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Affordable Holley four-barrel performance rebuild kits from Quick Fuel Technology

[b]Story a...

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Start with a good carb cleaner, such as Justice Brothers, to remove built up gunk and dirt.

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With the exterior and individual bores of the carb clean we are ready to start removing the old part...

qft04.jpg
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This plastic choke unit is old and brittle, so we will be replacing it with a metal one form another...

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To remove the vacuum secondary, first remove the c-clip attaching the connecting rod to the secondar...

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With the choke, screws and clip removed, pull the old vacuum solenoid away from the main body. Ther...

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The secondary bowl was a little more stubborn, but by prying between the connector tube port and the...

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The new QFT adjustable vacuum solenoid is held to the main body with the three original screws. This...

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The metering blocks can be a real hassle to remove. We were able to get this one off using a large s...

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An old throttle body gasket can cause vacuum leaks and tuning problems. To replace it, remove the th...

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Each rebuild kit contains gaskets for several sizes of carburetor, make sure to use the right size f...

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Since we are converting this carb to have two metering blocks, the original secondary metering plate...

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With the plates off, the gaskets will need to be removed. The new QFT gaskets are coated with floro...

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We chose to install #72 jets in the primary metering block and #80 in the new secondary block. Quick...

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Here are the two blocks together, since only the primary side of this carb is getting a power valve,...

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Compared side-by-side, the original power valve can't begin to match the flow of QFT's Four Door pow...

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Install the power valve into the primary metering block using the non-stick gasket from the rebuild ...

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Pre-install the gaskets on the metering block before mounting the block to the main body. The gaske...

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When rebuilding an older carb, it's a good idea to change the accelerator pump diaphragm, to access ...

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Here you can see the old rotted diaphragm next to the new QFT 30cc diaphragm.

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The new diaphragm installs on top of the return spring.

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Start each screw by hand then tighten gradually in a cross pattern to avoid distorting the diaphragm...

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Guide the gasket and metering block into place on the body before you install the float bowls. Be s...

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Hold the float bowls and metering blocks in position and start the four bolts by hand. New bolt seal...

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The old needle and seat is removed by freeing this screw and then turning the nut to unscrew the ass...

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Install the new needle and seat assemblies by simply dropping them into the holes and pressing light...

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The original connector tube wont be long enough to reach the secondary bowl after we add the new sec...

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Install the secondary bowl and metering block with the new gaskets. Be sure the connector tube seats...

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This screw allows adjustment of the vacuum secondary. If adjusted correctly, it will open smoothly w...