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A punched 1/4" hole is perfect to feed the HID wire through…

A punched 1/4" hole is perfect to feed the HID wire through the bulb cap. It takes some effort & silicone grease, but the rubber will stretch enough for the connectors to pass through. The clean hole forms a better seal around the cable than a slit would. With separate High & Low bulbs, the lows CAN be wired to stay on with the highs; with HID, the lows SHOULD be wired to stay on. A simple jumper across the dimmer switch (from input to low) will do that. UPDATE: one of these ballasts burned out, and the seller didn't respond to my e-mail about a replacement. So I've removed the other ballast, and I'll just run halogens.
A punched 1/4" hole is perfect to feed the HID wire through the bulb cap. It takes some effort & silicone grease, but the rubber will stretch enough for the connectors to pass through. The clean hole forms a better seal around the cable than a slit would. With separate High & Low bulbs, the lows CAN be wired to stay on with the highs; with HID, the lows SHOULD be wired to stay on. A simple jumper across the dimmer switch (from input to low) will do that. UPDATE: one of these ballasts burned out, and the seller didn't respond to my e-mail about a replacement. So I've removed the other ballast, and I'll just run halogens.Original file
A punched 1/4" hole is perfect to feed the HID wire through the bulb cap. It takes some effort & silicone grease, but the rubber will stretch enough for the connectors to pass through. The clean hole forms a better seal around the cable than a slit would. With separate High & Low bulbs, the lows CAN be wired to stay on with the highs; with HID, the lows SHOULD be wired to stay on. A simple jumper across the dimmer switch (from input to low) will do that. UPDATE: one of these ballasts burned out, and the seller didn't respond to my e-mail about a replacement. So I've removed the other ballast, and I'll just run halogens.

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Dark gray dash bezel with headlight DIM/RANGE and LAMP/DELAY switch controls, held by hand HID bulb chart showing base types and color temperatures from 3000K to 12000K 1983 Ford Bronco photo 1983 Ford Bronco photo Xentec HID ballast kit bench-tested on a desk, bulb glowing bright with alligator clip leads. 1983 Ford Bronco photo Vehicle headlight lighting up a grassy yard at night with green glow near a wood fence 1983 Ford Bronco photo Back of dusty headlight assembly with H7/H1 bulb caps and wiring connectors 1983 Ford Bronco photo 1983 Ford Bronco photo 1983 Ford Bronco photo 1983 Ford Bronco photo 1983 Ford Bronco photo 1983 Ford Bronco photo 1983 Ford Bronco photo 36photos in this albumView all

A punched 1/4" hole is perfect to feed the HID wire through the bulb cap. It takes some effort & silicone grease, but the rubber will stretch enough for the connectors to pass through. The clean hole forms a better seal around the cable than a slit would.

With separate High & Low bulbs, the lows CAN be wired to stay on with the highs; with HID, the lows SHOULD be wired to stay on. A simple jumper across the dimmer switch (from input to low) will do that.

UPDATE: one of these ballasts burned out, and the seller didn't respond to my e-mail about a replacement. So I've removed the other ballast, and I'll just run halogens.

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