
Gibson Catback
"Custom" Kickplates
E. Long  
Subscriber
Subscriber since 1/1/2001
• Atlanta, GA, USA
• Registered on 1/23/2001
• 2,229 posts
1
Posted:9/27/2005 21:12
Quote:
Eric-are ball joints something I can do in my garage?? I think they are the press in type, but if I can get everything off and take the hubs to get them pressed in-would that be a better avenue to take cost wise??


Scott,

I took video and documented the entire ball joint installation that I did in my garage. I actually did it earlier this year but just haven't gotten around to editing together the video.

It is definitely something that can be done in your garage. The only part of it, where you reseat the axle seals, could be done by a dealership or a machine shop with a press. I did my ball joints on a Sunday so nothing was open, and I did one hell of a jerry-rigging setup to get the seals seated. It worked, but added a lot of time to the project. Just something that can easily planned ahead for.

When I'm done editing together the video and create the install article, you'll be able to see exactly how to do the entire project at home in your garage and what tools are needed.

On a side note, I video taped a brake rotor and pad install this weekend which I also plan to edit and revise the existing brake install article. My alternator just went out yesterday and I will document that as well.

Scott, are you ball joints on their way out? Or were you just wondering for the future? I can post a rough version of the video as I edit it to give you an idea of what's all involved. Just give me a heads up.

-Eric

'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going
Thekid
• Loveland, CO, USA
• Registered on 5/26/2005
• 67 posts
Posted:9/28/2005 14:00
Well, took it to a commercial alignment shop to a guy that has my father's trust.

His diagnosis:
- Everything on the lower steering is absolutely fine. Ball joints, tie rods, drag links, etc.
- Caster, camber and toe are all properly set. He even tried different caster settings to see how it would react.
- He even backed the adjustment screw OUT a full turn on the steering box. This helped with the centering slightly, but it still won't completely center itself.

His ideas:
A. The steering box is damaged and needs to be replaced. He was relunctant to do this because of the price, but is his only thought.
B. Possibly the steering shaft or column are damaged, but are even further long shots in his mind.

So now I still have a mystery on hands. The X drives very well, but the steering won't center and you have to "stay on top" of the wheel when driving down the highway. I have put new tires, wheels, shocks, stabilizer on.

What do I do next? Rear swaybar, radius rods, something else????
LANDYOT  
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Subscriber since 11/23/2003
• Newport News, VA, USA
• Registered on 7/15/2003
• 1,110 posts
Posted:9/28/2005 14:54
As much as I'd like for you to get a set of radius-rods, I don't believe that's your problem. Self-centering is dependent totally upon caster angle. The more upright the caster, the more skittish the steering becomes, and less likely to self-center. The more laid-back camber angle will cause the front wheels to self-center from the vehicle's weight.
E. Long  
Subscriber
Subscriber since 1/1/2001
• Atlanta, GA, USA
• Registered on 1/23/2001
• 2,229 posts
1
Posted:9/28/2005 21:54
Other members have reported replacing their steering box due to wear. Based on your mechanic's diagnosis and other members problems with the steering box, this would be the best path to go down. What was the cost on the new steering box?

-Eric

'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going
Thekid
• Loveland, CO, USA
• Registered on 5/26/2005
• 67 posts
Posted:9/29/2005 08:26
Replacement cost for a stock box was about $350. I'm wondering if there is an aftermarket steering box that maybe better for similar or less cost.

This is something I'm going to check into now and see what I can come up with. If anyone has been down this path already please lend your expertise.
Scott Stover
• Fayetteville, NC, USA
• Registered on 4/16/2004
• 354 posts
1
Posted:9/29/2005 20:28
Quote:
Quote:
Eric-are ball joints something I can do in my garage?? I think they are the press in type, but if I can get everything off and take the hubs to get them pressed in-would that be a better avenue to take cost wise??


Scott, are you ball joints on their way out? Or were you just wondering for the future? I can post a rough version of the video as I edit it to give you an idea of what's all involved. Just give me a heads up.


Hey Eric,

Thanks for the response, I was basically lookin at the future, but I know my tie rod ends, and draglink ends need replaced, I dont think its had an aligment its entire life, but I am going to check the ball joints next oil change. If dont want to put the video out in public hit me via email in my profile. I am a definate DIY guy so if I can save some coin doin it myself then I will. But I would definately like to see the video....

Thanks for the help Eric!! I appriciate it!

Scott
2000 X 4x4 V-10 4.3 LS
K&N
Gibson Catback
"Custom" Kickplates
Ford Excursion Forums > Ford Excursion V8, V10, and Powerstroke > Excursion Discussion
Ball joints too tight??
Thread Statistics:     Users to Post: 5   |   Total Posts: 12   |   Total Views: 6597
You must be logged in to post in or subscribe to this thread.Pages: 1 2