The clutch engaged too close to the firewall, so before the pedal shaft wore into the steel pedal box, I pulled the pedals down to repair it.

This explains why & how to check the lever:



TOOLS:
BOO & pushrod hairpin - hand, or hook pick
Booster - 9/16" deep
Clutch MC - 13mm deep
Clutch pushrod - hand, or small prybar
Box to firewall - 10mm shallow
Steering shaft - 13mm
Clutch lever - 4" vise, 18mm, & BFH

Torque Specs:
Clutch Master Cylinder Nuts (13mm) 10-14 Nm; 7-10 lb-ft; 89-124 lb-in
Brake Pedal and Bracket Assembly to "Y" Brace Bolts (10mm heads; M8-1.25 x 16) 21-29 Nm; 15-21 lb-ft
Bleed Screw 3-5 Nm; 27-44 lb-in
Clutch Pivot Shaft Nut (18mm) 68-92 Nm; 50-68 lb-ft

Teflon to make a replacement bushing, if you don't want to use the Ford kit F3TZ-2C342-A.

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GO TO THE NEXT SEVERAL PICS & read their captions...

With both pushrods & the steering shaft pushed out of the firewall, the pedal box can come straight down.

With both pushrods & the steering shaft pushed out of the firewall, the pedal box can come straight down. Make sure the clutch & BOO switch wiring is out from between the pedal box & steering column support; then pull the clutch MC studs out of the firewall.

The assembly comes straight down the firewall, and out into the footwell.

Mark the original lever's alignment to the box, and then back the 18mm nut off until the tip of the threaded shaft is barely recessed.

With a prybar on the other end keeping the lever tight to the box, smack the nut's face to drive the shaft's splines out of the lever.

The spring fork will catch inside the spring, preventing the shaft from sliding too far.

That tiny gap between the shaft & the white plastic bushing is enough to make the clutch move to the bottom of the pedal's travel. If allowed to continue, it will wear into the steel box, requiring replacement or welding/machining.

New pedal bracket (F3TZ-2455-A ~$180 in 2015; lowest price I've seen ~$170)

Fortunately, this one hasn't worn into the steel box yet, so all it needs is a replacement (tight) bushing. New replacement bushing kits (F3TZ-2C342-A) are available, but they're not as tight as I want, and I'd have to order one (or some) and wait.

So I'll make one from Teflon, like I did for my pickup truck a few years ago...

I curved the PTFE strip cold by hand enough to fit into the hose clamp, then heated it to tighten the curve, and chilled it to set it. Then I cut it for length, and put it back into the clamp for another hot cycle to relax it into a smooth curve.

PTFE (Teflon) sheet

Using this bolt as a mold makes the bushing rounder than using the hose clamp alone. I preheated the bolt, and heated it longer this time before chilling, due to the greater thermal mass. It came out about as smoothly- & tightly-curved as the old bushing, but it's thicker, and made of better plastic (Teflon).

It's tight, but it fits.

I used the stack of washers in the background to pull the splines out of the bushing so I could set the lever back to its mark, and tighten down the nut. The truck went back together quickly after that, and the clutch is back in the middle of the pedal, where it belongs.

If it wasn't, the lever E7TZ-7A554-A would need to be replaced, and installed properly (since that's how the pedal is adjusted). This explains why & how to check the lever:



Finding the right washers is probably the hardest part of making my own bushing. But I have an extensive junkpile...