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New Tailgate Shell Prep
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New shells (which all come from the same Taiwanese factory, so don't pay more to get one from any particular supplier) don't have holes for the swingaway spare, inside carpet ('94-96 only) or outside trim panel. So before getting the shell painted, I drill the holes needed for the truck it's going onto. I also reinforce the corner for the swingaway (by riveting in a plate, and JBWelding inside the corner) even if it's not getting one immediately, and undercoat the bottom so that sand & rain don't rust it out. Finally, I paint the inside white to make assembly & cleaning easier, then send it to the painter for the exterior paint matching. When it's done, I install & align it to the body, then re-assemble it.

Tailgate shell replacement with new...
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Bronco Tailgate Replacement & Alignment
If you plan to do this, there are some preparatory steps that will make the job easier. Pull your taillights & rinse out that area, and the bottom of the t/g where the hinge bolts are (outside AND in, if possible). After it dries (like the next day) hit all the threads (including the tips of the hinge bolts inside the t/g) with some penetrating oil so it's easier to work on. Don't forget the strike bolt tips up high. If any parts need to be replaced (like the strike bolts/sleeves or cables), buy them & keep them in the truck so they're ready & available. Clean the frame around the rear bumper brackets & shoot a little spray paint (any color will work; even black) around them so it's easier to re-align it. Spray lube into the latches & the center mechanism (inside) so they work smoothly & easily. This process will involve some heavy lifting & holding while fasteners are adjusted, so if you need help, call a patient friend before you get into it. If the t/g shell is being replaced, the replacement should be prepped by thorough cleaning inside & out, repair of shipping or other damage & unneeded holes, and addition of optional holes (like swingaway spare strike, outside trim, & inside carpet). The bottom inside should be undercoated thoroughly to fill the bottom seam so it can't collect sand, salt, mud, or water. When that dries, it's best to paint the entire inside white so assembly will be easier. Finally, get it painted to match the truck.


Also, this is a common problem, especially on tailgates with a swingaway spare tire carrier, and the repair can affect the body alignment, so do this before beginning on t/g alignment:


When you have everything ready:
1) Lower the glass, open the t/g. Remove the strike bolts ('83-96: T50; or strike assemblies ('78-82): #3 or #4 Phillips). If the '83-96 plastic sleeves are damaged or missing, replace them with the small pair from Dorman 38424. '78-82 strikes must be replaced if worn, and I don't know of a supplier, other than junkyards. Lube the threads with anti-seize.

2) Remove the taillights, and apply penetrating oil to all the exposed threads. If the t/g is only being aligned, skip to step 4.

3) If the t/g is being removed/replaced, remove the carpet ('94-96 only) and the access panel's 10 #2 Phillips screws, and ('78-86 only) brace. Then loosen both of the torsion bar loop bolts, but brace the bar with a long tool against the interior face of the t/g, and raise the t/g as far as possible (to unload the bar) before removing the loop's bolts. Remove the rubber end seals and the outer weatherbelt's screws (4 #2Ph.), then pry up the outer and inner weatherbelts. Close both latches manually, then raise the glass until the hole in the left gear aligns with the regulator bolt, remove the 4 nuts (7/16"=11mm) holding the channels to the glass brackets, (if equipped) unplug the defrost wires and extract the pushpins from the glass brackets, and slide the glass out of the t/g. Remove the 4 bolts (7/16"=11mm) and 2 glass run channels; and (if equipped) the 4 nuts (9 or 10mm) and the outside trim panel; and (if equipped) the 2 or 3 bolts (10mm) and swingaway strike. Rotate the hairpin 90 degrees, slide the switch assembly off the lock cylinder, slide out the retainer, and remove the lock cylinder. Unplug the t/g harness ('87-96 from below the truck inside the left frame rail between the fuel tank & bumper), remove the green ground screw in the taillight well (with rear defrost only), and pull the harness into the tailgate by dislodging the grommets in the left taillight well and t/g. Unplug the motor connector, remove the conduit (2 #2Ph) at the left front of the access hole, extract the pushpins from the left side support, unplug the safety interlock switch, and remove the harness from the t/g. Remove the 2 bolts (7/16"=11mm) from the bottom(front) and the torsion bar retainers (with glass detect rod guide on the left retainer). Remove the 5 bolts (7/16"=11mm), the swingaway strike brace, and the regulator with motor, working its harness from under the torsion bar. Pinch the rubber glass stop pads and push them into the t/g for removal. Push the center pins of the support cable & wiring harness guides into the t/g, and remove the 3 guides. Carefully extract the guide loops for the latch rods, push the plastic catches off the operating rods for the latches & the inside handle (but not the glass detect rod at the left bottom/front), pull the rod ends out of the remote (center mechanism), remove the 5 bolts (7/16"=11mm) from the inside handle & remote, and remove them with the handle rod's grommet. Remove the 3 screws (#3 Phillips) from each latch, and remove them with their operating rods. Remove the support cables (early #3~4 Phillips; late T50) and leave the empty t/g shell in the closed position.
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4) If you have a swingaway, take the spare off. Loosen the 3 9/16" hinge bolts under each end of the t/g. If the t/g is being replaced, remove the bolts & the t/g shell, and transfer the torsion bar to the replacement shell. Replace the hinges if necessary (3 nuts/studs 9/16" in each taillight opening), then mount the replacement shell (which should be clean, dry, drilled for any accessories, undercoated in the bottom, painted white inside, and painted to match the truck, even if it's the same t/g) on the hinges. Attach the support cables (21-30 lb-ft) & their guides, and re-connect the torsion bar to its loop. With the t/g in the up/closed position and the hinge nuts & bolts snug but loose enough to slide with the hinges as far forward (taillight well nuts) as possible, adjust the t/g fore-aft on the hinges (bottom bolts) to be flush with the quarters & left-right to be centered (equal gaps), and up-down (taillight well nuts) so the upper body line is level above the taillights. With the t/g down/open, level it to the cargo floor's ridges' tops while keeping it centered, then tighten the bottom hinge bolts to 20-30 lb-ft. Adjust the hinges (taillight well nuts) the same distance rearward as the t/g was moved up, or forward if the t/g had to move down to be level with the floor. Close, open, & re-check the t/g alignment until you're satisfied, then tighten all 12 fasteners to 21-30 lb-ft.

5) Clean, paint, lubricate, & test any parts to be reused. All but the motor and switches can be submerged & soaked if necessary. Replace the flocked rubber runs (t/g & camper), weatherbelts, and rubber end seals if necessary, applying silicone spray or dry PTFE(Teflon) to the flocked surfaces. A motor that spins without moving the glass can be repaired by replacing the degraded Delrin bushings in its drive gear with common 1/4" steel nuts, but replacement gears with new bushings are also available. New regulators are GARBAGE and should never be used - especially since original regulators almost never fail. The regulator spring can be carefully unloaded & removed with vise-grips so that the original regulator can be washed, sandblasted, painted, & lubed (graphite paint is best on all the sliding surfaces, including the window channels). Soak latches in naphtha, kerosene, or deodorized mineral spirits; then brush inside & out to remove hardened grease. Lubrication is usually NOT necessary in the latches when they're clean, but a little flowable grease might help them. The most-common damage is probably the remote (center mechanism) being bent, but it's fairly easy to straighten by clamping its central rivet between 2 sockets in a vise, and then using channel-locks & an adjustable wrench to straighten the arm for the inside handle. Replacement remotes are available, and are OK, but usually not necessary because fixing the original is so easy. Make sure all the arms pivot easily (remove springs as needed for cleaning, inspection, & lubrication), and apply flowable grease to each pivot. The safety switch (on the remote for early trucks; on the driver's latch for later trucks) is very easy to open (if necessary), clean, re-assemble, install, & adjust, so don't discard or damage it. It virtually never fails, but it commonly gets bypassed by people who can't diagnose & repair the t/g properly. Inspect the torsion bar pocket inside the t/g for rust or damage that might allow it to break loose & shatter the glass. After scratching the wire colors into the plastic shells, it's worth de-pinning the motor connectors (motor & harness sides) and cleaning the terminals. Use a piece of cheap fine-grit fingernail file (basically stiff sandpaper) to gently clean the female (motor) terminals. The flat male (harness) terminals are easier, but it doesn't take much - try not to remove the grey coating, which exposes the brass below. If necessary, they can be dipped in a small crucible of electrical solder to re-coat them with fresh metal. If wires need repair or replacement, new Copper striped wire is available.


6) If the gaps between the t/g & quarters aren't the same width top & bottom, inspect the floor structure from under the frame for rust or damage to the rear body sill. If it has to be replaced, the t/g can be used to brace the body during that process. If it's OK, but either/both gaps are wider at the top, use a brace in the t/g opening (t/g open) diagonally to the top of the quarter that does NOT need adjustment, and a long ratchet strap from the bottom of that sill (below the quarter panel) up and across (camper lifted or removed) and down the other side, to pull the quarter panel's top inward (usually the passenger side due to the spare tire). When you're satisfied with the gaps, install the right strike bolt (with a good sleeve on it) to 12-20 lb-ft, the latches (which are easier to install when fully closed) to 2-6 lb-ft, the remote (center mechanism) & inside handle to 6-11 lb-ft, and connect all the operating rods. To take up slack, put a short Z-bend in each latch rod so that (with the glass detect rod held down/forward) the latches open simultaneously as soon as the handle is lifted slightly. Remember that the glass detect lever must be manually held down/forward any time the handle is to be lifted because the glass is not installed yet.
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7) Close the t/g VERY SLOWLY observing in the gap how the latch meets the strike - only the jaw(s) should touch the strike, which should be perfectly centered in the latch opening. Push just hard enough to make each latch click twice. If it won't catch the 2nd lock, open the t/g, slide the strike back, then repeat as needed. Adjust the strike bolt vertically to meet the center of the latch, and horizontally so the t/g is flush to the quarter at the 2nd click. Repeat for the left strike bolt, adjusting the t/g to be flush, and the latches to click simultaneously, and then fully-tighten the strike bolts ('83-96 strike bolts are 26-37 lb-ft; '78-82 strike plate screws are 12-20 lb-ft). Clip the lock cylinder to the t/g skin, and install the outside trim panel (if equipped, 1-2 lb-ft). Install the wiring harness into the t/g, then out through the jamb into the taillight well, and connect it to the frame harness. If present, tighten the defrost ground screw to 7-10 lb-ft. After setting both grommets, install the harness retainer on the t/g. Screw (2 #2Ph.) the conduit to the t/g access opening lower left lip, locating it clear of the torsion bar, and connect the latch interrupt switch. Install the t/g runs to 6-11 lb-ft. Set the switch assembly onto the lock cylinder and set the hairpin into its slots. Pin the harness to the welded support in the left side of the t/g shell. Install the motor onto the regulator (which should either have graphite paint or flowable grease on its pivots & sliding surfaces) and use a battery or jumper wires to run the regulator arms down to their installation position, indicated by the bolt access hole in the left gear. Install the regulator to the t/g shell, shifting it up/rear and to the right, and routing its wiring under the torsion bar and up to the right center of the access opening. Install the torsion bar retainers to 6-11 lb-ft, including the guide on the glass detect rod, and the rubber glass stops in their slots in the bottom/front of the t/g shell. Install the swingaway strike brace if necessary, making sure it aligns with the bolt holes in the skin. Position the regulator channels on the slides, insert the glass to the runs, slide the glass down & insert the channels' studs through the glass brackets, then tighten the nuts to 6-11 lb-ft. With the latches closed (at least the driver's on '87-96), the t/g key should operate the window motor, which should run at full-speed from retracted to extended positions. From the fully-extended position, support the glass as it begins to retract into the t/g runs, and stop it at the bottom. Adjust the remote (center mechanism) vertical position as far down/forward as possible (so the handle lies flat), but high enough for the inside handle to be unlocked. Open & close the t/g several times, and operate the window from both locations to make sure everything works properly. Install both weatherbelts and the screws (2 #2Ph.) for the outer (making sure both are centered before...), the rubber end seals (1 #2Ph. ea.), the watershield (if desired), the access panel (10 #2Ph.), the swingaway strike (if equipped), and the carpet (if equipped, 14 pushpins). Apply the swingaway bump pad (if equipped) and its pushpins (if equipped) where the bumper touches the t/g.
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8 ) Remember to follow the published maintenance schedule, including periodically washing & lubricating the hinges, latches, gaskets, and the t/g interior (even though that's not on the schedule).

At this point, the t/g should be perfectly aligned when open & closed. The only noise you should hear is the clicking of the latch jaws - not any creaking or thumping from the latch bodies hitting the strike sleeves. Lube the latches, hinges, & strike sleeves with a good flowable grease (Wynn's Viscotene, Winzer PolyLube250, Champion ChainLube) - not a penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench). Original WD-40 is not a grease or lubricant, but that brand is now applied to many other products. White lithium spray grease is OK, but certainly not the best. Apply a dry teflon &/or silicone spray lube to the body seal, and glass runs (inside the t/g, AND in the camper). Once you have all the bolts tight, re-check all the alignments. When everything is right & tight, put the spare, taillights, & bumper back. This diagram has the bumper torque specs: