Before the adjustment. As you can see the tire has very bad camber. I am using the 3.2* adjsutable bushings. Other sized bushings will work the same but use different letter positions for different adjsutments.

Install the bushing set at' nuetral or 0* camber 0* caster. I did this step already when i did mt 8 lug TTB swap. Nuetral for my bushings is as N/GH or N over GH (between G and H).

You may want to consider putting a large washer between the nut and the bushing. it might help protect the letters on the top of the bushing when the nut is tightened down onto them. they can get hard to read after a few installs

Take the truck to get an alignment to get the toe set correctly. this can make camber/caster look really bad. Ask for the handout of before and after or jsut the before of the alignment if they dont give it to you anyways. My tire was soo bad looking that they didnt even bother changing the camber\\\\caster and only did the toe. this is why im making this writeup.

Jack the wheel up and take the tire off. secure it properly.

Remove the cotter pin that prevents the nut from vibrating loose. Take the nut off.

Put the nut back on upside down and make it flush with the top of the balljoint stud as shown. this protects the threadsfrom being damaged. damaging the threads will really make you unhappy later

With a hammer, hit the ball joint straight down flush with the nut. When you hit it down you will see the stud go down and in my case will even pop the bushing loose and up on its own. I hit it till the stud wouldnt go down any more and the bushing wouldnt come up anymore.

This process pervents breaking the bushing by using a chissle to hit it up. the alignment shops around me ALWAYS break the little tabs off the bushing becuase of this.

Since my bushing was freshly installed it was easy to take out. Others that have been in for a while might need alittle help with channellocks or hammer and chissle anwyays but be carefull not to damage the bushing, the tabs break off easily.

Take the bushing all the way off. Mine came off perfectly thanks to this meathod mentioned before.

I started on the left wheel because it wasnt soo bad. As you can see my camber (first) is pretty far from where it needs to be. the caster (second) wasnt too bad. Best place to be is in the middle of the ranges so aim for positive 0.2 or 0.3* camber and positive 4.0* caster. the third range is Toe which im not doing

doing alittle quick math using the bushings chart and the before-alignment handout i found out where to set my bushings.

Since i had -1.3* camber and i want it to be about 0.2* i need a to add about 1.5* camber.

Since i had 1.9* caster and i want it to be about 4.0* i need to add about 2.1* caster which rounds to 2.0*

using the chart i need to bushing to be set at UV/UV or UV over UV. When 2 letters are together like this that means to set it between the 2 letters.

My other side axle is bent and has -4.7* camber and -0.6* caster. I would need a total of 4.9* camber and 4.6* caster to be perfect. since camber is more important and the bushing only can only add 3.2* i maxed the bushing to full camber.


For 2.75* to 0.75* chart, click this thumbnail


For 3.2* to 0* chart, click this thumbnail

Adjustable Camber/Caster Bushings chart for 2.75* to 0*

Click it to make it bigger. This is to add or subtract the ammount of camber/caster needed to be in range

Chart thanks to FSB user Panabax

For 3.2* to 0.75* chart, click thumbnail below

Adjustable Camber/Caster Bushings chart for 3.2* to 0*

Ignore the markings as thats where ive previosuly had to adjsut them. Click it to make it bigger. This is to add or subtract the ammount of camber/caster needed to be in range

For 2.75* to 0.75* chart, click thumbnail below

The upper letter in the combo aligns with the notch in the body of the bushing. With the bushing still out, you can use a pair of pliers to spin the nut till the letter aligns with the notch.

The lower letter has the whole bushing align with the outside tab (the tab that is away from the vehicle not toward it) of the axle. You msut have the upper letter set before this.

My bushing needed to be set at UV/UV or UV over UV. That means i have to turn the top part of the bushing till the letters UV align with the notch in the bushing. Since UV also happens to be the bottom letter, i have the letters UV align with that tab on the axle.

Hit the bushing into place and try to get it as deep as you can. avoid damaging the balljoint.

Since i didnt have a socket big enough i had to improvise

Put the balljoint nut back on and tighten the nut to 85 to 100 ft/lbs. tighen more till the hole for the cotter pin is open and insert it. put wheel back on and do the other side.

Picture didnt come out good but this how mine looked after.

If you have your camber on the bushing set to max, it might be very difficult to place. My other side had to have the bushing maxed out but i couldnt get it to go into the axle evenly. i had to set alittle before maxed out to get it to go in properly

After you do both sides you will probably see your toe is now messed up. i went back to the alignment shop to have it redone under warrenty. they were completly amazed and embarrassed by how good i got it and they wouldnt even try. the driver side was spot on perfect, the other side was about 3/4 less due to the bushing being maxxed out and still needing more.