1993 Ford Bronco
Owner: Steve83         (All of this user's registries on SuperMotors)
From: Memphis, TN, U.S.A.        (Other registries in TN)
Year, Make, & Model: 1993 Ford Bronco        (Other Ford Broncos)
Clubs: SuperFord.org        (Other vehicles in this club)
Nickname: Resurrected THRICE
Mileage: 186759
Engine: Jasper 5.8L with less than 4Kmi when it was abandoned the first time for 6 years.
Drivetrain: E4OD, not rebuilt yet; BW1356 ESOF, still working; stock Dana44IFS open 3.54 w/stock auto hub locks; rebuilt Ford 8.8" TracLok 3.55, stock F&R sway bars, stock quad front & regular rear shocks (Carquest Bruiser Gas XL), BFG AT/TA-KO 32x11.50R15
Notes: Abandoned by my brother-in-law in '03, and left in a wooded area for 6 years. In addition to the leaves, spider webs, mildew, vines, trees, & wasps all over it, the battery was dead, the ignition lock cylinder had to be drilled out after the keys were lost, the MLPS is bad, the starter relay is intermittent, the smog pump & A/C compressor were seized, the fuel pump was clogged, the gas was bad, the t/g window switches didn't work, the wiper motor makes a LOT of noise, the wipers were torn, the brakes were rusted, the tires were almost 6 years old, the carpet was filthy, and all the fluids had to be changed.

It was originally purchased by a medical student. When he became a doctor in '02, he drove it to the Land Rover dealership that my brother-in-law & I were remodelling & traded it in. I bet he wishes he had kept it. My b-i-l bought it before it was wholesaled, but got bored with it after a couple of years. He went to a KingRanch F250, then a Jag XK8, & now an H2.

My g/f's nephew decided he wanted a Bronco for his first vehicle, and after searching for a month, we realized it would be cheaper to bring this one back than to buy someone else's problems. So I spent a few months fixing it, and then gave it to him. He wrecked it a month later. It has taken about 4 months of evenings & weekends to get it driveable again.

Then he lost his license, so it sat another year before he could go back to abusing & neglecting it for a couple of years. He finally traded it for an economical car, so I bought it back. I'm overdoing it now...
Last Updated: 2/12/2016
Hits: 43662
Folder Hits Comments Created Updated
folder Base album350038,836011/5/092/3/15
    folder Storage Problems170025,214011/6/099/9/15
    folder A/C Conversion to R-134a150026,000011/24/097/17/15
    folder Exhaust Leak130034,605011/30/091/27/16
    folder First Wreck480047,38001/19/102/5/16
    folder Axle WTF40060209/5/1411/18/15
folder Now it's MINE!2340043,93408/30/142/12/16
    folder New Parts520010,67509/15/141/30/16
Newest Media Files
36 hits | 174.86 KB | Posted: 1/30/16

Custom-made Power Adjustable Memory Pedals
40 hits | 56.12 KB | Posted: 1/7/16

The flange was holding the muffler almost in-position, but this is the mount that will bear its weight. I'll tack it to the muffler later.

54 hits | 104.19 KB | Posted: 1/7/16

This heavy plasma-cut stainless flange joins the muffler to the Y-pipe just like a stock '96 Bronco's, but without the hassles of a U-clamped joint. And since I tapped threads into it, I won't have to worry about the stock tab nuts rusting away.

53 hits | 67.5 KB | Posted: 12/31/15

To match the stainless muffler, I built a stainless hanger from some 3/8" rod and a sheared strip of ~16ga molded around the old muffler.

55 hits | 104.64 KB | Posted: 12/25/15

Yep - radiator fins are clean & straight.
113 hits | 74.63 KB | Posted: 12/16/15

Wheel Arch Rust

The tight gap where the reinforcement meets the quarter panel is like a funnel for sand & gravel. As it builds up, it works its way down (due to normal vibration & heat-cycles), causing it to eventually cut through the primer (if pr...
68 hits | 38.76 KB | Posted: 12/3/15

MotorCraft DY-731 HEGO
Bosch 0258003533
date code 2M11 = December 2, 2011
105 hits | 82.16 KB | Posted: 11/25/15

Walker 22798 Stainless Steel Muffler made in USA is nearly identical to the original. The body is 1" shorter.

91 hits | 82.17 KB | Posted: 11/18/15

The new cat already had a heat shield, but it's not as large or correct as the factory shield. With some steel wool, most of the mud came off the original aluminizing, so I skipped the primer and just painted it. New tabs had to be welded onto the ...
Most Viewed Files
5542 hits | 73.03 KB | Posted: 11/13/09

After replacing the muffler, I could hear that the blower would only run at HI speed, so I bought a new resistor. When I pulled the old one, I saw why it had overheated - a squirrel nest in the squirrel cage. Part of the blower was chewed away, cau...
4822 hits | 80.72 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

To extract the broken bolt, I used a Snap-On A80A stud remover/installer. Afterward, I chased all the threads with a rethreading kit & thread files. Then all were rinsed with brake cleaner (including inside the heads & the EGR fittings) and coated ...
4506 hits | 74.58 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

With the wheelwell gone, it's easy to inspect the frame ground, just inboard of the spring tower on top of the frame rail. The battery ground cable is stripped ~3/4" and a tab is soldered on so it can be bolted to the frame. The thumbnail belo...
3293 hits | 70.1 KB | Posted: 11/14/09

These factory Ford recovery eyes mount to 3 parts, one of which has no welding or bending. They attach using only their factory fasteners, & those on the truck. The bumper doesn't have to be removed to install them (although it's easier), and they ...
3269 hits | 85.95 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

After driving it around for a week or so, an exhaust leak became apparent on the R side. I quickly eliminated the Y-pipe, 2ndry air crossover pipe, & EGR tube as possible sources, leaving only the exhaust manifold. An inspection mirror & flashlight...
2938 hits | 91.96 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

Because both the manifold & the head were still relatively true & UN-rusted, I used the same sealant as the factory - chassis grease in a thin film around each port. When the manifold gets hot, the grease will bake into a varnish, much like cast iro...
2869 hits | 96.69 KB | Posted: 4/3/10

The original radius arm bracket (Left: E1TZ-3B095-B ; Right F5TZ-3B095-BA) is factory-bolted on, so changing it will probably be easier than straightening the frame flange. This cost less than $50 from the dealership.
2734 hits | 106.74 KB | Posted: 9/5/10

Rather than drop this heavy beast all the way to the ground, I just left it on the jack and rolled it back enough to get the torque converter out. The transfer case is still attached, and the ratchet straps are keeping the assembly on the jack. The...
2584 hits | 68.6 KB | Posted: 11/14/09

A squirrel chewed thru the squirrel cage, and no one has a direct-replacement plastic one, so I had to use this $16 metal one from NAPA or O'Reilly (I forget now).

The motor was very hard-to-turn, so I removed it, sprayed penetrating oil into the ve...
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