How short should the brake booster studs be cut for the Battle Born Brakes bracket?

The instructions say to cut the four booster studs that point toward the rear of the vehicle down to about .75 inches, give or take.

How do I avoid damaging the stud threads when cutting them?

Thread the 4 metric nuts all the way down first, cut the studs with an angle grinder, then when you remove the metric nuts they will help de-bur the studs.

What should I do if the brake pedal binds at the booster rod connection?

Consider moving the booster's rod to the other side of the pedal, flipping the bushing around, or twisting the booster input rod 180 degrees to get the alignment correct. When properly installed there won't be friction.

Can the booster bracket be installed on the truck before assembling the booster?

Yes — the heading states the booster bracket installation 'can be bolted to truck first.'

How do I verify the pedal is correctly connected to the booster?

Tighten the booster with at least two nuts and confirm the pedal has a full range of motion without any binding at the connection point.

Home/ Registry/ Ford/ Bronco/ 1978-1979/ “RANGER XLT”/ Photo supermotors.net/registry/media/1174174

Battle Born Brakes SD Hydroboost Install Instructions Page 2 - Ford Bronco

Hydroboost install instruction page on booster studs, pedal bushing and bracket mounting with photos

‹ ›

Service instruction page detailing booster stud cutting, brake pedal bushing and booster bracket installation.

AI caption June 2025 · Photo 221 of 262

This is page 2 of a Battle Born Brakes installation instruction sheet (document code INST-01 SD Hydro) for a hydroboost/hydraulic brake booster conversion kit. The page covers two preparation topics plus the start of booster bracket installation. The "Booster Studs" section explains that some booster brackets require cutting the four brake booster studs pointing toward the rear of the vehicle down to about 0.75 inches: thread the four metric nuts fully down first, cut the studs with an angle grinder, and let the nuts de-bur the threads when removed. The "Brake Pedal Bushing" section advises noting which side of the pedal the rod end should sit (usually same as original), tightening the booster with at least two nuts, and verifying full pedal range of motion without binding; if binding occurs, move the rod to the other side of the pedal, flip the bushing, or rotate the booster input rod 180 degrees. A heading notes the booster bracket installation can be done with the bracket bolted to the truck first. Four photos illustrate the cut-down studs, the pedal/rod-end connection under the dash, and the assembled booster/bracket unit from two angles.

Is this accurate? Sign in to help verify it.

Frequently asked questions

How short should the brake booster studs be cut for the Battle Born Brakes bracket?: The instructions say to cut the four booster studs that point toward the rear of the vehicle down to about .75 inches, give or take.
How do I avoid damaging the stud threads when cutting them?: Thread the 4 metric nuts all the way down first, cut the studs with an angle grinder, then when you remove the metric nuts they will help de-bur the studs.
What should I do if the brake pedal binds at the booster rod connection?: Consider moving the booster's rod to the other side of the pedal, flipping the bushing around, or twisting the booster input rod 180 degrees to get the alignment correct. When properly installed there won't be friction.
Can the booster bracket be installed on the truck before assembling the booster?: Yes — the heading states the booster bracket installation 'can be bolted to truck first.'
How do I verify the pedal is correctly connected to the booster?: Tighten the booster with at least two nuts and confirm the pedal has a full range of motion without any binding at the connection point.