1993 Ford Bronco
Owner: Steve83         (All of this user's registries on SuperMotors)
From: Memphis, TN, U.S.A.        (Other registries in TN)
Year, Make, & Model: 1993 Ford Bronco        (Other Ford Broncos)
Avatar:
Clubs: SuperFord.org        (Other vehicles in this club)
Nickname: Resurrected THRICE
Mileage: 186759
Engine: Jasper 5.8L with less than 4Kmi when it was abandoned the first time for 6 years.
Drivetrain: E4OD, not rebuilt yet; BW1356 ESOF, still working; stock Dana44IFS open 3.54 w/stock auto hub locks; rebuilt Ford 8.8" TracLok 3.55, stock F&R sway bars, stock quad front & regular rear shocks (Carquest Bruiser Gas XL), BFG AT/TA-KO 32x11.50R15
Notes: Abandoned by my brother-in-law in '03, and left in a wooded area for 6 years. In addition to the leaves, spider webs, mildew, vines, trees, & wasps all over it, the battery was dead, the ignition lock cylinder had to be drilled out after the keys were lost, the MLPS is bad, the starter relay is intermittent, the smog pump & A/C compressor were seized, the fuel pump was clogged, the gas was bad, the t/g window switches didn't work, the wiper motor makes a LOT of noise, the wipers were torn, the brakes were rusted, the tires were almost 6 years old, the carpet was filthy, and all the fluids had to be changed.

It was originally purchased by a medical student. When he became a doctor in '02, he drove it to the Land Rover dealership that my brother-in-law & I were remodelling & traded it in. I bet he wishes he had kept it. My b-i-l bought it before it was wholesaled, but got bored with it after a couple of years. He went to a KingRanch F250, then a Jag XK8, & now an H2.

My g/f's nephew decided he wanted a Bronco for his first vehicle, and after searching for a month, we realized it would be cheaper to bring this one back than to buy someone else's problems. So I spent a few months fixing it, and then gave it to him. He wrecked it a month later. It has taken about 4 months of evenings & weekends to get it driveable again.

Then he lost his license, so it sat another year before he could go back to abusing & neglecting it for a couple of years. He finally traded it for an economical car, so I bought it back.
Last Updated: 4/25/2015
Hits: 37088
Album
Folder Hits Comments Created Updated
folder Base album350034,121011/5/092/3/15
    folder Storage Problems170022,253011/6/097/2/14
    folder A/C Conversion to R-134a150021,935011/24/092/13/15
    folder Exhaust Leak130030,395011/30/094/30/14
    folder First Wreck480043,26301/19/101/26/15
    folder Axle WTF40027709/5/149/6/14
folder Now it's MINE!112009,38708/30/144/25/15
    folder New Parts34002,82709/15/144/24/15
Newest Media Files
05Gray76.JPG
3 hits | 118.01 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

The flexplate is painted, and I chiseled a notch into the crank hub stickout to match the plate's notched bolt hole. Then I added some orange paint to make it stand out, but that's hidden.
05Gray75.JPG
3 hits | 115.54 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

The shim plate is Ford IMPLEMENT gray, but it's clean & has a new foam ring, and it's on. After cup-brushing the crank hub clean, the bolts got sealed with blue threadlocker.
05Gray72.JPG
5 hits | 96.59 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

This appears to be a better seal than before, but I'll check this, too, after it all dries.
05Gray69.JPG
5 hits | 114.35 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

This appears to be a better seal than before, but I'll check this, too, after it all dries.
05Gray68.JPG
5 hits | 144.51 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

After settling the intake so it's level to the block at the ends of the valley, I spun all the bolts down just until they hit so the intake couldn't shift. Each of the middle 8 bolts has a ring of E6000 where the shank meets the head to seal against...
05Gray67.JPG
6 hits | 120.32 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

This E6000 bead is along the same lines as on the other side of the gaskets. The RightStuff end seals are substantially thicker than the gap, but not so much that it'll spill into the valley when compressed.
05Gray66.JPG
5 hits | 131.79 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

This pattern of sealant will keep the crankcase sealed, and each journal isolated, and will allow oil on the 8 middle intake manifold bolt threads (which pass through the head bosses back into the valley) to drain back into the valley. The 4 corner ...
05Gray62.JPG
6 hits | 112.98 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

Just to make sure the machinist hadn't skewed the intake surfaces, I dry-fitted it without gaskets directly against the heads to check for rocking, or gaps. There were none, but I could barely see daylight from one valley end to the other, which is ...
05Gray61.JPG
5 hits | 116.51 KB | Posted: 4/25/15

This time, I'm using E6000 instead of Indian Head shellac, and I'm putting it all along both sides of the gaskets. I'm still using RightStuff for the end seals. Some of the bolts will get E6000; others get blue threadlocker.
Most Viewed Files
Resistor.JPG
4792 hits | 73.03 KB | Posted: 11/13/09

After replacing the muffler, I could hear that the blower would only run at HI speed, so I bought a new resistor. When I pulled the old one, I saw why it had overheated - a squirrel nest in the squirrel cage. Part of the blower was chewed away, cau...
10StudXtrct.JPG
4450 hits | 80.72 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

To extract the broken bolt, I used a Snap-On A80A stud remover/installer. Afterward, I chased all the threads with a rethreading kit & thread files. Then all were rinsed with brake cleaner (including inside the heads & the EGR fittings) and coated ...
02GroundFrame.JPG
3755 hits | 74.58 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

With the wheelwell gone, it's easy to inspect the frame ground, just inboard of the spring tower on top of the frame rail. The battery ground cable is stripped ~3/4" and a tab is soldered on so it can be bolted to the frame. The thumbnail belo...
9Finished.JPG
2871 hits | 70.1 KB | Posted: 11/14/09

These factory Ford recovery eyes mount to 3 parts, one of which has no welding or bending. They attach using only their factory fasteners, & those on the truck. The bumper doesn't have to be removed to install them (although it's easier), and they ...
01WheelWell.JPG
2786 hits | 85.95 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

After driving it around for a week or so, an exhaust leak became apparent on the R side. I quickly eliminated the Y-pipe, 2ndry air crossover pipe, & EGR tube as possible sources, leaving only the exhaust manifold. An inspection mirror & flashlight...
12GreaseMan.JPG
2580 hits | 91.96 KB | Posted: 11/30/09

Because both the manifold & the head were still relatively true & UN-rusted, I used the same sealant as the factory - chassis grease in a thin film around each port. When the manifold gets hot, the grease will bake into a varnish, much like cast iro...
49Bracket.JPG
2544 hits | 96.69 KB | Posted: 4/3/10

The original radius arm bracket (Left: E1TZ-3B095-B ; Right F5TZ-3B095-BA) is factory-bolted on, so changing it will probably be easier than straightening the frame flange. This cost less than $50 from the dealership.
Trans2.JPG
2272 hits | 106.74 KB | Posted: 9/5/10

Rather than drop this heavy beast all the way to the ground, I just left it on the jack and rolled it back enough to get the torque converter out. The transfer case is still attached, and the ratchet straps are keeping the assembly on the jack. The...
53SquirrelCage.JPG
2186 hits | 68.6 KB | Posted: 11/14/09

A squirrel chewed thru the squirrel cage, and no one has a direct-replacement plastic one, so I had to use this $16 metal one from NAPA or O'Reilly (I forget now).

The motor was very hard-to-turn, so I sprayed penetrating oil into the vent hose ho...
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