1993 Ford Bronco
Steve83 (All of this user's registries on SuperMotors)
||Memphis, TN, U.S.A. (Other registries in TN)
|Year, Make, & Model:
1993 Ford Bronco (Other Ford Broncos)
SuperFord.org (Other vehicles in this club)
||Jasper 5.8L with less than 4Kmi when it was abandoned the first time for 6 years.
||E4OD, not rebuilt yet; BW1356 ESOF, still working; stock Dana44IFS open 3.54 w/stock auto hub locks; rebuilt Ford 8.8" TracLok 3.55, stock F&R sway bars, stock quad front & regular rear shocks (Carquest Bruiser Gas XL), BFG AT/TA-KO 32x11.50R15
||It was originally purchased by a medical student. When he became a doctor in '02, he drove it to the Land Rover dealership that my brother-in-law & I were remodelling & traded it in. I bet he wishes he had kept it. My b-i-l bought it before it was wholesaled, but got bored with it after a couple of years, and abandoned it in '03. It was left in a wooded area for 6 years as he went to a KingRanch F250, then a Jag XK8, then an H2, then a Tundra, then a 4Runner...
In addition to the leaves, spider webs, mildew, vines, trees, & wasps all over it, the battery was dead, the ignition lock cylinder had to be drilled out after the keys were lost, the MLPS is bad, the starter relay is intermittent, the smog pump & A/C compressor were seized, the fuel pump was clogged, the gas was bad, the t/g window switches didn't work, the wiper motor made a LOT of noise, the wipers were torn, the brakes were rusted, the tires were almost 6 years old, the carpet was filthy, and all the fluids had to be changed.
When my g/f's nephew decided he wanted a Bronco for his first vehicle, and after searching for a month, we realized it would be cheaper to bring this one back (its first resurrection) than to buy someone else's problems. So I spent a few months fixing it, and then sold it to him. He wrecked it a month later. It took about 4 months of evenings & weekends (the 2nd resurrection) to get it driveable again. Then he lost his license, so it sat another year before he could go back to abusing & neglecting it for a couple of years.
He finally traded it for an economical car, so I bought it back. I'm overdoing it now (the 3rd resurrection) to make it the Bronco I think Ford would be building now, if they were building one now. I had to change the frame...
26 hits | 109.92 KB | Posted: 9/2/19
After installing the 2nd lift in the shop, I rolled the chassis & body (separately) outside for a while.
112 hits | 74.23 KB | Posted: 7/12/19
All the vacuum lines have been replaced with thick-walled (9mmODx3mmID) silicone tubing in the same colors as the factory used. I found them on ebay in the ~$1/ft range for colors, and ~$0.50/ft for black. I bought enough of each to do several vehi...
97 hits | 64.1 KB | Posted: 4/9/19
Continental 5003 Hi-Miler coolant hose set for Ford smallblock V8s
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
69 hits | 87.93 KB | Posted: 1/24/19
The same fabrication shop that cut the banister panels made these 3/8-inch stainless flanges, just like those at the front of the muffler (which are copies of the '96 Bronco flange). This way, I can replace only what I need to, and simply bolt it ba...
71 hits | 90.32 KB | Posted: 1/24/19
I tacked it together on the cribbing, and then built the hangers. I plan to flange the muffler-to-tailpipe connection exactly like the Y-pipe-to-muffler connection (a stainless copy of the '96 Bronco flange).
61 hits | 84.87 KB | Posted: 1/24/19
After a delay (building a new house & shop), I laid out the tailpipe & cut the prebent 2.25-inch stainless 90s to run like the stock pipe. The tip is a straight section left over from the banister in the house.
330 hits | 62.84 KB | Posted: 2/12/17
The downstream secondary air tube was broken, and too thin to weld. Since I don't have a bender to duplicate it, I just bought a heavy silicone hose made (in USA) for this application.
509 hits | 73.28 KB | Posted: 10/4/16
Walker 35574 secondary air repair tube & hose
531 hits | 65.75 KB | Posted: 6/11/16
The autoadjusters are available new, but they're expensive. The left always has 1 ring cut near its closed end, but the right may have 2 or none. The screw has L or R embossed in its unthreaded tip. The unthreaded cap has 3 rings or none, and fits...
7286 hits | 74.58 KB | Posted: 11/30/09
With the Right wheelwell gone, it's easy to inspect the frame ground, just inboard of the spring tower on top of the frame rail. The battery ground cable is stripped ~3/4" and a tab is soldered on so it can be bolted to the frame. The thumbnai...
7239 hits | 73.03 KB | Posted: 11/13/09
After replacing the muffler, I could hear that the blower would only run at HI speed, so I bought a new resistor. When I pulled the old one, I saw why it had overheated - a squirrel nest in the squirrel cage. Part of the blower was chewed away, cau...
5717 hits | 80.72 KB | Posted: 11/30/09
To extract the broken bolt, I used a Snap-On A80A stud remover/installer. Afterward, I chased all the threads with a rethreading kit & thread files. Then all were rinsed with brake cleaner (including inside the heads & the EGR fittings) and coated ...
4627 hits | 85.95 KB | Posted: 11/30/09
After driving it around for a week or so, an exhaust leak became apparent on the R side. I quickly eliminated the Y-pipe, 2ndry air crossover pipe, & EGR tube as possible sources, leaving only the exhaust manifold. An inspection mirror & flashlight...
4310 hits | 106.74 KB | Posted: 9/5/10
Rather than drop this heavy beast all the way to the ground, I just left it on the jack and rolled it back enough to get the torque converter out. The transfer case is still attached, and the ratchet straps are keeping the assembly on the jack. The...
4100 hits | 105.09 KB | Posted: 9/5/10
This E4OD has never been rebuilt, and is still working OK for some reason. But it has leaked intermittently, and it dumped about a gallon a few days ago, so I'm changing the front pump seal [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O0PPDI/]E9TZ-7A248-B[/ur...
4039 hits | 70.1 KB | Posted: 11/14/09
These factory Ford recovery eyes mount to 3 parts, one of which has no welding or bending. They attach using only their factory fasteners, & those on the truck. The bumper doesn't have to be removed to install them (although it's easier), and they ...
3898 hits | 96.69 KB | Posted: 4/3/10
The original radius arm bracket (Left: E1TZ-3B095-B ; Right F5TZ-3B095-BA) is factory-bolted on, so changing it will probably be easier than straightening the frame flange. This cost less than $50 from the dealership, but might be even cheaper from ...
3810 hits | 91.96 KB | Posted: 11/30/09
Because both the manifold & the head were still relatively true & UN-rusted, I used the same sealant as the factory - chassis grease in a thin film around each port. When the manifold gets hot, the grease will bake into a varnish, much like cast iro...
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