Owww...

Odo 299,062.2mi

This is what the PO did to it shortly after buying it - an open storm drain in a busy street caused him to hit a large power pole. The pole didn't fare much better - about 1/3 of Memphis was without power for the rest of that day.

Since he had no use for it, and his replacement needs some work, he's trading me this carcass for the labor.

I'm not sure I'm getting such a good deal...

The carcass is ready to roll gently down the hill onto the trailer.

Loaded & ready to roll!

Some moron in a Mercedes assumed he could cut me off, and actually got offended that I didn't let him. He must have been blind to think that I might even consider avoiding hitting his dumb ass.

I hope to have it stripped in a couple of weeks.

The WP hub shouldn't be this close to the housing...

...and the back of the crank pulley should be flat.

Well, THERE'S your problem! Fortunately, the oil came out clean, so virtually no coolant went into the crankcase before the engine stopped. The pressure went out the radiator's lower nipple, which broke off & tore the hose.

Since I'll have to drop the pan to install the new (MotorCraft F6TP-6019-NA; Dorman 635-100) timing cover, I'll just re-seal the whole engine: valve covers, intake, pan, timing cover, F&R mains, & water pump (also new MC PW254). It'll also get a Fumoto oil drain valve.

This shouldn't be too hard to extract. I'll soak it with penetrant until I'm ready to pull the intake for new gaskets.

In addition to the folded frame & punctured timing cover, the axle is twisted due to the front crossmember being mashed back. The driveshaft & yoke hit the frame & bent it down.

Timing cover original casting number: RF-F6TE-6059-JB
Replacement PN: F6TZ-6019-NA
Dorman 635-100

Water pump: Motorcraft F3TZ-8501-C (PW-254)

Misfire sensor & tone ring behind the harmonic balancer ('96-only) on a 5.8L (5.0L same; 4.9L similar).

All the safety features worked: seat belts, airbag, and even the telescoping steering column, which slid forward off its rear (cast-Aluminum) mounts, bending its front (rusty steel) mount.

The column is so far forward that the shifter wouldn't go into park.

After several rounds of PurplePower, Dawn, & water hose, the carpets are clean enough to be vacuumed so they can go into the replacement Bronco. No need to cut up more carpets for the same cage.

These are most of the tags on the truck.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The one I forgot to label below the frame & above the camper is the ignition capacitor (F6UZ18832AA).

Instrument cluster tag (made by Altec)

The top line of text abbreviations means:
RPO - regular production option (tachometer & gauges)
MPH - (US mph; not Canada kph)
UFO - unleaded fuel only (not diesel or bi-fuel)
6000 RPM (not diesel tach or Lightning tach)

Odo 299,062.2mi

This dipstick is substantially longer than the one on my '93, making it much easier to reach. But the joint in the tube doesn't appear to be water-tight. I'll check for contamination from my pressure-washing later.

This FDM appears to have been replaced after 2003 (probably under the recall), and then the reservoir with pump motor inside was replaced later and butt-spliced onto the internal wires. The fuel lines don't have the recall-type check valves, or the pulse damper (which would be near the engine).

Rear axle tag

S838M (Sterling axle plant; internal coding)
3 55 88 5L21 (3.55 ratio, open diff; 8.8" axle; 1995 December 21)

Odo 299,062.2mi

Some friends helped me flip the body off the frame so I could dismantle the chassis.

Some friends helped me flip the body off the frame so I could dismantle the chassis.

The impact was so hard that these mounts (#2 L&RHS) bent forward, evidenced by the wider gap at the rear (right of picture).

The impact was so hard that this mount (#3 LHS) bent forward, evidenced by the spalled paint near the frame at the front & rear corners.

Coincidentally (I don't think it's crash-related), this body mount sleeve is seized. I couldn't knock it apart with an 8# sledge, which is why the bolt head is so mushroomed.

Engine RHS just after flipping the body off.

T-case RHS just after flipping the body off.

Tank & axle RHS just after flipping the body off.

Engine LHS just after flipping the body off.

T-case LHS just after flipping the body off.

Tank & axle LHS just after flipping the body off.

'96 5.8L Engine Vacuum Harness (no 2ndry air or MAP)

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'96 5.8L Engine Wiring Harness

Chassis front just after pressure-washing.

Before:


GO TO THE NEXT SEVERAL PAGES...

Engine RHS just after pressure-washing.

Before:

Trans & t-case RHS just after pressure-washing.

Before:

Tank & axle RHS just after pressure-washing.

Before:

Engine LHS just after pressure-washing.

Before:


Note that it still has the red (flaming) SCDS on the master cylinder.

Trans & t-case LHS just after pressure-washing.

Before:

Tank & axle LHS just after pressure-washing.

Before:

Emptying the tank into mine, using an old fuel pump (probably from a Crown Vic tank), the battery pack from my cheapo cordless impact, & some old Bronco fuel lines.

It's getting close...

I couldn't hammer this body mount sleeve apart, so I soaked it for a few days and then hammered it together. ...a little too hard, I guess.

The rear main & bore plugs look OK, so I'll probably leave the seal alone.

I assume that's the block SN just below the LHS head, but it's too rusty to read.

That's a little dab of orange paint at the 1:30 position indicating the flexplate alignment on the crank hub.

After the last of the oil drains out, I'll pull the manifolds, timing cover, & pan; and paint everything like I did the '93's engine.

The exhaust manifold has to come off to get the broken bolt out, so I'll pull both & sandblast/paint them like the '93's engine.

With the front suspension unloaded, I was able to flip the exhaust to work it over the axle, and slide it out the front of the frame. The bolts at the muffler flange are rust-siezed, so I plan to grind the heads off, soak them in penetrant for a week, and then extract them.



I plan to remove most of the usable frame brackets by grinding the rivet heads off & air-hammering the rivets through.

After that, I'll cut up the frame & scrap it.

The L axle beam is substantially bent, but the R looks OK.

I had to use my thinnest open wrench to back up the exhaust shield nuts. 2 of the bolts were broken.

Distributor tag & drive gear for roller cam.

Eventually, I taped off the tag & gear, sandblasted the Aluminum, and clearcoated it before installation.

The missing chunk of timing cover was resting on the splash shelf. The milk in the oil pan is just from the pressure washing. See the NEXT several pics...

The timing cover gasket was on the verge of failure, indicated by the corrosion around the coolant journals.

I was amazed to find these original valve cover gaskets are steel, with just a thin inner lip of rubber. They adhered VERY well to the covers & heads. I'm seriously considering reusing them, if I can't buy identical replacements. The intake gaskets were graphite, which I know I can buy (Mahle MS15202W). The end seals were molded rubber, which is also tempting to reuse.

Note the valley spider for the roller lifters.

The front 2 intake manifold bolts broke off due to rust.



Turns out these valve cover gaskets (Mahle VS50203) ARE still available, but I reused these anyway, after cleaning & painting the steel frames.

The chain has barely any more slack than a new one would. Probably less than 2 degrees.

Odo 299,062.2mi

The oil pump pickup was clear, but it's also clean now. The oil pan gasket appears to be reusable. But there are still 2 broken bolts in each head that I have to extract...

I cut these bolt heads off so there would be more to work with when I try to extract them. But first, they'll soak in penetrant for a week or 3...

After spraying this Dorman 635-100 with DupliColor DE1650, I put some Hylomar on the (supplied) front main & tapped it in. Then I sprayed CopperCoat on its block face and stuck the (supplied) gasket on. I laid it on a flat surface to hold the gasket flat while the Copper Coat dried. Another good sealant would have been Permatex 20539 Indian Head Shellac.

Drilling a hole into this blind boss to let some penetrating oil soak for a few days paid off. This bolt was the easiest (of the 8 that broke on this truck) to extract because it was sticking out enough to grab with vise-grips, and simply back out. Each of the others required substantially more work...

. .

I've been procrastinating, but today I went after these intake bolts. They've been soaking in penetrant for about a week, from both sides, but they're still too tight to drive out. So I'm starting with a die grinder to flatten the top faces, a center punch, & a 1/8" drill.

See the NEXT five pics...

I drilled through, to check that the hole was centered & aligned, and stepped up 1/32" at a time to 1/4", which I drilled left-handed.

See the PREVious & NEXT few pics...

Unfortunately, the bolt still didn't unscrew, but it was so thin that most of the bolt thread peeled out of the head's threads.

See the PREVious & NEXT few pics...

I chased the remaining bolt thread & corrosion out with a tap, and cleaned the pocket at the top.

See the PREVious & NEXT few pics...

The driver's side bolt sheared at an angle, making it harder to find center. I had to dig the corrosion out of the pocket first, die-grind the top flat, punch center, and then drill as before.

See the PREVious & NEXT few pics...

The hole was very slightly off-center near the bottom, but not enough to damage the head. The bolt will still hold well.

See the PREVious five pics...

After a few days soaking with penetrant, I punched, drilled, & extracted the 2 ex.man. bolts that had sheared. These Irwin straight-flute extractors are good, but they only seem to work once. Next time, I'll buy the square-body type, or Rennsteigs. These Cobalt bits are a vast improvement over my old (ab-)used LH bits, but I still want to get new LH bits.

These '96 water pump bolts are slightly different from the '93's. The pump is a new Ford F3TZ-8501-C, aka MotorCraft PW254.



The plumbing sticking out the side will allow me to swap to a true oil pressure sender (Standard PS60) by adding a jumper wire to the back of the cluster.

Original high-temperature studs & nuts aren't available now, so I'll be using these Dorman 03135 after I sandblast & paint the manifolds, & have them planed.

See also:


UPDATE: Ford has begun offering this hardware new again. The stud is 391104-S2 and the nut is 375636-S7 or 375636-S437.

New Motorcraft SP-501 plugs, of course. These are ASF-32P, as specified on the VECI label.

I didn't realize this grommet would be chinese when I ordered it, but my local Ford doesn't sell it (possibly E7AZ-6A892-A).
0.715 In. ID x 1.440 In. OD x 0.493 In. Thk.

The PCV valve is MotorCraft EV-68, and it's in the revised configuration (above the valve cover).

These have been soaking for a couple of months, but they were still tight. 2 came out this way...

See the NEXT pic.

Even after a couple months in PB Blaster, one sheared & required drilling before going out forward.

The fuel rail is pretty scruffy, so...

I polished the chrome & stainless (FPR) with fine steel wool, and clearcoated the chrome with DE1636. I rinsed the injectors with carb cleaner, polished the bodies, oiled the O-rings, and stabbed them back in.

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After sandblasting, planing, painting (Rustoleum High Heat Silver), & new flange hardware (cheapo aftermarket because there were no others at the time); I applied red silicone & installed the manifolds. This one is significantly warped - the front port is noticeably higher on the head than the other 3, which necessitated torching its top to make it bend down so I could install the last bolt (388469-S).

None of the bolts have been torqued in this pic; they're all very loose, except the center one in the small hole is barely snug.

Eventually, I got all the exhaust manifold bolts in (with nickel anti-seize) & torqued. Then I added the heat shields & accessory nuts.

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The oil pressure port is extended using common plumbing parts (I may swap to a factory extension or this stainless reproduction) in preparation for an older sender (Standard PS60) so the gauge will actually work.

The distributor body was sandblasted & clearcoated, but I need to clean the cap & probably replace the wires. The MAF body was also blasted & cleared (NOT the sensor).

The oil fill cap is a new MotorCraft EC-743 (F3AZ-6766-B).

The harmonic balancer was also sandblasted & painted. Then its sealing surface was wire-wheeled clean again, and lubed before installation. Its pulley is new, like the WP, TC, t'stat cover, & spark plugs. But the oil pan gasket & valve cover gaskets are the original (reusable) '96 parts.

Eventually, I got all the bolts in (with nickel anti-seize) & torqued. Then I added the heat shields & accessory nuts.

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These aftermarket flange studs & brass nuts are the best I could find so far, but I'm exploring some Ford parts...



...or maybe...
Y-pipe flange stud 20JS1804-D3

After mounting the plenum, the throttle body (carefully sandblasted & clearcoated) went on with a new gasket.

Original '96 5.8L IAC (F4TE-9F715-AA) built 1996 Feb. 07 3rd shift 1st line

Original '96 5.8L MAF sensor (F5UF-12B579-BA, built 1996 Feb.19 - 2nd shift) & venturi

One of the screw heads (Tamper Torx 15) is epoxy-filled to prevent removal of the sensor from the body.

Possible replacement PN: MotorCraft AFLS186RM (reman)

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0102 indicates the MAF signal went below 0.39 volts (refer to «Voltage to Mass Air Flow Conversion Table» below this Pinpoint Test) sometime during normal engine operation (Continuous) or during Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Possible causes:
-- Damaged MAF sensor.
-- MAF sensor disconnected.
-- MAF circuit open.
-- VPWR circuit open.
-- PWR GND circuit open.
-- MAF RTN circuit open.
-- MAF circuit shorted to ground.
-- Air Intake Leak (near MAF sensor).
-- Throttle Position (TP) system (possible closed throttle indication).
-- Damaged PCM.

l Check broken/loose air outlet tube clamps (throttle body and air cleaner assembly ends), cracks/holes in air outlet tube, worn gaskets between MAF sensor and air cleaner assembly. Service as necessary.
l Start engine and bring to idle.
NOTE: If a KOER DTC P0505 is present, go to Section 5A, «Powertrain Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Charts». For A/T vehicles, if the engine stalls and cannot maintain an idle, go to «DC9».
l Run engine up 1500 rpm for 5 seconds, then bring it back to idle.
l Access MAF V PID (MAF PID) with a Scan Tool.
l Is the MAF V PID (MAF PID) less than 0.39 volts (refer to «Voltage to Mass Air Flow Conversion Table» at beginning of this Pinpoint Test)?

Yes
The MAF SIG voltage is lower than acceptable minimum. GO to «DC7».

No
For KOER reading between 0.60 and 1.00 volt (refer to «Voltage to Mass Air Flow Conversion Table» below this Pinpoint Test): GO to «DC15».
All others: GO to «DC2».

Voltage - 0.34 - 0.39 - 0.60 - 1.00 - 1.96 - 3.90
F-Series - 1.68 - 1.93 - 3.32 - 8.43 - 28.97 - 151.44gm/sec

Now that my sandblaster is working so well, I finished the accessory brackets, pulleys, & Saginaw. I painted the tensioner's LH-threaded bolt head yellow.

Odo 299,062.2mi

It's a cool rainy day, so I put the exterior wiring harness sections outside, and washed them with PurplePower. I could pressure-wash them, but I assume it would blast off most of the wrapping. So I'll just leave them outside for a few more rain/PP/rinse cycles.

My new toy is a 660-lb (300 kg) digital hanging scale, which is interesting to use on the larger parts. I never lifted weights, so I didn't realize how much I had been doing by hand.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Odo 299,062.2mi

UPDATE: The dolly only has steel reinforcements under the long sides, so my wood structure on top isn't built quite right. Because the F&R 2x6 plates don't reach over the wheels, the dolly is sagging slightly from the weight of the engine. I should have made those plates slightly longer - all the way across the dolly's short sides.

Most of the body tub is going to the scrapyard, on top of most of the frame, and most of the '94 Crown Vic, along with some other metal.

After dumping this load, I stripped the trailer, pressure-washed it a few times, straightened it, cut off some garbage, doubled its floor joists, replaced the wheelwell, added cages for the taillights,repainted it, rewired it, bought new tires, and installed a new wood floor.