1993 Ford Bronco
Owner: Steve83         (All of this user's registries on SuperMotors)
From: Memphis, TN, U.S.A.        (Other registries in TN)
Year, Make, & Model: 1993 Ford Bronco        (Other Ford Broncos)
Clubs: SuperFord.org        (Other vehicles in this club)
Nickname: Resurrected THRICE
Mileage: 186759
Engine: Jasper 5.8L with less than 4Kmi when it was abandoned the first time for 6 years.
Drivetrain: E4OD, not rebuilt yet; BW1356 ESOF, still working; stock Dana44IFS open 3.54 w/stock auto hub locks; rebuilt Ford 8.8" TracLok 3.55, stock F&R sway bars, stock quad front & regular rear shocks (Carquest Bruiser Gas XL), BFG AT/TA-KO 32x11.50R15
Notes: Abandoned by my brother-in-law in '03, and left in a wooded area for 6 years. In addition to the leaves, spider webs, mildew, vines, trees, & wasps all over it, the battery was dead, the ignition lock cylinder had to be drilled out after the keys were lost, the MLPS is bad, the starter relay is intermittent, the smog pump & A/C compressor were seized, the fuel pump was clogged, the gas was bad, the t/g window switches didn't work, the wiper motor makes a LOT of noise, the wipers were torn, the brakes were rusted, the tires were almost 6 years old, the carpet was filthy, and all the fluids had to be changed.

It was originally purchased by a medical student. When he became a doctor in '02, he drove it to the Land Rover dealership that my brother-in-law & I were remodelling & traded it in. I bet he wishes he had kept it. My b-i-l bought it before it was wholesaled, but got bored with it after a couple of years. He went to a KingRanch F250, then a Jag XK8, & now an H2.

My g/f's nephew decided he wanted a Bronco for his first vehicle, and after searching for a month, we realized it would be cheaper to bring this one back than to buy someone else's problems. So I spent a few months fixing it, and then gave it to him. He wrecked it a month later. It has taken about 4 months of evenings & weekends to get it driveable again.

Then he lost his license, so it sat another year before he could go back to abusing & neglecting it for a couple of years. He finally traded it for an economical car, so I bought it back.
Last Updated: 10/4/2015
Hits: 40737
Folder Hits Comments Created Updated
folder Base album350037,017011/5/092/3/15
    folder Storage Problems170023,971011/6/099/9/15
    folder A/C Conversion to R-134a150025,151011/24/097/17/15
    folder Exhaust Leak130032,825011/30/094/30/14
    folder First Wreck480045,79401/19/109/9/15
    folder Axle WTF40045309/5/149/6/14
folder Now it's MINE!2120028,44508/30/1410/4/15
    folder New Parts44006,45609/15/149/9/15
Newest Media Files
12 hits | 93.85 KB | Posted: 10/4/15

Yesterday, I cleaned & painted the fan. The clutch was stuck, but it seems to be working OK now.
7 hits | 86.3 KB | Posted: 10/3/15

Ford installs this hanger with a stud at the rear (right of image) & a nut on top of the crossmember. Then there's a loose bolt & nut at the front. Neither is easy or convenient to remove when the body is on, so I knocked the stud out and replaced ...
9 hits | 81.64 KB | Posted: 10/3/15

This hanger was only used on F-series, but I put one on my '83, and I plan to put this one on this truck. It supports the back of the Y-pipe between the 2nd cat & the muffler. Before installation, it will get undercoated, and the hanging shaft will...
7 hits | 67.6 KB | Posted: 10/3/15

Before mounting the gas tank, I brushed & sealed the nuts, bolts, & washers. I also turned the straps around so their nuts are at the rear crossmember.
47 hits | 62.47 KB | Posted: 8/30/15

In addition to red threadlocker, the undercoating should keep the threads clean & usable for many years.
42 hits | 83.35 KB | Posted: 8/30/15

The rear carriage bolts are from the JY, and I welded them to their square-punched plates to keep them from spinning. I also had to remove the side bolts to get them in, which means they can't come out.
46 hits | 74.73 KB | Posted: 8/30/15

Everything is undercoated to resist rust. I set these to form a channel for the wiring harness in the other frame rail. It will still be easy to rinse out since the ends are wide open.
44 hits | 98 KB | Posted: 8/30/15

To make installation & removal easier, I welded these Gr.8 bolts to some light steel so they don't spin. Now I can quickly drop the receiver if necessary, without fighting loose bolts. But it's centered & tweaked so it doesn't block the gas tank, l...
44 hits | 79.51 KB | Posted: 8/30/15

I was hoping to save its original label, but all the ink came off with the first shot of PurplePower. So I got it as clean as I could, primered it, and shot it gloss black, like the front.
Most Viewed Files
5225 hits | 73.03 KB | Posted: 11/13/09

After replacing the muffler, I could hear that the blower would only run at HI speed, so I bought a new resistor. When I pulled the old one, I saw why it had overheated - a squirrel nest in the squirrel cage. Part of the blower was chewed away, cau...
4670 hits | 80.72 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

To extract the broken bolt, I used a Snap-On A80A stud remover/installer. Afterward, I chased all the threads with a rethreading kit & thread files. Then all were rinsed with brake cleaner (including inside the heads & the EGR fittings) and coated ...
4154 hits | 74.58 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

With the wheelwell gone, it's easy to inspect the frame ground, just inboard of the spring tower on top of the frame rail. The battery ground cable is stripped ~3/4" and a tab is soldered on so it can be bolted to the frame. The thumbnail belo...
3156 hits | 70.1 KB | Posted: 11/14/09

These factory Ford recovery eyes mount to 3 parts, one of which has no welding or bending. They attach using only their factory fasteners, & those on the truck. The bumper doesn't have to be removed to install them (although it's easier), and they ...
3040 hits | 85.95 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

After driving it around for a week or so, an exhaust leak became apparent on the R side. I quickly eliminated the Y-pipe, 2ndry air crossover pipe, & EGR tube as possible sources, leaving only the exhaust manifold. An inspection mirror & flashlight...
2789 hits | 91.96 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

Because both the manifold & the head were still relatively true & UN-rusted, I used the same sealant as the factory - chassis grease in a thin film around each port. When the manifold gets hot, the grease will bake into a varnish, much like cast iro...
2731 hits | 96.69 KB | Posted: 4/3/10

The original radius arm bracket (Left: E1TZ-3B095-B ; Right F5TZ-3B095-BA) is factory-bolted on, so changing it will probably be easier than straightening the frame flange. This cost less than $50 from the dealership.
2570 hits | 106.74 KB | Posted: 9/5/10

Rather than drop this heavy beast all the way to the ground, I just left it on the jack and rolled it back enough to get the torque converter out. The transfer case is still attached, and the ratchet straps are keeping the assembly on the jack. The...
2425 hits | 68.6 KB | Posted: 11/14/09

A squirrel chewed thru the squirrel cage, and no one has a direct-replacement plastic one, so I had to use this $16 metal one from NAPA or O'Reilly (I forget now).

The motor was very hard-to-turn, so I removed it, sprayed penetrating oil into the ve...
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