T-case Clock & Pump Stay Arm

I think this will be a better (and cheaper) way to clock the t-case than buying a ring. This is my Bronco's ORIGINAL ('83) NP208F, which gr… Owner Using an old trashed t-case as a template, I redrilled the tailhousing to clock the t-case up closer to the body so the skidplate wouldn't… Owner This is slightly higher than I intended, but I'll check it with the body in-place on the poly mounts. [url=https://www.supermotors.net/regi… Owner It's certainly closer than I wanted, but with poly body & trans mounts, that's probably ENOUGH clearance. [url=https://www.supermotors.net/… Owner It's certainly closer than I wanted, but with poly body & trans mounts, that's probably ENOUGH clearance. [url=https://www.supermotors.net/… Owner I forgot that the poly trans mount had melted slightly, and that I had replaced one engine mount since then. So the powertrain is rotated s… Owner I loosened both engine mounts & neutralized them (using my JY torsion bar converted to a 6' prybar) to settle the trans mount, then retight… Owner Now the trans is sitting flat on the mount bar, so the L side of the clocked t-case will be a little lower (farther from the floor). The po… Owner This should be plenty of clearance, and if it's not quite enough, I'll add a shim washer to each body mount, &/or remove some from between… Owner There's more clearance above the t-case than above these frame bolts, so I doubt the t-case will ever hit the floor. [url=https://www.super… Owner Looks OK to me. Now, it all has to come back out for gaskets, and to open the t-case to inspect the pump stay arm. Owner Rather than follow the published procedure, I'm trying this shortcut to inspect/repair the pump stay arm without any extra disassembly. If… Owner Before pulling it all the way apart and dumping pieces everywhere, I took a good look. I can see the pump at the far end, and its tube cros… Owner The filter screen looks good, and I've collected the magnet that was in the same case groove as the filter base. It has no major buildup, e… Owner The rust on this gear's shaft isn't serious - it probably happened in the past month after I drained the fluid & then left the t-case sitti… Owner The planetary shift fork (top) got hung up & dislodged the shift rail, but nothing fell on the ground. It looks like it'll be fairly easy t… Owner No chunks on the magnet or in the case, so that's good. The spring for the 2-4 shift fork (background) isn't damaged. Owner This half also looks fine, other than the worn rib for the pump stay arm at the Right near the top of the photo. Owner This is the important part. The pump stay arm has barely worn into the case rib. If it was much worse, I'd clean the case & JBWeld it. But… Owner The shift fork pads look like-new. Owner The 2-4 fork & shift rail are back in place, ready for reassembly. Owner The planetary fork is where it belongs, but it may take some effort to align the shift rail through it into the pocket in the case when thi… Owner This is the pad I'm adding. It's just some thick plastic (left over from another project) which will keep the steel stay arm from touching… Owner The stay arm is too long to place this here now - I'll have to insert it as I assemble the casehalves, at the same time I'm aligning the sh… Owner Cutting the pad this way allows it to hang on the tip of the arm, making re-assembly easier. Owner After a LOT of fiddling, juggling, tapping, bumping, twisting, cursing, shifting, and smearing the sealant, I managed to get the shift shaf… Owner