My eBay order arrived today. I got these from ctrusa for ~$170 total delivered. Later, I plan to order a HID conversion kit with 4300K bulbs & slim ballasts.
Low Beam - H7
Hi Beam - H1

All of my trucks' lights came from this seller: black https://www.ebay.com/itm/273562204627 ; chrome https://www.ebay.com/itm/274382325575
Other eBay sellers with good prices on these headlights include:
imotorsportoutlet
eaglemotorsport
ada = ctrusa

Oooooooooohhhh... And they're even DOT-legal!!!

But they're going right back in the box until the truck is built with the '93 body.

I got these from ctrusa for ~$170/pr total delivered. Later, I plan to order a HID conversion kit for the low-beams ONLY with 4300K bulbs & slim ballasts. I'll also modify the circuit so the lows stay on with the highs.
Low Beam - H7
Hi Beam - H1



The lowest price I've found is $150/pr shipped with halogen bulbs for the chrome version. Search for FO2503114, FO2502118, or "1992 bronco halo projector". Other eBay sellers with good prices on these headlights include:
imotorsportoutlet
eaglemotorsport
ada = ctrusa
All of my trucks' lights came from this seller: black https://www.ebay.com/itm/273562204627 ; chrome https://www.ebay.com/itm/274382325575

These lights are also available with chrome instead of black, in various locations.



UPDATE: the cheap HIDs I got didn't last, so I've been using the supplied halogen bulbs for several years. When they go out, I may swap to LED.

The big blue connector plugs into the headlight bulb connector, and the 2 smaller ones go to the marker lamp sockets, which then lock into the housing, sealing it.

With separate High & Low bulbs, the lows CAN be wired to stay on with the highs. A simple jumper across the dimmer switch (from input to low) will do that.
Low Beam - H7
Hi Beam - H1

See also:

Low beam has a stepped pattern and appears to be reasonably bright with the supplied Phillips halogen bulb.
Low Beam - H7
Hi Beam - H1

High beam throws a fairly good pattern, but it's hard to tell in daylight if it'll be good after it's installed.
Low Beam - H7
Hi Beam - H1

I knew they had a halo ring around the low bulb, but I didn't realize the lens below the hi beam was also lit. I haven't decided yet how to wire these, but they might go to the courtesy light circuit (Bk/LB or LG/Or). It's intended to be connected to the parking lamp circuit.

See also:
. . .

This will be part of the AutoLamp/AutoBright mod...

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To make room for the larger AutoLamp control box, I widened the stock hole & smoothed the edge.

Now it almost looks like it belongs there.

HID Bulbs & Colors

4300K is the color temperature used by most vehicle manufacturers because it produces the most visible light with the least heat (highest efficiency).

With separate High & Low bulbs, the lows CAN be wired to stay on with the highs; with HID, the lows SHOULD be wired to stay on. A simple jumper across the dimmer switch (from input to low) will do that.
Low Beam - H7
Hi Beam - H1

See also:

~$34 from eBay seller 2453dee (US).

~$34 from eBay seller 2453dee (US). No real packing inside, but nothing was damaged.
Low Beam - H7
Hi Beam - H1

The camera can't show it, but the bulbs aren't the same color, OR the color I ordered. They're noticeably blue (~6000K), and the replacement set he shipped me (nearly overnight) was about the same, so I'll just go with it.

With separate High & Low bulbs, the lows CAN be wired to stay on with the highs; with HID, the lows SHOULD be wired to stay on. A simple jumper across the dimmer switch (from input to low) will do that.

See also:

It's substantially BLUEer than the halogen, but throws the same pattern from the projectors.

The foreground is actually dimmer than this makes it look, and the background is actually brighter (past the tree).

A punched 1/4" hole is perfect to feed the HID wire through the bulb cap. It takes some effort & silicone grease, but the rubber will stretch enough for the connectors to pass through. The clean hole forms a better seal around the cable than a slit would.

With separate High & Low bulbs, the lows CAN be wired to stay on with the highs; with HID, the lows SHOULD be wired to stay on. A simple jumper across the dimmer switch (from input to low) will do that.

UPDATE: one of these ballasts burned out, and the seller didn't respond to my e-mail about a replacement. So I've removed the other ballast, and I'll just run halogens.

The stock marker & turn bulb holders lock into the back of the headlight housing below the main bulbs so it's almost sealed. I labelled the bulb positions with their bulb types.
Low Beam - H7
Hi Beam - H1



Note the galvanized adjuster screw at the bottom of the screwdriver channel. I added white paint pen to its Up/Down labels. The screw head is both a hex (8mm IIRC) and a #2 phillips with a large integral washer whose lip is serrated so that it can be driven at a right angle by a long #2 phillips. That's why it's set into that channel - to keep the screwdriver shaft in-place as adjustments are made to the low-beam's vertical alignment. Horizontal alignment isn't as critical with projectors. Alignment isn't as critical for the hi-beam.

Originally, the orange take-out went to an orange/amber bulb in the top outboard opening for the factory corner marker lens. The gray takeout for the headlight bulb went to the large round upper front opening. But for these headlights, all the connectors come to the lower opening, which was originally just for the park/turn bulb (with the white connector). On some harnesses, these takeouts are significantly shorter, making it difficult to attach the bulb holders to the new headlight housings.

There's no reason to fight the original clips - just drill or hole-saw some access holes. I usually pop the clips out with a small prybar, long flathead screwdriver, or sharp hose hook.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

If the grill reinforcement has been twisted (as from unrepaired collision damage) for a while, the headlight may not sit exactly flat. So I clipped the longer top inboard mounting boss so the top outboard mount would fit.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

It probably would have been better to use a couple of washers slid onto the post (held by another screwed down) to make the cut closer to parallel with the original surface, because mine ended up slightly angled. I also found it necessary to trim the flange that wraps onto the top of the grill reinforcement where it touches the limiting post (to the right of my hand in the bottom right pic). Another fix (for both) would have been to simply stack a few washers behind the OUTboard mount to space it rearward into the grill reinforcement. But I wasn't sure the screw would be long enough, and the snips were handier than my box of screws & washers.

All of my trucks' lights came from this seller: black https://www.ebay.com/itm/273562204627 ; chrome https://www.ebay.com/itm/274382325575

See also:

The flash from the camera ruins the effect - they actually look a LOT better IRL.

All of my trucks' lights came from this seller: black https://www.ebay.com/itm/273562204627 ; chrome https://www.ebay.com/itm/274382325575

When aimed properly, they're VERY effective, even with the included halogen bulbs. I don't know why some people have trouble aiming them - it just takes a slightly-long #2 Phillips screwdriver and a couple of seconds in the dark.

All of my trucks' lights came from this seller: black https://www.ebay.com/itm/273562204627 ; chrome https://www.ebay.com/itm/274382325575

Even in fog, the projector pattern is obviously better than the original scatter design was (even when the factory headlights were new).

These are so good, that I put them on all my trucks. I liked the way these trucks looked originally, but I'm so used to seeing them this way that they look normal to me with these headlights. And judging by how many others I see on the roads, most people feel the same way.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

All of my trucks' lights came from this seller:
Black https://www.ebay.com/itm/273562204627
Chrome https://www.ebay.com/itm/274382325575

The rest of this photo album shows more about installation, aiming, & how they perform...

After breaking a headlight and buying a replacement pair, I decided to open up the damaged one to see how it's built. The glue used to seal & attach the lens to the housing is pretty tough, but not as tough as steel tools. After removing the ~6 small silver screws, pry slowly got them apart with NO further damage.

The outer lens is primarily glued on - the small screws really just hold it in-place so it doesn't shift if the adhesive ever gets hot & soft.

The mask is held in-place by the larger gold screws on the back, and hides the real guts of the headlight. The hi & low beams are mounted to a plate that pivots on 2 balls, and is tilted up/down as a unit via the screw outboard near the bottom. The turn reflector is integrated with the reflector for the large lens under the hi beam.

The wedge connector spliced to 2 sets of wires supplies the halo & the large lens under the hi beam. The halo has 2 LEDs embedded in the bottom of the ring, so the epoxy-filled box above my hand reduces the voltage & current going to them so they don't burn out. The side LEDs have resistors on their PC board.

The wedge connector spliced to 2 sets of wires supplies the halo & the large lens under the hi beam. The halo has 2 LEDs embedded in the bottom of the ring, so the epoxy-filled box above my hand reduces the voltage & current going to them so they don't burn out. The side LEDs have resistors on their PC board.

The lower lens uses an incandescent bulb that's not accessible for replacement. When this blue bulb burns out, that lens will be dark.

The wedge connector with the cloth insulation goes directly to the side LEDs, but there are resistors on the back of this board so the LEDs aren't actually running on 12V.

This headlight is broken (inside & out), so I'm testing this lens tint on it.

Even with the gates closed in this small yard, it's pretty windy, so I had to go pretty heavy to get an even coat. I'd rather it be more transparent, but I'll see how this looks with the lights on after it dries.

It seems a lot lighter now than it did when it was wet. I brushed off some dust with my hand, which is why it looks scratched.

This is way too dark for my taste.

It just looks like a blacked-out headlight. You can't even tell that it's an aftermarket projector. When the headlights are on, they create bright spots on the tint. I'm NOT doing this to the ones that are going on the truck.

It's a lot splotchier than it looked from the outside. Either I'm not good enough to lay down a light coat, or this spray tip doesn't produce an even spread.