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1995 Ford Bronco 2.5 Inch Tuff Country Lift Install

1995 Ford Bronco · Install · Hard

Documented by SuperMotors from TRUCKY18’s photos

A 2.5 inch Tuff Country lift with extended radius arms goes onto a 1995 Ford Bronco, front and rear. The rear is raised with a Pro-comp add-a-leaf in place of the kit's blocks, and the front gets new coils, relocated radius arm brackets and new axle pivot drop brackets.

  1. Step 1

    Start with a Tuff Country 2.5 inch kit with extended radius arms, which includes blocks for the rear. TRUCKY18 set those blocks aside and used a Pro-comp 2.5 inch add-a-leaf instead, and notes the front end sagged considerably before the lift.

    Here it is before the lift; notice the considerable front end sag. (1995 Ford Bronco) Here is the Kit. It is a Tuff Country 2.5 inch kit with extended radius arms. It came with blocks for the rear, which I did not use. All of… (1995 Ford Bronco) This is what I decided to use in place of the blocks. It is a 2.5 inch add-a-leaf by Pro-comp. It is designed to go with there 4 inch kit f… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  2. Step 2

    At the rear, unbolt the U-bolts, grind off the upper rivet head and drop the axle. TRUCKY18 skipped the kit instruction to remove the whole leaf pack, and freed the factory alignment clamp by pulling the bottom leaf out and the others sideways until the bracket bent and the set came off.

    Here are the rear leaves as they came from the factory. (1995 Ford Bronco) The kit said you needed to take the whole leaf pack off to put the add-a-leaf in but I did not see why, I just un-bolted the U bolts, groun… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  3. Step 3

    Grind the head off the rivet holding the factory alignment clamp to the second smallest leaf and remove the clamp. Clean the leaves with a wire brush, grease the plastic ends and fit them together with the add-a-leaf, which goes just under the large leaf still attached to the truck.

    Here are the factory leaves, the add-a-leaf fit in just under the large one still attached to the truck. The second smallest one had the fa… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  4. Step 4

    Drop the axle just far enough to get the leaves in, line everything up and compress the pack with a 9 inch C-clamp, then bolt it together with the new bolt supplied with the kit. TRUCKY18 had to clear rust and metal from inside the factory shim with an angle rotary tool and a conical bit, because the new bolt head is significantly deeper than the factory rivet.

    I dropped the axle just enough so that I could get the leaf’s in, after I got everything lined up correctly I used a 9” C-clamp to compress… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  5. Step 5

    Compress the top three leaves with the 9 inch C-clamp and hold each new alignment clamp in place with a 4 inch C-clamp. Bend the tabs over with a hammer.

    To finish putting the leaf’s together I used the 9” C-clamp and a 4” C-clamp to compress the top three leaves and put on the new alignment… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  6. Step 6

    Re-bolt the U-bolts and torque them back to factory specs, then change the shock. TRUCKY18 reports the shock took nearly as long as the add-a-leaf, and was surprised by the amount of lift the rear gained.

    After the leaf’s were re-assembled all was left to do was re-bolt the U-bolts and torque them back to factory specs. I also changed the sho… (1995 Ford Bronco) Here’s a picture with the tire back on, I was surprised at the amount of lift it gave me (1995 Ford Bronco)
  7. Step 7

    Move to the front and remove the nerf bars, which have to go to make way for the new extended radius arm brackets. TRUCKY18 notes the AutoZone front shock was already visibly worn at about 4000 miles.

    Here’s the front before I started, notice the wear on the crapy AutoZone shock that has about 4000 miles on it. (1995 Ford Bronco) A picture of the nerf bars that would have to go to make way for the new extended radius arm brackets. (1995 Ford Bronco)
  8. Step 8

    Remove the coil and coil seat to reach the large stud that holds the top of the radius arm and the lower coil retainer, then heat the bottom of the stud with a propane torch inside the TTB arm and drive it off with a 1 1/8 inch extra deep socket and an impact wrench. TRUCKY18 soaked the parts with PB Blaster for 2 days beforehand, gave up on a wrench after about an hour, and reports the old coil was worn enough to compress about 3 inches under full weight.

    Removing the coil was not to bad, used a lot of PB blaster the 2 days before I started and it helped a lot, I would recommend that to any o… (1995 Ford Bronco) New spring next to old, not a huge difference but the old one was so warn it would compress about 3” once the full weight was put on it. (1995 Ford Bronco)
  9. Step 9

    Grind the tops off the old radius arm mount rivets, remove the old mounts, measure 15 inches back and clamp the new mount in place. Hold the brake line up clear of the bracket with a small plastic D clip.

    The new mounts foe the radius arms are to be mounted 15” back from where the old ones were attached. It was not very easy to get the old mo… (1995 Ford Bronco) Here is one of the new arms mounted on the Truck. Notice the cam adjusting bolt on the pivot point of the new radius arm. The Tuff Country… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  10. Step 10

    Reassemble the front with the new radius arms, whose pivots use a greaseable bolt in a poly bushing with a cam adjusting bolt in place of the Ford style bushing; TRUCKY18 reports plenty of slack left in the factory brake lines. Unbolt the 4 bolts holding each old axle pivot bracket and fit the new drop bracket, reusing the old pivot arm hole and bolt and drilling a new 1/2 inch hole for the grade 5 bolt that came with the kit.

    Here is the front put back together with out shocks, and I still had plenty of slack in the factory brake lines. (1995 Ford Bronco) This is the passenger’s side pivot arm bracket, it was fairly easy, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the old one on, and bolt this one up in it… (1995 Ford Bronco) This is the driver’s side axle pivot mount, funny looking little thing (1995 Ford Bronco) Here is the new drop bracket installed. I had to use the old hole for the pivot arm and the old bolt to re-mount the bracket, the other bol… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  11. Step 11

    Strip the driver's side the same way, then unbolt the fuel line holder from the frame and zip tie it, along with the parking brake wire, clear of the drill bit. With the new bracket on, drill 2 new holes and move the fuel line holder up toward the engine, bending it slightly so it clears the top of the frame and the fuel lines do not rub the kick-down on the transmission.

    This is the driver’s side with everything removed, went a lot faster since I knew what I was doing. (1995 Ford Bronco) The driver’s side radius arm bracket was not as easy as the passenger side, because the fuel lines, parking brake wire, and 2 wire looms of… (1995 Ford Bronco) Same for the parking brake wire. After I got the new bracket on I had to drill 2 new holes for the fuel line holder and move it up towards… (1995 Ford Bronco)
  12. Step 12

    The photos end with the Bronco reassembled and back on the ground, with the last 2 shocks still to be mounted and an alignment still to be done. TRUCKY18 netted 5.5 inches of lift, more than expected, because the front had been sagging so much.

    Here it is reassembled and back on the ground, I was still waiting on some of the shocks, but I took the picture anyway. I ended up netting… (1995 Ford Bronco)

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