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reservoir.jpg '87-96 Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir

There's no good way to clean these reservoirs in-place, and even removing them doesn't make it much easier, but it does prevent the washout from going into the MC.

The plastic pliers are the least-likely method to break the reservoir, but it can still happen if the plastic is foggy.  Removing the reed switch isn't really necessary unless it's bad, but this one is OK.  The hardest thing to remove is the float, but I wanted to be sure there were no rust particles on the magnet, and no sediment under it - there was neither.

After bending an old toothbrush to scrub the inside with hot water & Purple Power, I drilled the rear baffles to make changing the fluid easier, blasted it out with brake cleaner & let everything dry.  I put a thin coat of silicone grease (SilGlide) on the grommets to make future removal easier, and then reinstalled it.

Note that this master cylinder is built withOUT a SCCDS port, indicating that it did NOT come from a '94-04 truck with cruise.

See also:
[url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1101054][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1101054/thumbnail/brakewarn92.jpg[/img][/url] . [url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1163494][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1163494/thumbnail/shiftlock.jpg[/img][/url] . [url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1033824][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1033824/thumbnail/sccdss.jpg[/img][/url] . [url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895333][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/895333/thumbnail/mastercyl9496.jpg[/img][/url] . [url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1158137][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1158137/thumbnail/20200315_195057.jpg[/img][/url]
reservoir.jpg | Hits: 3620 | Posted on: 5/13/13 | View original size (372.43 KB)

'87-96 Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir

There's no good way to clean these reservoirs in-place, and even removing them doesn't make it much easier, but it does prevent the washout from going into the MC.

The plastic pliers are the least-likely method to break the reservoir, but it can still happen if the plastic is foggy. Removing the reed switch isn't really necessary unless it's bad, but this one is OK. The hardest thing to remove is the float, but I wanted to be sure there were no rust particles on the magnet, and no sediment under it - there was neither.

After bending an old toothbrush to scrub the inside with hot water & Purple Power, I drilled the rear baffles to make changing the fluid easier, blasted it out with brake cleaner & let everything dry. I put a thin coat of silicone grease (SilGlide) on the grommets to make future removal easier, and then reinstalled it.

Note that this master cylinder is built withOUT a SCCDS port, indicating that it did NOT come from a '94-04 truck with cruise.

See also:
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