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Close-up of worn ignition lock cylinder collar in black steering…

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Lock CylinderView all 16

Ignition lock cylinder with key and yellow tag on red background, with removal instructions

Ignition lock cylinder with key on red mat, annotated 'rotate key to OFF to extend catch button'

Ignition lock cylinder with key on red mat, annotated with instructions for releasing it from the housing

Disassembled ignition lock cylinder with key, labeled to show lock bar, collar wear, and key-in piston

Hand holding an ignition lock cylinder with key inserted, labeled align collar to key

Hand holding an ignition lock cylinder with instructions to align, insert, and rotate to RUN for column instal

Collage of steering column key-in warning switch repair with labeled steps and wiring

Door and ignition lock cylinder replacements kit with keys and instructions

Eight numbered step photos showing door lock cylinder removal with annotations

16photos in this albumView all

This original '93 collar (using the 10-cut key) is very loose, causing several annoying problems. With the key in RUN, push a probe up through the small hole in the lower shroud (behind the word "continuous"), depress the catch pin, and withdraw the cylinder assembly from the column.

I had a spare cylinder to put in so I could turn the ignition off while I was working.

New AFTERMARKET 8-cut lock cylinder set ~$70~100 (3): with black keys (2), black ignition cylinder, stainless door cylinders (2); door cylinders alone (w/keys) are Standard DL140.

Ford (1L3Z-11582-A) improved 8-cut lock cylinder kit MotorCraft SW-6383 ~$60 (not the A/C clutch pressure switch with the same number)
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StratTec is the OEM for the Ford kit, and its number is 707624 for about half the price. The blank key is 597638 for ~$2.50~6 each.

If the key or lock cylinder won't turn the vehicle OFF, read this:

See also:

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