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01C2.JPG | Hits: 3226 | Size: 100.57 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


I've never understood why Ford put the noisy, weak C2 pump on F-series & Broncos, but the venerable Saginaw on Econolines. In any case, it's an easy swap if you find a Saginaw from a similar engine (V or inline) with the same style belt. This one on a 5.8L Bronco is being replaced for the typical grinding noise, even though it still seems to work.

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In any case, adding a filter (Raybestos Magnefine 3/8" 515554 or 3810000) is a wise move:

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Always use the correct fluid:
http://www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-TransmissionFluids.aspx

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Squeeze.JPG | Hits: 2180 | Size: 88.68 KB | Posted on: 7/9/12 | Link to this image


Before disconnecting the lines from any pump, I remove most of the PS fluid.

http://www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-TransmissionFluids.aspx

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02Compare.JPG | Hits: 2638 | Size: 107.3 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


The brackets are virtually identical, and the pressure hose MIGHT be interchangeable, but I always get both hoses with the pump just to be sure. Before I removed this Sag, I checked that it still had clean fluid in the reservoir. After I pulled it, I spun the pulley to make sure it was smooth & that only clear fluid came out in a steady stream. Then I dumped the reservoir to check for trash. Everything looked good, so I took the chance of buying it.



The tools needed to get a V8 Saginaw at the JY include:
15mm combination (for the belt tensioner)
10mm or 13mm socket (for the 4 compressor bolts)
9/16 socket (for the 3 bracket bolts)
1/2 & 5/8 combination or flarenut wrenches (for the lines)

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03Compare.JPG | Hits: 3305 | Size: 70.96 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


The tools to remove the C2 pump are the same, except the 1/2 combination isn't necessary because the line fittings are both 5/8. I chose to use the truck's original return line (since it has a cooler loop), so I also needed to remove the return hose clamp from the reservoir nipple (capped in the pic). I also removed the wiring brace from the Sag & discarded it.

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The way I pulled them is:
1) remove the intake hoses, and the belt from the A/C & P/S pullies
2) remove the clutch connector & the 4 compressor bolts, then set the compressor back
3) remove the 3 bracket bolts (release the wiring from the bracket on the back of the Sag) and set the assembly on the frame rail behind the steering box
4) remove the lines & lift the pump/bracket out
5) reverse for installation

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Remember that I can't test these JY pumps without fully installing & driving them, so I DON'T. Think of the pump as a core to be traded in at a parts store when you buy a reman. If the JY pump works when you install it, you don't have to buy that reman for a few years. But I'm only selling the bracket, hoses, & bolts.

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SagParts.jpg | Hits: 1188 | Size: 64.72 KB | Posted on: 8/21/19 | Link to this image


Saginaw Swap Parts

V8 pressure hose Gates 359470 or ACDelco 36-359470
I6 pressure hose Gates 358570 or ACDelco 36-358570
Saginaw pump Cardone 20-7878

Adding a filter (Raybestos Magnefine 3/8" 515554 or 3810000) is a wise move:

.

For more info, read all the other captions in this photo album by clicking NEXT at the top Left of this photo, or by switching to the full album view and scrolling down.

Contrast C2 pump brackets:
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04Out.JPG | Hits: 2616 | Size: 106.75 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


It's relatively quick & simple to pull the compressor off the bracket, then pull the bracket WITH pump off the engine.

This is a good opportunity to convert to an oil pressure sender, but the owner of this truck wasn't interested in that mod right now. Pay attention to the oil sender wire (crossing the oil filter) so it doesn't get pinched during installation, or misrouted between the timing cover & Sag bracket.

There's no coolant leak - I swapped the gauge sender a few minutes ago.

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05Lines.JPG | Hits: 2351 | Size: 99.48 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


It's much easier to work on the V8 lines with the pump behind the steering box.

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06In.JPG | Hits: 2252 | Size: 103.61 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


Bolt everything down, put the belt & clutch connector back on, fill the reservoir with Type F (for pumps from '98-older vans), check for belt interference, and start it up. I had to tie the upper hose back slightly. This pump is silent compared to the C2.

If the pump foams, cycle the steering wheel lock-to-lock a couple of times at idle keeping the fluid level topped off in the reservoir, then shut the engine off for ~30min, and try again.



A pump from a '98-up van probably uses MerconV, but few of them have Saginaw pumps (because they have modular engines - not smallblock V8s).

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07Back.JPG | Hits: 2183 | Size: 88.7 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


The original return line is barely long enough. If the driver's engine mount is broken, this line will probably pull off, so check it. Adding a filter & a short hose would eliminate that problem. In any case, adding a filter (Raybestos Magnefine 3/8" 515554 or 3810000) is a wise move:

.

That 15mm nut held the van wiring bracket. It's a crimped nut, so it shouldn't vibrate off, even though it looks loose. It's not needed, but it'll keep knuckles away from the stud threads.


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08Belt.JPG | Hits: 2138 | Size: 92.76 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


A slightly longer belt is required due to the larger Sag pulley. I haven't checked yet, but the van belt should fit. Installing a new belt is MUCH easier than transferring the original pulley (if it would even fit this shaft). Be sure to check for belt interference before starting the engine - this upper hose needs to be tied back.

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Puller1.JPG | Hits: 2463 | Size: 54.33 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


For most PS pump changes (using an original-style reman pump), removing the pulley is a prerequisite, and it's a nightmare using the wrong tools. This is the RIGHT kind, and the only kind I've found that works reliably. This set will remove & install most P/S pullies of most brands. It's available from most professional tool trucks, and this set's case is labelled Matco. But the identical set can be had from Snap-On, Mac, Cornwell, etc.

I've labelled the parts so I know what size wrench to use.

The bolt in the bottom center is the cheapo installer that's provided with most pumps. I only keep it to chase threads & for temporary jobs - it's risky to use it because it's so easy to break.

Note that the center of the pump shaft has been packed with mud by a wasp. That has to be washed out thoroughly before beginning. I'll install a bolt there later to prevent it from happening again.

GO TO THE NEXT SEVERAL IMAGES...

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Puller2.JPG | Hits: 2121 | Size: 85.75 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


To remove a pulley, first ENSURE the threads are clean & smooth all the way in, and apply a light coat of oil so the tools don't seize. Note the depth of the pulley hub to the pump shaft for proper installation later. Most have the face of the pulley hub perfectly flush with the end of the pump shaft. Then set the 2 clamshell halves around the silver drive hub and the pulley's hub groove. Then thread in the main shaft with the appropriate tip. I commonly use the button tip since most Ford shafts aren't threaded all the way out. If yours is, use one of the deep UNthreaded tips to protect the threads.

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Puller3.JPG | Hits: 2095 | Size: 61.64 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


Even with these good tools, it takes a LOT of effort, so use long wrenches. Grease on the main shaft threads will reduce your effort, & the strain on the tools.

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Puller4.JPG | Hits: 2137 | Size: 82.4 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


As the main shaft threads in, it pushes the pump shaft out of the pulley's steel hub.

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Puller5.JPG | Hits: 2108 | Size: 85.49 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


Eventually, the pulley falls off the pump shaft. Note how little of the tool's main shaft threads are left exposed.

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Puller6.JPG | Hits: 2046 | Size: 82.62 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


Before installing the pulley, make sure the shaft's inside threads are totally clean & free of burrs or grit that might cause the tool to bind. Chase them all the way to the bottom - if the install tool breaks and you have to drill it with a normal RH bit, it will spin to the bottom of the well.

If using a junkyard pump, this step is critical since this is a popular spot for mud-dauber wasps.

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Puller7.JPG | Hits: 2043 | Size: 91.75 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


With any installer, it's critical to grease all the working surfaces with clean EP grease, including the nut threads AND those inside the pump shaft. If the tool breaks, the grease inside will make extracting the broken tip MUCH easier.

I don't recommend using this type of bolt/nut/washer installer because they usually break, but if you do, make sure there's grease between the nut & washer, and in the nut threads.

Never lubricate the pump shaft or the pulley, but baking the pulley might make it easier to install.

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Puller8.JPG | Hits: 2126 | Size: 79.46 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


This tool is much more reliable. Install the greased stud by hand, then stack the greased thrust bearing between the washers on the tool's main shaft. Make sure the tool's inside threads are clean & greased. Never lubricate the pump shaft or the pulley. Set the pulley onto the pump shaft and then thread the tool main shaft onto the stud.

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Puller9.JPG | Hits: 2063 | Size: 87.47 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


Getting the tool started correctly is tricky because the pump shaft will rotate more easily than the tool drive hub. But it's critical to NEVER allow the drive hub to spin the pump shaft in relation to the tool shaft because that will UNscrew the tool's stud. I usually hold the pulley and turn the drive hub. Frequently, I back off the drive hub and make sure the tool shaft is still fully threaded onto the stud.

It's easy to press the pulley too far, so check the pump shaft depth as the pulley approches the bracket. The most common setting is for the pulley hub to be flush with the end of the pump shaft, but note this relation BEFORE removing the pulley. If you're not sure and the pump is installed on the engine, sight along the other pullies and adjust this one as needed. If you push it too far, pull it back a little.

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11C2.JPG | Hits: 1930 | Size: 97.98 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


Now that I'm a master , I'll change the noisy pump on my own 4.9L truck. My Sag has only been sitting around for ~6mo since I pulled it in the JY.
SEE THE NEXT SEVERAL CAPTIONS...

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12Sag.JPG | Hits: 1976 | Size: 110.17 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


I pulled this in a JY, took the pump off, sandblasted & clearcoated the bracket (EN: F5UE-19E708-BA), cleaned the pulley, and put it back together. The bolt is just to keep trash out of the pump shaft threads.


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13Out.JPG | Hits: 2040 | Size: 108.89 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


For whatever reason, everything is more difficult on the smaller engine: more tools, more time, more work, more grime... The upper bolts are 1/2"; the lower nuts are 11/16" (and their studs came out for me); the P/S box fitting is 5/8"; the 5 compressor bolts are 10mm; the air tube clamps are 8mm; and the tensioner takes a 3/8" square. I used a 3' extension to go thru the wheelwell to the bracket's lower nuts. Apparently, some early 4.9Ls use shorter studs that may not be long enough to reach through the later Saginaw bracket. I'm going to try to research that issue...

I guess I need to change that side cover gasket sometime...


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14Out.JPG | Hits: 1829 | Size: 91.29 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


On the 4.9L, I found it easier to disconnect the pressure line from the box BEFORE unbolting the P/S bracket from the block. The return line also needed a slight bend forward & inboard to allow enough slack to reach the Sag reservoir's nipple.

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15Hole.JPG | Hits: 1736 | Size: 86.38 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


This hole isn't threaded for van 4.9Ls, and it's necessary to support the pickup/Bronco throttle cable bracket.

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16Tap.JPG | Hits: 1664 | Size: 83.9 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


Fortunately, it's already sized (5/16") for a 3/8-16 tap, so threading it only took a couple of minutes.

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17In.JPG | Hits: 1823 | Size: 110.69 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


Even the belt fit, which was a nice surprise, though it is VERY close to the tensioner's limit. As on the V8, I had a drip pan under the steering box during the removal, but I didn't lose enough fluid to put a drop on the ground anyway.

Later, I added a MagneFine filter:


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18Sag.JPG | Hits: 1835 | Size: 96.99 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


Silent, strong, and a perfect fit.



UPDATE:
The first time I wheeled it, the SOB started groaning, and lost pressure. This is the ONLY junkyard Sag I've ever heard of going bad, including all the ones I've sold & shipped. So I swapped the pump from a 7.5L bracket that I never expect to sell, and it's working.

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Sag93V8.JPG | Hits: 2792 | Size: 61.35 KB | Posted on: 1/7/09 | Link to this image


PRESOLD Sag set for V8 from '93 E150

Remember that I can't test these JY pumps without fully installing & driving them, so I DON'T. Think of the pump as a core to be traded in at a parts store when you buy a reman. If the JY pump works when you install it, you don't have to buy that reman for a few years. But I'm only selling the bracket, hoses, & bolts.


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SagV8.JPG | Hits: 3173 | Size: 100.97 KB | Posted on: 7/19/09 | Link to this image


SOLD Saginaw PS Pump for V8 EFI

from '98 E150
contains normal PS fluid
Remember that I can't test these JY pumps without fully installing & driving them, so I DON'T. Think of the pump as a core to be traded in at a parts store when you buy a reman. If the JY pump works when you install it, you don't have to buy that reman for a few years. But I'm only selling the bracket, hoses, & bolts.



Note the 2 holes above the letter "g" in "mounting" - they're for an unthreaded stud on a water pump bolt head. On 5.0Ls, the stud passes thru the upper hole (short deck height); on 5.8Ls, the lower. The distance between them is the differerence in deck heights. So that stud can be used to quickly distinguish between the 2 similar engines if no other markings are apparent.

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SagV8RJM.JPG | Hits: 1749 | Size: 116.91 KB | Posted on: 3/31/11 | Link to this image


PRESOLD V8 Saginaw pump, bracket, lines, & bolts from '90 E150 5.0L (note the PSP switch & pigtail in the pressure line)



Remember that I can't test these JY pumps without fully installing & driving them, so I DON'T. Think of the pump as a core to be traded in at a parts store when you buy a reman. If the JY pump works when you install it, you don't have to buy that reman for a few years. But I'm only selling the bracket, hoses, & bolts.

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Sag93E58.JPG | Hits: 1555 | Size: 96.08 KB | Posted on: 6/27/12 | Link to this image


SOLD V8 Saginaw from '93 E150 5.8L Conversion Van
(note the lack of PSP switch in the pressure line)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Ships as 22.3lbs 15x13x12"
Remember that I can't test these JY pumps without fully installing & driving them, so I DON'T. Think of the pump as a core to be traded in at a parts store when you buy a reman. If the JY pump works when you install it, you don't have to buy that reman for a few years. But I'm only selling the bracket, hoses, & bolts.

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Sag95V8.JPG | Hits: 2040 | Size: 68.08 KB | Posted on: 8/19/11 | Link to this image


SOLD V8 Saginaw with bracket & hoses from '95 5.8L E150
The lines have been capped as shown since the day I found it.

For installation, see:


Remember that I can't test these JY pumps without fully installing & driving them, so I DON'T. Think of the pump as a core to be traded in at a parts store when you buy a reman. If the JY pump works when you install it, you don't have to buy that reman for a few years. But I'm only selling the bracket, hoses, & bolts.

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06ComprBlts.jpg | Hits: 1173 | Size: 150.55 KB | Posted on: 6/11/15 | Link to this image


Some Saginaw brackets use 10mm bolts for the A/C compressor. To install a compressor built for 8mm bolts, the compressor body must be drilled out.

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Sag94-75.JPG | Hits: 1548 | Size: 72.58 KB | Posted on: 5/24/12 | Link to this image


SOLD 9-19 Saginaw Bracket & lines for 7.5L from '94 E350

The pump is only a core, so the pulley has been removed to make exchanging the pump easier. But the pulley is still included with all the other parts shown.



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