SuperMotors SuperMotors SUPERMOTORS Search: try “orange Bronco on 35s”
Home/ Registry/ Ford/ “B'co”/ How-to

How-to

1995 Ford Bronco Oil Pan and Oil Pump Replacement

1995 Ford Bronco · Repair · Expert · about 7 hours

Documented by SuperMotors from TRUCKY18’s photos

The rusted-through oil pan on a 1995 Ford Bronco was replaced, with the oil pump and pickup changed at the same time while the pan was off. The engine was raised on its mounts and the exhaust partly disconnected to clear the pan, and the whole job took TRUCKY18 seven hours lying in the driveway.

  1. Step 1

    Gather the parts before starting, and note the rust bubbles along the stock pan that make the replacement necessary. TRUCKY18 sprayed a couple of generous coats of truck bed coating on the new pan the day before and decided to replace the oil pump at the same time.

    As many of us FSB owners know the oil pan has a tendency to rust out, and what a wonderful thing because of how much work it takes to chang… (1995 Ford Bronco) This is the stock pan, notice the rust bubbles, they are way worse on the other side, I just couldn’t get a picture. (1995 Ford Bronco)
  2. Step 2

    Drain the oil. Remove the fan from the clutch so it cannot hit the shroud or the radiator once the engine moves.

    Step 1: Drain oil and you can see the oil on my front axle from the filter. (1995 Ford Bronco) Next I removed the fan from the clutch so it would not hit the shroud or radiator when I moved the engine. (1995 Ford Bronco)
  3. Step 3

    Apply plenty of heat and remove the nuts holding the crossover pipes to the exhaust manifolds. TRUCKY18 reports the nuts were two different sizes, a 15mm and a 16mm, and that one of them pulled the whole stud out.

    The, with lots of heat I removed t he nuts holding the crossover pipes on the exhaust manifolds. (1995 Ford Bronco) This one took the whole stud out, well poo. The nuts were 2 different sizes, a 15mm and 16mm. I thought that was weird?!? (1995 Ford Bronco)
  4. Step 4

    Unbolt the motor mounts from below, then jack the engine up with a piece of wood between the jack and whatever it lifts against. Raise it until the upper intake reaches the firewall, then wedge wood between the motor mounts and the cross member to hold it there; TRUCKY18 cut the wood to a custom size because no standard piece fit.

    Then I unbolted the motor mounts from below, that was easy as pie. (1995 Ford Bronco) Now that the engine mounts are un-bolted I can jack up the engine, make sure to use a piece of wood between where ever it is you jack it up… (1995 Ford Bronco) Jacked it up until the upper intake hit the fire wall. (1995 Ford Bronco) Next I jammed a piece of wood between the motor mounts and the cross member, I had to “custom” make the wood, cause it was not a normal siz… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  5. Step 5

    With the engine held up, unbolt the oil pan and the two bolts in the oil pump, one of them next to the harmonic balancer, and let the pump drop into the pan. Also remove the nut holding the pickup tube to the engine, about midway back.

    With the engine jacked up you can un-bolt the oil pan, and the oil pump. The oil pump has two bolts in it, one of them visible in this pict… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  6. Step 6

    Disconnect the exhaust where the muffler meets the cat and free the muffler from its hangers, then take off the transmission inspection plate. TRUCKY18 notes that doing this cleared enough room to pull the pan without removing the upper intake.

    Too get the pan out I had to disconnect my exhaust where the muffler meets the cat, not hard since I put a new cat back on 2 years ago. (1995 Ford Bronco) I also had to remove the muffler from its hangers. (1995 Ford Bronco) I also have to remove the inspection plate on the tranny, yes it was that close, but by disconnecting the exhaust and removing this piece;… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  7. Step 7

    With the pan out, inspect the bottom end of the engine and the stud the oil pickup attaches to. Clean the pickup tube even if nothing is lodged in it, as TRUCKY18 did.

    With the pan off you can inspect the bottom end of the motor, everything looked ship shape to me. You can see where the oil pick-up attache… (1995 Ford Bronco) The pump and the pick-up will still be attached when the pan come off, I thought it was easier to do it this way. Make sure you clean the p… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  8. Step 8

    Bolt the pickup to the new pump and clean every trace of the old gaskets off the mating surfaces. TRUCKY18 chose a Melling high flow pump, which came out twice as heavy and noticeably bigger than the stock unit, and advises looking at how the stock pump shaft seats in the distributor before taking it out.

    The old pump on the left and the new one on the right. I decided to get a Melling high flow pump to replace the stocker; I figure you can’t… (1995 Ford Bronco) Bolted the pick-up to the new pump, the little rod sticking out of the pump is the drive shaft for it, which runs off the distributor. If t… (1995 Ford Bronco) Bolted the pick-up to the new pump, the little rod sticking out of the pump is the drive shaft for it, which runs off the distributor. If t… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  9. Step 9

    Set the pump and pickup in the pan and turn the pump backwards by hand to prime it so the engine does not start dry.

    I set it all in the pan and ran the pump backwards by hand to prime it, don’t want to start up dry. (1995 Ford Bronco)
  10. Step 10

    Lay the gasket in place and lift the pan back up to the block, which is a tight fit. Bolt the oil pump and pickup in first, holding the heavier pump in position while starting a bolt and lining the pump shaft up with the distributor, then bolt the pan on and confirm the gasket seals all the way around.

    With the pump and pick-up in the pan, along with the gasket set in place throw it back up in place, it was a really tight fit, I guess beca… (1995 Ford Bronco) Now you have to bolt in the oil pump and pick-up. Easier said than done, because the oil pump was heavier it was a PAIN to hold it in place… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  11. Step 11

    Reconnect everything that was disconnected and test run the engine. TRUCKY18 ran it half an hour in the driveway and found no leaks other than a small one at the drain plug, which was not tightened fully.

    All bolted in, looks good. Now all left to do is reconnect everything and test run it. I ran it for a ½ hour in the driveway, not leaks acc… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  12. Step 12

    The photos end with TRUCKY18 standing in the driveway after the job. He says he had never been dirtier and was really sore the next day, and a sticker on the inside of the hood marks the project off his list.

    I have never been dirtier in my life, not to mention really sore the next day. (1995 Ford Bronco) With a sticker on the inside of the hood, I mark the project off my list. (1995 Ford Bronco)

Some product links go to the supplier the owner bought from. SuperMotors does not earn a commission today; if that changes, this line will say so and creators will be paid from it.