FordExcursions.com Forums
SZAlbNM
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• Albuquerque, NM, USA |
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• Registered on 6/22/2005 |
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• 13 posts |
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 Posted:11/1/2005 21:10 |
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Both of my hublocks spit the outer o-ring when I turned the knob to "lock". I have purchased from the dealer two of the yellow inner o-rings and 2 kits which include the retaining ring and 2 black o-rings. Are there any secrets or caveats to taking them apart and cleaning, lubing and reassembling? I have a factory chassis manual, but it only describes how to R & R the assembly, but not how to take it apart. Can I just use a synthetic moly grease? Any help or tips would be appreciated. Thanks. |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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Posted:11/2/2005 00:00 |
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| Quote: | | Both of my hublocks spit the outer o-ring when I turned the knob to "lock". I have purchased from the dealer two of the yellow inner o-rings and 2 kits which include the retaining ring and 2 black o-rings. Are there any secrets or caveats to taking them apart and cleaning, lubing and reassembling? I have a factory chassis manual, but it only describes how to R & R the assembly, but not how to take it apart. Can I just use a synthetic moly grease? Any help or tips would be appreciated. Thanks. |
I'm not familiar with the black o-rings you're referring to. The yellow o-rings are the ones susceptible to going bad and leaking...these are an easy fix:
1.) Remove the c-clip (with a needle nose pliers) holding the hub in place
2.) Using a small piece of wood (i.e. 2x4), Hit all sides of the hub with the 2x4 (use a hammer if necessary) to break the hub loose while pulling towards you. It will take a few minutes but will eventually break free and pull right out.
3.) The yellow o-ring is on the outside of the hub. Simply remove the old one, lube the new one with grease, and replace it.
What do the black o-rings look like? If it is for inside the hub itself, then I'm not sure how this is done. I haven't taken these hubs apart (I believe they are sealed and if bad, you replace the whole thing).
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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SZAlbNM
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• Albuquerque, NM, USA |
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• Registered on 6/22/2005 |
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• 13 posts |
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Posted:11/2/2005 07:55 |
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Thanks Eric
The knob that you turn to move from auto to lock is sealed with a black o-ring. This is the one that I need to replace. I assume that to get to it I have to disassemble the whole hub mechanism, then reassemble, relube and reinstall. This is the process that I need help with. I sure hope I don't have to replace a $300.00 hub for a 30 cent o-ring! |
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
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Posted:11/2/2005 12:01 |
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| Quote: | Thanks Eric
The knob that you turn to move from auto to lock is sealed with a black o-ring. This is the one that I need to replace. I assume that to get to it I have to disassemble the whole hub mechanism, then reassemble, relube and reinstall. This is the process that I need help with. I sure hope I don't have to replace a $300.00 hub for a 30 cent o-ring! |
I've disassembled hubs before but not these. I thought they were sealed. From what I remember in looking at them, there are no obvious ways to disassemble.
How did you determine that the black o-ring is bad? Inability to manually turn the hubs? Do they still auto-engage? I can't turn mine, but they will automatically engage. As long as they continue to do that, I'm keeping them in there until they cease functioning 100%. Then I'll drop the $300 on new hubs.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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birdman127
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• baltimore, MD, USA |
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• Registered on 10/13/2002 |
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• 581 posts |
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Posted:11/2/2005 15:48 |
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I am pretty sure there is a snap ring on the back of the hub. I just replaced all my ball joints and was giving everything a good once over.
Moderator
Scott
2000 ltd 6.8 V10*4.30LS*
Lots of mods
check my gallery
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Stang_hauler
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• Indianapolis, IN, USA |
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• Registered on 7/21/2004 |
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• 14 posts |
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Posted:11/2/2005 20:26 |
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SZAlbnm,
I do not think you can dissasemble the factory hubs and replace the outer o ring without permantly damaging the whole assembly. The believe o ring in the kit you have is the o ring that seals the "back" of the hub assembly.
I had the same problem you described so I decided to try and take apart the hub ( I can't help it, I'm a mechanical engineer; taking stuff apart is in my blood).It's been a while since i did this so my description may not be dead on. Also I apoligize for the winded explaination and run-on sentances in advance.
The c clip on the "back" of the hub holds in a spring loaded assembly that slides up and down to engage/ disengage the wheel assembly to the drive shaft. The assembly has 3? main parts, an inner gear, outer gear and 2 piece plastic bobbin type thing ( I have no idea what it's called). Part of the plastic bobbin seems to be permanently attached (glued maybe?) to a rubber diaphram that seals the "bottom" of the hub from the auto/lock handle. The diaphram does not look like it can be removed without ripping it. If you did rip it then the whole assembly would be junk because you would no longer be able to hold the vaccuum needed to actuate it. The vacuum pulls in the bobbin which pushes on and engages the inner and outer gears which then engages the front wheels to the drive shafts (whew) 
This is where I stopped taking it apart because I chickened out. I suspect that you would have to remove the diaphram to get access to the back of the auto/lock selector handle to remove it and then replace the o ring.
hope this helps.
Rich.
2000 limited PSD X
Mile Marker hubs
Helliwig rear sway |
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