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00Junker.JPG | Hits: 2929 | Size: 92.79 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


What a beauty! All those used tires in the bed WERE in the cab a few minutes ago. Yes, the back window has been busted out for a few months.

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01LHF.JPG | Hits: 2154 | Size: 109.87 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


It was abused & neglected, and driven on 1 tank for a while. When that one died, it was abandoned for a few years, and then given away. The new owner abandoned it for a few years, and then gave it away. The new owner abandoned it for a year or so, and then gave it to me. A couple of hours after taking this pic, I drove it home.

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02RHF.JPG | Hits: 2803 | Size: 101.97 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


2 tires off the rims; 2 dead gas tanks; 2 bent bumpers; 2 missing window cranks; 2 undamaged pieces of sheet metal; a bent tie rod, and a shattered rear window.

I'll TAKE it!

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03RHR.JPG | Hits: 2407 | Size: 110.29 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


Both doors will be replaced, the RHF fender, both bumpers, and the valance between the grille & bumper. I'll straighten that rocker.



I still haven't figured out what dimpled that corner under the taillight...

.

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04LHR.JPG | Hits: 1939 | Size: 76.32 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


The bumper is pretty rough, but I'm gonna straighten it.

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05LHD.JPG | Hits: 2022 | Size: 95.41 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


A squirrell wintered under the seat - he's been getting in & out through the dislodged shifter cable blockoff plug forward of the gas pedal. His spare acorns are in the wiper cowl. None of that was visible while the cab was packed full of used tires...


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06Cluster.JPG | Hits: 1992 | Size: 89.21 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


It looks like birds were roosting on the dash & crapping on the column due to the broken rear window.

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07VINstickerP.JPG | Hits: 1961 | Size: 71.76 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


Safety Certification label in driver's door jamb above door latch strike (VIN edited)



This truck came off the assembly line in February 1995, and has a GVWR of 5250 lbs (2650 lbs front axle, 3166 lbs rear axle) on P235/75R15 tires (35psi front 45psi rear) & 11x7" argent steel wheels (it now has junkyard chrome steel wheels). Its VIN (edited) says this is a US-made Ford 5-6,000GVWR F150 2WD std.cab 4.9L 1995 Wayne, MI plant (same as Broncos). It has 114 lbs reserve capacity on the front axle 302 lbs total reserve, Medium Royal Blue Metallic ClearCoat & Silver Metallic ClearCoat, originally shipped to Memphis under special-order 0077, 117" wheelbase, Type: F150 2WD 5250 GVWR 117", Body: Knit Vinyl Bench Opal Gray Styleside Pickup (this truck actually has a cloth bench that appears original), Mazda M5OD-R2, 3800 lb Ford 8.8" open 2.73, Light Opal/Silver tape, front springs F4TA-5310-JA rear springs F4TA-5A975-AA

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08CalSticker.JPG | Hits: 1845 | Size: 73.84 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


Calibration label in driver's door jamb

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09EECCode.JPG | Hits: 2001 | Size: 72.94 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


EEC calibration code sticker in driver's door jamb
Some trucks have this - others don't.

Coincidentally, this is the same code as the donor for my Bronco's engine.

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10VECI.JPG | Hits: 4103 | Size: 85.86 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


VECI Label under hood above master cylinder



For the label specific to YOUR vehicle, click this link, then click "Quick Guides" in the sidebar, then click "VECI Labels" and find the calibration code on the sticker on your EEC. On '87-91 F-series & Broncos, it's in the driver's kick panel. '92-96 is in the same place, but it's not visible without removing the EEC into the engine compartment. Some '92-96 trucks also have the calibration code on a sticker in the door jamb, but it's hit-or-miss; I haven't found any pattern.

For carburetors, try this:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e6/05/0900823d800ce605.jsp

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11Belt.JPG | Hits: 2117 | Size: 92.67 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


4.9L FEAD belt routing sticker on core support

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12AC.JPG | Hits: 1759 | Size: 78.38 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


Refrigerant label on core support

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13Jack.JPG | Hits: 2789 | Size: 81.11 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


Jacking Instructions sticker on core support


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14IFS.JPG | Hits: 1678 | Size: 89.46 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch sticker on core support

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15Hood.JPG | Hits: 1739 | Size: 93.73 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


The previous owner got as far as bending a tie-rod by hooking a tow chain there, connecting a fuel pressure gauge, & disconnecting one plug wire. Then he gave up, and broke the rear window by bushhogging near the truck. His gauge is ruined.


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16EngL.JPG | Hits: 2009 | Size: 100.61 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


.

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17Dist.JPG | Hits: 1696 | Size: 97.95 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


The #4 plug wire is off to see that it's sparking.

. . .

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18Alt.JPG | Hits: 1630 | Size: 90.88 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


95A 3G alternator. Note the 4 holes between each pair of front ribs, and that it's attached using the driver's side hole in the bracket.


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19Batt.JPG | Hits: 1665 | Size: 85.81 KB | Posted on: 2/11/11 | Link to this image


Craptasmic battery, STONE-dead. Terminals destroyed.

. .

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20Bent.JPG | Hits: 1850 | Size: 104.52 KB | Posted on: 2/13/11 | Link to this image


The guy who had it before me used his 4WD tractor to drag it around his yard by the tie rod.

. .

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23Blown.JPG | Hits: 2106 | Size: 91.17 KB | Posted on: 2/13/11 | Link to this image


I didn't realize it was bent badly enough to dig the adjuster bolt into the sidewall, blowing out the tire. IDK why Ford specifies that the bolts be in this position, but here's a good reason for them NOT to be.

. .

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26Bent.JPG | Hits: 1691 | Size: 96.93 KB | Posted on: 2/13/11 | Link to this image


What a...

. . . . .

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27Straight.JPG | Hits: 1666 | Size: 90.54 KB | Posted on: 2/13/11 | Link to this image


Amazing what you can do with a 12# sledge...

Coincidentally, that same sledge was necessary to remove both rims on this side - they were rusted onto the hubs THAT badly.

. . . . .

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33IdlingR.JPG | Hits: 3009 | Size: 95.8 KB | Posted on: 2/13/11 | Link to this image


With some creativity (plus 2 fire extinguishers, 2 gallon jugs of water, and a hose nearby), I created a temporary fuel system to get it home. I had to cook the injectors to get them working, but I had to do the same to my Bronco's engine 13 years ago, and it's still running fine.



With the key in RUN, I pierced the Tan wire (injector bank 1, Tan/Red on older trucks) and grounded it until I heard all 3 injectors click (it took over a minute because they were THAT gummed-up). Then I did the same to the White wire (bank 2, older Tan/Orange). Then I triggered the fuel pump relay through the DLC, and repeated each one MOMENTARILY so the fuel pressure would push the melted gum through the injector & flush it with gas - but not so long that it would flood or hydraulic the engine. Then I removed the DLC jumper & the pierce probe, and started the engine normally.



I kept the fire extinguishers handy while warming the engine up the first few times, but never needed them.



It was necessary because the tanks & pumps were ruined.


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30Pump.JPG | Hits: 550 | Size: 103.91 KB | Posted on: 4/26/18 | Link to this image


Temporary fuel system includes fire extinguishers, water jugs, & a garden hose.



It was necessary because the tanks & pumps were ruined.



See the PREVious pic...

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37LowFuelLight.JPG | Hits: 1900 | Size: 70.54 KB | Posted on: 2/20/11 | Link to this image


I added a low fuel light, just to see how it went in a non-tach cluster. It was a little easier since the power trace is already connected. But on a dual-tank truck, the anti-slosh feature makes the gauge VERY slow to respond to switching tanks. Later, I corrected that...

For more info, see this album:

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40FillerPipe.JPG | Hits: 5129 | Size: 73.44 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


To lift the bed, loosen the clamps (8mm, 5/16") around the filler supports, then slide them outboard.

GO TO THE NEXT PIC...

See also:
. . . . . .

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41FillerNeck.JPG | Hits: 3040 | Size: 87.85 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


To lift the bed, remove the filler caps & filler neck screws (5.5mm, 7/32"), then push the necks below the body and put the caps back on.

Go to the NEXT pic...

.

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42Connectors.JPG | Hits: 2885 | Size: 81.9 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


To lift the bed, disconnect the taillight wiring forward of the rear bumper.

Go to the NEXT pic...

. .

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43BedNut.JPG | Hits: 2728 | Size: 84.84 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


To lift the bed, remove the nuts (18mm) for the bed bolts (8 on longbed; 6 on all others).

. .

Go to the NEXT pic...

. . .

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44BedBolt.JPG | Hits: 2462 | Size: 83.27 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


These bed bolts are in much better condition than I expected, considering how rusty the hubs were.

Go to the NEXT pic...


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45Hoist.JPG | Hits: 4073 | Size: 66.17 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


To lift the bed for fuel tank access, I used my electric hoist (an ATV winch & some scrap metal).

Go to the NEXT pic...

. . . . . . . . .

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46Hoisted.JPG | Hits: 3629 | Size: 71.75 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


Easy!

Go to the NEXT pic...

. . . . .

Eventually, I straightened that bumper.


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47FrameRear.JPG | Hits: 2679 | Size: 86.27 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


It'll be much easier to work on the tanks this way, rather than from below.

Go to the NEXT pic...

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48RearTank.JPG | Hits: 2425 | Size: 82.94 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


I'll vacuum & wash the tanks before opening anything. The unusually large fuel line fitting at the tank has a check valve built in.

Go to the NEXT pic...

The hose clamp holding the rubber filler hose to the tank is 8mm (5/16").

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49FrontTank.JPG | Hits: 2621 | Size: 81.59 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


I'll vacuum & wash the tanks before opening anything.

Go to the NEXT pic...

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50FrameSide.JPG | Hits: 2720 | Size: 103.85 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


Even though I put a safety strap under the suspended bed, I rolled the chassis out to work on the tanks.

Go to the NEXT pic...

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60Hammer.JPG | Hits: 2825 | Size: 95.37 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


After washing & vacuuming, and a little penetrating oil (NONE on the O-ring), the lock ring can come out. The brass drift prevents sparks.



GO TO THE NEXT FEW PICS...

For more info, read these captions:

. . .

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65Oring.JPG | Hits: 2581 | Size: 91.7 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


Some force was necessary to break the FDM loose from the bottom of the tank. See the NEXT several pics...

For more info, read these captions:

. . . .

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68Front.JPG | Hits: 2824 | Size: 100.39 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


I can't describe the smell...

For more info, read these captions:

. . . . .

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69Rear.JPG | Hits: 3083 | Size: 89.21 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


The back tank was just as bad as the front. 6 years is too long for gas to sit. I burned both tanks in a LARGE bonfire to clean them before disposal.

For more info, read these captions:

. . . .

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71Tank.JPG | Hits: 2289 | Size: 59.62 KB | Posted on: 4/17/11 | Link to this image


After a few weeks' searching, I found a rear tank. It's from a '93, but the only difference is the electrical connector. Otherwise, rear tanks are the same back to '92. '90-91 have the same connector as '92-93, but the fuel line nipples are shorter. Never connect a '92-96 fuel line to a '90-91 nipple or it will be VERY difficult to remove.

For more info, read these captions:

. . .

...and the NEXT several.

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74Conn.JPG | Hits: 5412 | Size: 85.41 KB | Posted on: 4/17/11 | Link to this image


Since I got the pigtail with the '93 tank, and I saved the original '95 pump plate, it was easy to make this adapter harness. Now, either style of pump can be used.

The oversized fitting on the blue (pressure) line is the updated check valve, integrated into the fuel line assembly after this recall:



For more info, read these captions:

. . . .

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76Solder.JPG | Hits: 13361 | Size: 74.81 KB | Posted on: 4/17/11 | Link to this image


To temporarily (or indefinitely) run any '90-96 dual-tank truck on 1 tank, it's necessary to plug both unused tank lines & the vapor line.

I used the old rear tank plate as a blockoff for the fuel lines because it seals to the fuel lines without damaging or modifying them. After removing the plate/pump assembly from the tank & lines, and then removing the level sender & FDM from the plate, I heated both tubes to dry the old gas out & cook the varnish into ash. Then I used a brass bore brush to clean the tubes inside, and rinsed them with carb cleaner. Then I flipped it and melted rosin-core electrical solder into them so it pooled in the first bend, blocked the ends with a metal putty knife, and flipped it back so the solder hardened into a plug at the bottom end. This is with the truck running, so it works. Use a bolt or vacuum cap to plug the vapor line.

To UNdo it & use this pump plate again, just disconnect the lines, dump ALL the gas out of the tubes, heat the tubes to melt the solder, and let it run out. DO NOT put a torch to it while the fuel lines are connected, OR anywhere near the open fuel lines or tanks! Then press the plate into a working FDM reservoir, hang the level sender, and connect the wiring before re-installing the assembly into a tank.

For more info, read these captions:

.

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77FrontTank.JPG | Hits: 2211 | Size: 44.47 KB | Posted on: 4/19/11 | Link to this image


Today, I found a decent front tank & pump - only a little dent near the front.

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78FrontPump.JPG | Hits: 2337 | Size: 93.33 KB | Posted on: 4/19/11 | Link to this image


The motor spins, and I rebuilt the sender, which now produces a smooth signal. After it's installed, I'll know if it makes pressure.

**UPDATE**
This motor died after a few weeks, and the float sank. I repaired the float & found another JY motor, but that motor didn't last long either. Eventually, I found another '94-96 assembly. The best new FDMs are Bosch 67000 (flat-bottom like this) and 67003 (angled bottom, for pickup rear tanks) made in USA. Avoid the Brazilian versions.



See also:
. . . . . . .

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79FrontIn.JPG | Hits: 2165 | Size: 88.59 KB | Posted on: 4/19/11 | Link to this image


It works!

For more info, read these captions:

. . .

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150BedUp.JPG | Hits: 2156 | Size: 99.39 KB | Posted on: 4/19/11 | Link to this image


Now that there are 2 working tanks, I can drop the bed back on.

For more info, read these captions:

. . .

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51CabWall.JPG | Hits: 2175 | Size: 84.31 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


It's much cleaner than I expected.

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52CabWall.JPG | Hits: 2258 | Size: 92.26 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


I think that rocker panel is the only damage to the cab.

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53CabWall.JPG | Hits: 2422 | Size: 56.52 KB | Posted on: 2/21/11 | Link to this image


These rubber plugs are for the cab resonance weight. I haven't found any pattern to which trucks got them, but I know they were used as early as '88 on standard cab XLT 4WDs.

See the NEXT 2 pics.

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54CabWeight.JPG | Hits: 2066 | Size: 86.3 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


I've only had this for ~10 years - it's about time it got used on something.

The "E3..." engineering number says it was designed in 1983.

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55CabWeight.JPG | Hits: 1986 | Size: 82.94 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


That's where it belongs...

See the PREVious 2 pics.

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141Upholstery.JPG | Hits: 2940 | Size: 91.54 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


The first few blasts drained out nearly opaque brown - I think someone must have spilled a LOT of coffee on this seat. The seatback & seat belts got this same treatment, including plenty of PurplePower. The headrest covers went thru the washing machine.

See the NEXT few pics...

. . .

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143Upholstery.JPG | Hits: 2380 | Size: 105.87 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


The seat cover, seatback, seat belts, & rear carpet got hosed out & sun-dried. The headrest covers went thru the washing machine. Then everything got a heavy dose of Lysol spray before reassembly.

. .

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145Upholstery.JPG | Hits: 2174 | Size: 84.2 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


The floor cover, floor-mounted belts, & rear carpet got hosed off, sun-dried, and treated with Lysol before going back in. The shoulder belts were OK. That red door will get stripped down & painted.

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146Shifter.JPG | Hits: 1952 | Size: 76.07 KB | Posted on: 4/9/11 | Link to this image


I sanded & painted the shifter, and reinstalled the knob.

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56WStrimLeaves.JPG | Hits: 5656 | Size: 96.21 KB | Posted on: 4/9/11 | Link to this image


The windshield side & lower trim were packed with leaves. While it was off, I removed the wiper valance & emptied the cowl. It was packed, except where the squirrel living in the squirrel cage had cleaned some of them out.

.

For instructions on using this tool, read this caption:


If your clips are rusted, bent, broken, or missing; and you can't find new ones; e-mail me through my profile here or on any Ford truck BBS - I have a few spares for sale..


See also:

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124cRHR.JPG | Hits: 3293 | Size: 67.77 KB | Posted on: 4/14/11 | Link to this image


It took a few hours with some BP hammers, prybars, & wood blocks, but it's pretty close to its original shape now.

This is how I got it:


This is after painting:

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151BedDown.JPG | Hits: 1852 | Size: 98.9 KB | Posted on: 4/20/11 | Link to this image


It almost looks like a truck again. The painter says he'll get to my doors, fender, & valance tomorrow (if we don't have another monsoon & power failure).

After some gentle sledgehammering, the bumper is close to its original shape again.


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102RHFfenderOff.JPG | Hits: 2037 | Size: 104.59 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


I've already straightened the reinforcing plate behind the headlight opening, but the core support is going to take more effort. The big plastic grille reinforcement was a goner. Fortunately, I have a spare.

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103RHFfenderOff.JPG | Hits: 2013 | Size: 97.6 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


I've only had a spare R fender for ~5 years, and it's almost the right color.



The top L 2 bolts that go to the cowl horn are 13mm, as is the one for the hood support & the bottom L.

The lower L bolt (near the lower door hinge) is 10mm like the one in the middle of the wheelwell arch, and the 2 for the core support corner (with the hood bumpstop).

The small screws around the wheelwell lip are 5.5mm.

The bolts from the core support to the fender & from the fender to the grille valance are 8mm, as are those from the wheelwell to the core support below the battery.

The ground stud is 11mm; the starter relay screws are 8mm. The battery tray bolts are 10mm, and its support arm uses an 8mm lag screw.

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104RHFfenderOff.JPG | Hits: 1760 | Size: 87.64 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


It was probably the same squirrel who lived in the '93 Bronco who knew how to get in through the cowl drain in this truck, but this time, he didn't gnaw through the blower - he just hauled a few pounds of acorns into the cowl & under the seat.


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123DoorColorsL.JPG | Hits: 1772 | Size: 82.57 KB | Posted on: 3/29/11 | Link to this image


This '93 Bronco door is MX (Dark Shadow Blue Metallic), which isn't quite as purple as this truck's LA (Royal Blue Metallic).

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127cRocker.JPG | Hits: 1841 | Size: 53.41 KB | Posted on: 4/14/11 | Link to this image


Again: a big improvement.



The doors & fender are being painted.

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123DoorsPaint.JPG | Hits: 1654 | Size: 84.25 KB | Posted on: 5/5/11 | Link to this image


I picked up the painted parts yesterday, so I can finally remove the bad doors. Unfortunately, the painter didn't follow my instructions, and he polished everything, so now there's an obvious difference in the finish. I might knock some of that shine off...

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124DoorOff.JPG | Hits: 1613 | Size: 95.96 KB | Posted on: 5/5/11 | Link to this image


About what you'd expect.

The gasket has been smashed by the misaligned door for so long that it doesn't stand out & touch the door. I filled the hollow gasket with foam caulk-saver cord from a hardware store, and it's fine now.

.

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125DoorOn.JPG | Hits: 1599 | Size: 111.03 KB | Posted on: 5/5/11 | Link to this image


I'd have gotten this fender on much faster if I hadn't had to change the voltage regulator, pull the other door back off to cut the wiring hole larger, solder the clamp back on my battery charger, and find the 2nd battery pack for my cordless impact. But it's all aligned and ready for the lower stripe.

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126Silver.JPG | Hits: 1441 | Size: 79.44 KB | Posted on: 5/5/11 | Link to this image


As usual, I'm painting at night. But it seems to be working OK - the other vehicles still look decent.

.

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128Silver.JPG | Hits: 1465 | Size: 81.48 KB | Posted on: 5/5/11 | Link to this image


Pretty good for spray painting in the dark on dirt with no prep. Now I just need some pinstriping.

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130Silver.JPG | Hits: 1582 | Size: 104.48 KB | Posted on: 5/7/11 | Link to this image


I wasn't planning to wash it for a week after I finished painting, but since a storm blew through last night, I'll use the hose, some PurplePower, & a push-broom to scrub the mildew off the old paint.

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160Washed.JPG | Hits: 1630 | Size: 57.1 KB | Posted on: 5/7/11 | Link to this image


Under all the sap, mildew, & grime, it's not as bad as I thought.

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163Washed.JPG | Hits: 1501 | Size: 63.28 KB | Posted on: 5/7/11 | Link to this image


I still have to touch up the tailgate, bed corner, & a few other spots, and paint on the pinstripes. And I have to find one more rim & a set of center caps.

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162Washed.JPG | Hits: 1448 | Size: 104.91 KB | Posted on: 5/7/11 | Link to this image


I still have to touch up the tailgate & a few other spots, and paint on the pinstripes. But the bumper looks much better.

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161Washed.JPG | Hits: 1519 | Size: 97.41 KB | Posted on: 5/7/11 | Link to this image


You'd never guess what it looked like 3 months ago, so here's a reminder:


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81Pinhole.JPG | Hits: 1828 | Size: 46.26 KB | Posted on: 4/17/11 | Link to this image


I've never seen this before - it looks like someone went along the heater hose with a needle punching it every 2".

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170VCG.JPG | Hits: 3856 | Size: 99.2 KB | Posted on: 5/10/11 | Link to this image


After a little driving, it became apparent that there was a serious oil leak dripping onto the rear Y-pipe from the intake heat shield. Fortunately, I had a new valve cover gasket in the junkpile.

SEE THE NEXT FEW PICS...

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172VCG.JPG | Hits: 3268 | Size: 109.19 KB | Posted on: 5/10/11 | Link to this image


This is after removing the throttle cover, the PCV & breather hose from their grommets, all the vacuum lines from the tree, the intake hoses (8mm), the throttle cable from its ball, the CANP hoses & connector, the TPS/EVP/EVR/TAB/TAD connectors, the EGR flare nut (27mm), the L intake support (9/16"), the combination valve & TAD pipe nuts (1/2"), and seven intake manifold bolts (1/2"). I still have to remove the EVR/TAB/TAD bracket (11mm) & fuel supply line to get the valve cover off.

SEE THE NEXT PIC...

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174VCG.JPG | Hits: 2013 | Size: 72.16 KB | Posted on: 5/10/11 | Link to this image


The main leak is the big GAP almost halfway down on the R side (LEFT in the pic) just this side of the last visible bolt hole, but there's also a slit in the front L corner (lower R of the pic). I still have to remove the fuel supply line before the cover will come out, but varnish around its O-rings is making it VERY difficult to pull apart, even with the best release tool.

SEE THE PREVious FEW PICS...

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176ATF.JPG | Hits: 2574 | Size: 90.07 KB | Posted on: 5/13/11 | Link to this image


After a couple of long drives, I dumped & refilled the transmission, and cleaned the magnet. Filling from the top is much faster & cleaner. Just position a catch-pan for when it overflows.

.

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181LHD.JPG | Hits: 1609 | Size: 88.59 KB | Posted on: 5/13/11 | Link to this image


It looks normal again, and I'm driving it whenever I can.


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182Dash.JPG | Hits: 2339 | Size: 88.11 KB | Posted on: 5/13/11 | Link to this image


I rebuilt the MFS today, so everything is working now.

.

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183Seat.JPG | Hits: 1803 | Size: 56.48 KB | Posted on: 5/13/11 | Link to this image


Clean enough to sit on, which is saying a lot, considering how bad it was.


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36DashFixed.JPG | Hits: 1796 | Size: 81.69 KB | Posted on: 5/18/11 | Link to this image


The dash clunked every time I hit a bump, so I tracked down & installed one of the few remaining repair kits.

For more info, read these captions:


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116RHS.JPG | Hits: 1647 | Size: 73.76 KB | Posted on: 5/13/11 | Link to this image


This corner looks even better after some paint.

.

...and the bumper is a lot straighter than it used to be:


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180LHS.JPG | Hits: 1876 | Size: 100.75 KB | Posted on: 5/13/11 | Link to this image


I found some black center caps in my junkpile which are correct, but rare. I'd rather put red ones on it, but I haven't found any at the junkyards.

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164Rim.JPG | Hits: 1934 | Size: 70.87 KB | Posted on: 5/27/11 | Link to this image


I finally found another chrome rim for the RHR, and the bumper is a lot straighter than it used to be:


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165Rim.JPG | Hits: 3000 | Size: 65.37 KB | Posted on: 5/27/11 | Link to this image


I finally found another chrome rim for the RHR.

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185EngMtLH.JPG | Hits: 2131 | Size: 86.98 KB | Posted on: 6/3/11 | Link to this image


The torn L engine mount is another part of the vibration during acceleration...

. . . . .

SEE THE NEXT SEVERAL PICS...

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186EngMtLH.JPG | Hits: 1890 | Size: 87.79 KB | Posted on: 6/3/11 | Link to this image


The torn L engine mount is another part of the vibration during acceleration...

. . . . .

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187EngMtLH.JPG | Hits: 1791 | Size: 78.13 KB | Posted on: 6/3/11 | Link to this image


The torn L engine mount is another part of the vibration during acceleration... I have the engine lifted & the nut removed from the bottom of the mount at this point.

. . . . .

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189EngMtRH.JPG | Hits: 1934 | Size: 94.88 KB | Posted on: 6/3/11 | Link to this image


The torn R engine mount is YET another part of the vibration during acceleration...

. . . . .

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189EngMts.JPG | Hits: 2979 | Size: 125.61 KB | Posted on: 6/3/11 | Link to this image


These were another part of the vibration during acceleration... It has been significantly reduced again, but there's still a little around 60MPH. I think it's the tires.

. . . . .
Molding your own poly engine mounts

***********UPDATE*************
Turns out that last vibration was the rearmost u-joint, which hadn't been installed correctly, and was holding the d'shaft offcenter. Loosening, centering, & tightening it solved the last of the vibrations.

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190BumpPump.JPG | Hits: 2286 | Size: 106.34 KB | Posted on: 7/10/11 | Link to this image


Frank bought it a month ago, and it's finally back for one more front fuel pump.

For more info, read these captions:



At the same time, I'm adding a 4-pin trailer connector & swapping to this chrome bumper.



I also found the main vibration: the rear U-joint was installed incorrectly, and it was holding the d'shaft offcenter. I reinstalled it & it's smooth sailing now.

While it was here, I also rewired the low fuel light module so it doesn't interfere with the gauge when switching the tanks.

For more info, read these captions:



UPDATE: Frank & his sons enjoyed the truck for many years, and then gave it back to me in 2019.

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MazdogFail.jpg | Hits: 1104 | Size: 53.42 KB | Posted on: 3/9/16 | Link to this image


This 2WD Mazda M5OD-R2 output shaft gave no sign of damage before letting go while driving at very low speed. It shattered the tailhousing, but the driveshaft survived. So after swapping in a reman transmission, the truck is right back on the road.
https://highgeartransmission.com/transmissions/

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20180424_ADMburn.jpg | Hits: 1204 | Size: 71.55 KB | Posted on: 4/24/18 | Link to this image


At almost 180Kmi, the ADM has been screeching intermittently, and it stunk. It has apparently been trying to burn its protective fuse for a while, but not succeeding. I can't tell yet if it's strictly an internal failure, or if it was triggered by some external fault on the truck.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

UPDATE: after a little diagnosis & analysis of the overall situation, the owner decided NOT to attempt to repair this system now. The truck will run like a '93 F150 - no SRS.


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B4nFtR.jpg | Hits: 220 | Size: 41.45 KB | Posted on: 7/4/21 | Link to this image


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