Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGMotorWiring.JPG | Hits: 9361 | Size: 61.24 KB | Posted on: 12/4/08 | Link to this image


Tailgate Motor Wiring '92-95 (other years similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. .

All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications.



To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp (incandescent - NOT LED) across the safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.
.

For C418, see:


C429 is WPT-484
C418 is WPT-386(427)/171(756)
C274 is WPT-653
'78-91 use a 3-blade connector (WPT-601/706) for the motor wiring behind the L taillight.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGpins96XL.JPG | Hits: 3501 | Size: 53.83 KB | Posted on: 12/2/09 | Link to this image


'94-96 Tailgate w/o Carpet

Unused carpet holes plugged with pushpins, indicating all '94-96 tailgates have carpet holes.

.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch. If the glass doesn't move AND the lamp doesn't light, the fault is elsewhere.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGcarpet.JPG | Hits: 3397 | Size: 49.66 KB | Posted on: 10/17/10 | Link to this image


'94-96 Bronco Tailgate Carpet

Pushpins have coarser fins than those for the camper trim, but are interchangeable.



To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.



See also:
.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGCarpetBlue.JPG | Hits: 2793 | Size: 64.97 KB | Posted on: 7/24/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Bronco Tailgate Carpet

'94 Royal Blue fits '78-96 tailgates. Some mounting pushpins included.

Actual dimensions: 5 lbs 61x20x2"

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TailgateCarpetMocha.JPG | Hits: 3521 | Size: 58.94 KB | Posted on: 4/7/06 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Carpet NEEDS CLEANING

Ships as 5 lbs 62x21x3". I could roll it to try to reduce the shipping cost, but I don't recommend it. It has a rigid molded backing.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Sliding.JPG | Hits: 2283 | Size: 74.58 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


When the glass can be moved by hand, it usually means the motor's drive bushings have degraded to powder or mush. In this particular case, though, I found the motor loose in the t/g. I assume someone changed it, but couldn't get the screws started, and gave up.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate O.JPG | Hits: 8512 | Size: 87.28 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


If the motor spins but won't move the glass, just push it down all the way, and you can open the tailgate. Never try to open or close the t/g with the glass sticking up as shown. It should be FULLY inside the t/g.

If the glass is broken, or if the glass is down but the handle still won't work, see this:


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

End Seal.JPG | Hits: 8679 | Size: 116.55 KB | Posted on: 7/7/03 | Link to this image


If you only need to change the weatherbelts, or if the glass needs to come out, remove the screw from each end seal and rotate them up toward the glass to disengage the hooked end from the lip inside the window opening. Then remove the screw at each end of the outer weatherbelt.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Weatherbelt.JPG | Hits: 7959 | Size: 96.51 KB | Posted on: 7/7/03 | Link to this image


AFTER removing the screw at each end, use a screwdriver to gently pry the OUTER weatherbelt up just enough to pop the cllps loose. I've pulled the far end out to show the clips, but it should be left straight until ALL the clips are loose, then lifted out without bending. The inner seal is removed the same way (it has no screws), but use a rag between the screwdriver and the paint.

The outside weatherbelt is D8TZ-9841610-A (interchange FO1930103) and cost $24 in 1996. The inner is F6TZ-9842072-AA (interchange FO1930104) and was $27.

2014 prices
Supplier . . . . Inner Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . Outer Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . Camper Run
RockAuto . . . F2028 $18 . . . . . . . . . . . F2027 $18 . . . . . . . . . . . F1019 $43
LMC . . . . . . . 49-9466 $30 . . . . . . . . . 49-9465 $40 . . . . . . . . . . 49-9461 $40 not sure
JBG . . . . . . . . pair 34543 $55 pair of inner & outer . . . . . 36020 $39 NOT CORRECT

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGWthrBltOut.JPG | Hits: 2905 | Size: 44.77 KB | Posted on: 9/24/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Outer Weatherbelts

These are the belts that wipe the outside of the rear glass on '78-96 Bronco tailgates. The rubber is still pliable, & all the flocking and clips are still present. There is one tiny cut less than 1/2" long that I barely noticed.

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Weatherbelts.JPG | Hits: 6660 | Size: 31.64 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


This outer weatherbelt has begun to dry rot, and is already leaking water into the unpainted interior of the tailgate. The dirt it brings with it will cause the bottom of the tailgate to rust out from the inside. If the inner one gets this bad, it will scratch the heating element which could cause a hot spot that would shatter the glass.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate I.JPG | Hits: 7392 | Size: 81.05 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


The wetness on the moisture barrier shows that the weatherbelts are dry-rotted & should be replaced before they scratch the heater grid or glass. They're also allowing dirt that accumulates on the glass to fall or wash into the t/g, causing rust.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGshield.JPG | Hits: 305 | Size: 127.53 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


The factory drip shield is just painted paper with duct tape along the bottom (which has never made sense to me), and it's almost useless. I'm surprised this one is in such good condition.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate.JPG | Hits: 9041 | Size: 118.84 KB | Posted on: 7/7/03 | Link to this image


This can be done with the tailgate open or closed. After removing the inside access panel, remove the vapor barrier. This one had 2, but it was obviously accidental.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Glass Up.JPG | Hits: 8133 | Size: 72.74 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


If the motor runs but doesn't move the glass, push the glass up for access. The glass is strong enough to support its own weight fully extended, but no extra weight.

If the motor doesn't run, remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up or down as needed. Remember to FULLY lower or remove the glass before lifting or closing the t/g.

. .

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Glass.JPG | Hits: 9949 | Size: 106.83 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


The L latch must be fully closed to defeat the safety interlock switch so the motor will run, so if neither switch works, try hitting the L side of the t/g with your shoulder to fully close the latch.

If the window can't be moved by either switch, find the motor connector shown on the drill chuck and apply 12V power to the 2 exposed wires to operate the motor. Reversing the wires reverses the motor direction. Position the glass so that the track nuts are just above the lower edge of the opening. This glass is too high.

If the tailgate is closed, reach behind the center divider and pull the operating rod down to enable the latch, and open the tailgate. (See later pics.)

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Inside L.JPG | Hits: 8405 | Size: 44.04 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


This is the optimum location for the glass since you have access to all the fasteners to remove the regulator in this position. The other side is similar. To hit this spot, watch thru the glass for the hole in the gear to line up with the regulator mounting bolt, indicated at the lower R of the pic.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Inside R.JPG | Hits: 6806 | Size: 35.22 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


The nuts for the glass track are under this fixed support, but the bolts for the regulator will be accessible after the glass is removed.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

NutsR.JPG | Hits: 2457 | Size: 84.33 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


The R nuts are covered by the structure, so a ratcheting boxend is the easiest tool to get at them. Alternatively, this hole could be enlarged and another drilled above the other nut for socket access.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

RWdoBadGrid.JPG | Hits: 3311 | Size: 61.03 KB | Posted on: 7/24/07 | Link to this image


SOLD '80-96 Bronco Tailgate Glass

Defrost grid is damaged in at least 8 places, so this can be considered an UNheated window.

Actual dimensions: 60x22x2" 17.5 lbs
Shipping dimensions: 64x26x2" 22 lbs

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TableGlass.JPG | Hits: 2558 | Size: 112.13 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


Most people are paranoid about the glass breaking if it's fully extended with the t/g down, but I do it all the time, and I've never broken one. I even use it as a VERY-LIGHT-DUTY work table. I don't jump on it, but that 12V impact weighs a few pounds, and it's fine.

If your t/g is already split along the R side, don't do this. It won't hurt the glass, but it will do more damage to the t/g skin. For more info, see the Right Side Split album..

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Mechanism.JPG | Hits: 7801 | Size: 82.01 KB | Posted on: 7/7/03 | Link to this image


The 3 black bolts hold the center latch control and are used to align it so the latches open at the same time.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Inside C.JPG | Hits: 9302 | Size: 44.59 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


If the glass is clear of the shell, but you can't open the t/g, remove the inside access panel & pull the 2 rods inward (the L rod is obscured behind the tailgate, but it runs to the L Rod Clip). Either unclip them from the center mechanism, or pull them like bow strings to release each latch. Make sure the glass isnt so high that it engages the campers groove, or it could break. If it wont come down, unbolt the slides from the glass, or the motor from the regulator to lower the glass.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Center Bolts.JPG | Hits: 6540 | Size: 46.65 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


Mark the bolt locations for reference, even if you plan to move the center mechanism later.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Mechanism In.JPG | Hits: 6767 | Size: 29.95 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


View from the driver's side

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Mechanism Side.JPG | Hits: 6666 | Size: 55.57 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


View from the passenger side

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

RodClips.jpg | Hits: 6387 | Size: 27.44 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


To release the rods, push the hook end of the clip off the rod so the plastic pivots in the rod hole, then pull the rod down out of the clip. Note the bent lever in the center. This is what happens when someone attempts to open the t/g before the glass is fully down. It results in the inside handle standing up.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

CenterMech.JPG | Hits: 6027 | Size: 51.45 KB | Posted on: 5/17/07 | Link to this image


Center mechanism front & back. Ford calls it the "remote control".

The rubber grommet for the handle operating rod is slid onto that lever just for storage.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Center Mechanism.JPG | Hits: 6585 | Size: 54.24 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


The center mechanism

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Center Mech.JPG | Hits: 5905 | Size: 64.91 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


The white plastic rod clips indicate the direction of each rod.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Center Interlock.JPG | Hits: 6265 | Size: 60.26 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


The numbers show the sequence of events for PROPER operation of the inside latch handle. 5 & 6 should be simultaneous, and the long rods can be bent to take up any slack & get the latches to open at the same moment. But do so only AFTER aligning the tailgate.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Center Bent.JPG | Hits: 6278 | Size: 29.6 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


This is why the inside handle doesn't sit flat. If someone pulls the handle before the glass is fully down (disengaging the interlock), then the handle lever bends.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

RemBent.JPG | Hits: 250 | Size: 118.03 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


I've never found a used tailgate whose remote was NOT bent, but this is among the worst.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Center Straight.JPG | Hits: 5679 | Size: 25.77 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


Fortunately, with the mechanism out, it's easy to straighten the bent lever. Spray it with WD-40 or flowable grease before re-installing it. If the center (top) lever doesn't rotate freely enough for the coil spring to return it, the latches can't lock.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGCenterMech.JPG | Hits: 3255 | Size: 51.45 KB | Posted on: 5/23/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Center Latch Mechanism from '95

Fits '78-96; includes all original fasteners, glass interlock rod, & inside pushrod grommet. Does not include inside handle or pushrod.

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Center Gone.JPG | Hits: 6091 | Size: 55.31 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


To access the motor connector, push out these 2 retainers and pull the connector where you can see it. If you're only changing the motor drive gear, this isn't necessary.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Latch & Switch.JPG | Hits: 7364 | Size: 68.04 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


This is the safety interlock switch on the driver's latch that prevents the motor from operating with the tailgate open. Ford put it here from ~'85 until '96. Before that, it was on the center mechanism and was sensitive to EITHER latch being open.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.



To permanently defeat it (and risk breaking the t/g glass), unplug its connector & install a jumper wire between the 2 terminals.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Mechanism Inside.JPG | Hits: 7970 | Size: 82.57 KB | Posted on: 7/7/03 | Link to this image


The rod running to the Left (down) is the interlock rod that detects the glass being fully down. It is supported by a clip similar to the ones used for the hood cable, and the ones visible here on the long latch rods. The one to the R (up) is the one from the inside handle. You can see that the mechanism it's attached to is bent. This comes from attempting to open the tailgate before the glass is FULLY down and it causes the inside handle not to return fully flat.

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Mechanism All.JPG | Hits: 6276 | Size: 73.53 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


This shows the interlock switch installed in its early location on the center mechanism ONLY for illustration.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Latch Closed.JPG | Hits: 6895 | Size: 35.98 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


To operate the motor with the tailgate open, simply close the driver's latch. Be SURE to open it before you attempt to close the tailgate or you'll damage the plastic sleeve on the strike bolt.

On '78~85, BOTH latches must be closed because the interlock switch is mounted to the center mechanism.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGRegulator.JPG | Hits: 5877 | Size: 60.58 KB | Posted on: 5/17/07 | Link to this image


'78-96 Bronco Tailgate Window Regulator front & back
(early regulator arms may have round swivels instead of square)

If EITHER the glass or the motor is installed, the regulator is safe. But if BOTH are removed with the arms down, the lift spring will snap both arms up violently, which could cause injury. The regulator must be in THIS position (nearly fully down) to remove it from the tailgate, but if the motor has to be removed, power it so the arms go to the full up position first. When the L arm is barely touching the stop, it's safe to remove the motor.

Actual dimensions w/motor: 11.5 lbs 24x16x3"
Actual dimensions w/o motor: 8.5 lbs 24x16x1.5"

The best grease for the slides & tracks is PTFE.

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

RegMotor.JPG | Hits: 2062 | Size: 101.06 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


These motor screws aren't very tight in the threads, so I'm threadlocking them in. Since this motor is so new & works so well, I doubt the truck will last long enough for it to need replacement again.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Motor Bolts.JPG | Hits: 6044 | Size: 41.51 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


To access the motor, remove these 3 bolts (5/16" 6-point head w/integral washer; 12-24x5/8"). If the glass has already been removed, the regulator's spring can snap the arms & gears, so be careful.

It's MUCH easier to remove the regulator first.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Wire Unclipped.JPG | Hits: 5609 | Size: 36.81 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


To get enough slack in the wire to pull the motor out & work on it, remove the clip from the bottom of the tailgate. Remember to reinstall it later, or the wire could become entangled in the glass or regulator.

That hook on the L side is the bottom of the interlock rod, but it's disconnected at the top & laid over to the side right now. Normally, its long section would point straight at that hole in the background.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Motor Open.JPG | Hits: 6210 | Size: 54.99 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


If the window doesn't move while the motor is turning, it's likely that the bushings inside the motor gear have disintegrated. To change or repair the motor drive gear, remove the phillips screw and then the seal plate to expose the gear.

Also see:

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Window Motor Gear.jpg | Hits: 6883 | Size: 48.91 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


This is the repair kit (DOAZ-62234A24-B $27.37 List; $20.53 in 2004), but you can also use 1/4" fuel hose with thin plastic tubing inside to reinforce it & cut to length, or even appropriately-sized nuts to fill in where the original rubber insulators were. There are also aftermarket suppliers of the delrin bushings visible inside the gear assembly, and they cost ~$5 for the kit.

Also see:

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Motor Apart.JPG | Hits: 7487 | Size: 69.52 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


The pointers show what's left of the rubber insulators, which probably degraded faster due to the excessive grease inside the gear. As the new part demonstrates, NONE is required inside the white plastic gear.

The metal & nylon gears simply slide up off the shaft. The kit includes grease to lube the central shaft & the outer teeth of the new gear before installation. Reattach the seal plate, & reinstall the motor on the regulator. Push or pull the glass slightly to align the gears so the motor mounting holes will line up. Lube the regulator gears while you have access.

There's also an aftermarket repair kit available from any parts store that deals in MotorMite HELP! parts - it's just the 3 delrin bushings (green pointer), and you stuff them into your gears. Advance charges ~$8 for them, which is a rip-off price.

Many people just drop 3 steel nuts in; they'll never wear out. You can also use sections of coil spring cut to length, thick rubber hose with something inside to keep it from collapsing, or even just fill the gears with epoxy.

Also see:


Motor bolts are 5/16" 6-point head w/integral washer; 12-24x5/8".

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Motor97.JPG | Hits: 1954 | Size: 88.47 KB | Posted on: 8/14/11 | Link to this image


There are several stock motors that will fit & work, and this might be the fastest one I've found. I have no idea what it came out of, though.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Regulator.JPG | Hits: 5721 | Size: 58.74 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


The motor drive's shaft aligns thru the hole in the top of the regulator. If the large gear is popping off the motor gear, bend the small tab down that overhangs the regulator gear to hold it flat against the regulator chassis. Also, ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of the regulator.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Swingaway Brace.JPG | Hits: 5252 | Size: 71.44 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Before removing the regluator, remove the tire carrier's strike brace (if equipped).

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Strike Bracket.JPG | Hits: 5237 | Size: 67.45 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Later Broncos (~'90-96) have 3 bolts holding the strike to the bracket. Before that, there were only 2.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSections.JPG | Hits: 4933 | Size: 30.26 KB | Posted on: 7/29/07 | Link to this image


'83-96 Bronco Tailgate in cross-sectional views

'78-82 is only different in the latches & interlock switch takeout, which comes off the motor harness near the center mechanism. For latch details, see this:

. .

The wiring harness is slightly different behind the taillight: early trucks have a large 3-blade connector for the window motor, and optionally a 1-blade for the defrost; later trucks' harnesses continue to a 4-pin connector inside the frame rail forward of the bumper. All with defrost have a ring terminal behind the taillight (G400).

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGTemplate.JPG | Hits: 3123 | Size: 59.72 KB | Posted on: 10/13/10 | Link to this image


Bronco Tailgate Emergency Access Templates

These allow 4 holes to be drilled in the tailgate inner skin for access to the glass channel nuts when the glass is fully down AND the motor is dead. Once the nuts are removed, the glass can be raised and the motor replaced.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Regulator Remove.JPG | Hits: 5080 | Size: 82.08 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


With the regulator arms in this position (note the socket on the bolt in the regulator gear hole), all the mounting bolts can be accessed & removed.

But this regulator position DOES load the lift spring, so do NOT remove the motor from the regulator with the arms NOT attached to the glass AND in any position other than fully UP against the stop. If the arms are still attached to the glass, the motor can be removed with the arms in any position.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Regulator Out.JPG | Hits: 4938 | Size: 68.47 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


The regulator fits out the driver's side. On earlier Broncos, there is a brace here that must be removed. It has 1 phillips screw at the bottom. The slot for its top tab is visible in the foreground.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Trim 86EFI.jpg | Hits: 2882 | Size: 14.61 KB | Posted on: 7/12/03 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate trim panel for 84-86 EFI Bronco

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGTrimRed.JPG | Hits: 2185 | Size: 57.56 KB | Posted on: 9/10/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Bronco Tailgate Trim Panel with red reflector & all mounting hardware fits all '78-96 Broncos.

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Trim Panel.JPG | Hits: 5581 | Size: 80.72 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


The trim panel can be removed after the access panel if the glass is rolled up out of the way. No other disassembly is needed. On '78-86, remove the 4 black phillips screws from the corners of the trim panel on its rear (outer) face. On '87-91, remove the 2 gold stamped nuts (9mm) from each inner side of the tailgate. On '92-96, remove the 2 closed nuts (11mm) from each inner side of the tailgate. On all, remove the 2 gold stamped nuts (9mm) inside the tailgate on each side of the regulator. Later panels have foam rubber around the outer edge that may adhere to the paint.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGTrim95.JPG | Hits: 2171 | Size: 65.62 KB | Posted on: 5/21/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Trim Panel from '95 Bronco

Fits '78-96; includes all original fasteners. Blue oval has been replaced, those nuts have been removed, and the pegs are clipped flush. The smoke stripe is reflecting the eaves of my house - there are no significant blemishes on it, and it's still shiny.

Ships as 68x16x6" @ 14lbs.

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TG96.JPG | Hits: 2419 | Size: 29.89 KB | Posted on: 7/24/07 | Link to this image


SOLD '83-96 Bronco Tailgate from '96 Black EB

Inside latch handle doesn't lie flat. Trim panel smoke stripe has a white drip (possibly paint). Carpet needs cleaning.

NO RUST, dents, cracks, or noticeable damage - just scuffs on the paint & normal wear.

Includes '92-96 wiring harness to frame, heated glass, carpet, access panel, hinges, swingaway strike, all original hardware.

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Actual dimensions: 70x24x7" 129 lbs
Shipping dimensions: 70x 27x9" 170 lbs MUST GO TRUCK FREIGHT or be picked up locally if left complete. For cheaper shipping, I can remove the regulator w/motor, and ship it separately.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate TrimPanel.jpg | Hits: 5226 | Size: 46.91 KB | Posted on: 10/14/05 | Link to this image


Trim Panel '87-96

F-series A clips are plastic & fragile. The only source of replacments I know if is:
http://shop.autocraftinvestments.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=id&search_str=F-42596-1
http://shop.autocraftinvestments.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=id&search_str=F-42596-2
I don't know why there are 2 types and only 3 required; there should be 3 of A required, and 4 of B (same as Bronco C).

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TailgateLockParts.JPG | Hits: 4997 | Size: 38.01 KB | Posted on: 7/7/06 | Link to this image


Lock Cylinder for '78-96 Bronco tailgate

The parts are shown in factory order. The switch assembly (permanently attached to the t/g wiring harness) fits around the part in the insets.

TSB 99-24-02 Service PN: F6TZ-9821984-AA

I usually keep spare lock cylinders, so if you can't find one locally, e-mail me thru my profile here.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Switch C.JPG | Hits: 5150 | Size: 56.71 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


The tailgate key switch is 2 weather-resistant SPDT micro switches riveted into a bracket, and operated by a paddle attached to the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder is retained by the brown clip against the painted surface, much like the door lock cylinder retainer clips. The switch assembly is retained on the lock cylinder by the hairpin behind the center of the paddle.

I usually keep spare lock cylinders, so if you can't find one locally, e-mail me thru my profile here.

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Switch Down.JPG | Hits: 5422 | Size: 47.95 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


When the key is rotated CW, the paddle presses the lower switch. The silver hairpin clip retains the switch assembly on the lock cylinder.

I usually keep spare lock cylinders, so if you can't find one locally, e-mail me thru my profile here.

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Switch Up.JPG | Hits: 4721 | Size: 62.88 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


When the key is rotated CCW, the paddle presses the upper switch. Note the arrangement of parts on top of the switch bracket: E-ring, spacer, spring washer, paddle, switch bracket.

I usually keep spare lock cylinders, so if you can't find one locally, e-mail me thru my profile here.

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Switch Off.jpg | Hits: 4367 | Size: 15.51 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


By removing ONLY the silver clip, the switch assembly can be removed from the lock cylinder.

I usually keep spare lock cylinders, so if you can't find one locally, e-mail me thru my profile here.

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Pad.JPG | Hits: 3674 | Size: 60.08 KB | Posted on: 5/17/07 | Link to this image


This pad is used to protect the tailgate paint from the rubber bumper on the bottom of the swingaway tire carrier. The pad is adhesive, and the pins keep it from sliding when the truck bounces. Applying teflon dry lube (TDL) or silicone grease will prevent the rubber bumper from stretching the pad like this.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Clip Remove.JPG | Hits: 4169 | Size: 62.56 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


To remove these clips (which are used on the frame also), push the pin in the center all the way through.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Clip.JPG | Hits: 3856 | Size: 99.79 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


With the center pin out, the clip compresses, and can be pulled out of its hole.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate cables.JPG | Hits: 4156 | Size: 59.56 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Early cable screws are #3 or #4 phillips; later ones are T-50. New cables are available from most parts stores for ~$13ea. I may have some for sale. E-mail me thru my profile.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Torque Rod.JPG | Hits: 4620 | Size: 79.06 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Before unbolting the tailgate from its hinges, first relieve the torque rod by bracing it against the tailgate & removing its guide loop from the body. Forgetting to brace it before removing the bolts can cause injury, especially if done with the tailgate fully down (torsion bar fully loaded). I use this large combination wrench with a piece of thin cardboard under the corner to protect the paint.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGTorqueRodBrkt.JPG | Hits: 3404 | Size: 58.28 KB | Posted on: 9/12/07 | Link to this image


The infamous torsion bar bracket. It cups up, so if it's allowed to collect dirt & rain, it rusts out. Then, when the t/g is lowered, the torque on the rod breaks the bracket, and the bottom corner of the bar (with the foam tube) swings down & shatters the window.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TorsnRodAcc.JPG | Hits: 1297 | Size: 77.93 KB | Posted on: 1/24/12 | Link to this image


With the R hinge fully back, the torsion bar will BARELY fit out. Raising the hinge, or raising the t/g on the lower hinge, would help. The foam sleeve has to come off the inside end before it will slide out of the hole.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGTorqueRodRemv.JPG | Hits: 3960 | Size: 60.75 KB | Posted on: 9/12/07 | Link to this image


Torsion Bar Removal & Installation

The tailgate must be misaligned or removed to get the torsion bar in or out. The foam sleeve also has to come off the inside end for the rod to come out of the hole.



For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGLatch78-82.JPG | Hits: 3257 | Size: 22.23 KB | Posted on: 9/5/08 | Link to this image


'78-82 tailgate latches are significantly different from '83-96. Because they mount differently in the tailgate, neither the latches nor the t/g skins will interchange across those years. This is the only significant difference on '78-96 Bronco tailgates.



Their strikes that mount to the body can be interchanged with some effort.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

StrikeBolt 78Bronco.jpg | Hits: 4733 | Size: 56.08 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


'78-82 Broncos used this type of strike bolt, and a different latch from '83-96. They are not interchangeable.

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

StrikeBolt832.JPG | Hits: 2508 | Size: 70.46 KB | Posted on: 6/13/09 | Link to this image


This is an '83-96 tailgate strike bolt installed in the hole for a '78-82 type using a large angle-iron nut plate (not visible inside). Although not ideal, it has worked fine for ~12 years of rough use. I suspect the reason it's holding up is that I keep the t/g aligned, so there's very little stress on the strikes.

It's barely visible here:

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Cutaway.jpg | Hits: 7221 | Size: 68.86 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Glass & Weatherbelts

The outside weatherbelt that wipes the glass is D8TZ-9841610-A and cost $24 in 1996. The inner (9841676 above) is F6TZ-9842072-AA and was $27. Use silicone spray lube on the flocked weatherbelts & glass runs.

The best grease for the slides & tracks ON THE GLASS is PTFE:


Reassemble in this order:
1. pressure wash & allow to dry in sun for a day or 3
2. undercoat inside bottom (to prevent rust) & allow to dry for a day or 3
3. lock cylinder, latches, center mechanism, inside handle, bottom bumpstops, regulator w/motor
4. switch & harness, outside trim panel (if applicable)
5. side tracks
6. glass
7. glass tracks, weatherbelts
8. end seals, rain shield
9. access panel

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Xploded.JPG | Hits: 847 | Size: 85.77 KB | Posted on: 5/9/13 | Link to this image


Exploded Tailgate
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGnew01.JPG | Hits: 207 | Size: 128 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


The previous owner rear-ended this '96 XLT Sport, and installed a replacement t/g with a trim panel. The new owner wants it to look right (no trim panel), so he bought this new t/g without trim panel holes for me to install. It's marketed for '83-93 because it has large latches ('83-96) and no carpet holes (except '94-96), so we'll drill holes for the carpet pushpins. I'm also adding my right-side reinforcement, and undercoating the bottom seam so it won't fill with dirt, salt, & water.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGnew02.JPG | Hits: 182 | Size: 105.15 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


Any automotive undercoating will significantly reduce the chances of tailgate rust, and I'm putting it on heavy.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGnew03.JPG | Hits: 182 | Size: 112.06 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


To perfectly center the swingaway bolt holes, first install the brace to the t/g, with this upper area centered over the welded & punched reinforcement inside. Then thread a pointed bolt into the bracket from inside the t/g so it presses against the skin, and use a rubber mallet from the outside to dimple the sheet metal over the bolt's point.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGnew04.JPG | Hits: 178 | Size: 100.42 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


Reverse the dimples with the drill bit tip and they should be perfectly aligned with the bracket inside. A stepped bit will do less damage to the threads, but don't let it go to a step larger than the nut holes or you'll remove the threads.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Xtract1.JPG | Hits: 182 | Size: 115.16 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


The bottom hinge bolts commonly rust, seize, cross-thread, and break, so use a good bolt as a drift to hammer the nut plate down, bending its tabs until it can be removed from the t/g.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Xtract2.JPG | Hits: 175 | Size: 124.53 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


Grind the broken bolt flat & flush with the nut plate on both sides, center punch it, and drill 5/16".

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Xtract3.JPG | Hits: 192 | Size: 125.73 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


Use a file to carefully remove the remaining bolt until only its thread is left. Using a rough file with high pressure should pull the bolt thread remnant out of the nut plate threads.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Xtract4.JPG | Hits: 185 | Size: 109.97 KB | Posted on: 4/21/14 | Link to this image


Chase the nut plate with a 3/8"-16 tap so the bolt goes in easily, then apply anti-seize lube during assembly. When the nut plate is in-place, bend its retaining tabs back down with a hammer.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Latch 83-96.jpg | Hits: 9232 | Size: 88.89 KB | Posted on: 8/23/05 | Link to this image


'83-96 Bronco Tailgate Latches

1 - Tailgate Latch Remote Control
2 - Screw
3 - Tailgate Latch Release Handle
4 - Plug Button
5 - Clip
6 - Link
7 - Screw and Washer; tighten to 3-8 N-m (2-6 Lb-Ft)
8 - Tailgate Latch Bracket
9 - Rod
10 - Screw and Washer; tighten to 8-14 N-m (6-11 Lb-Ft)
11 - Clip
12 - Clip
13 - Bushing

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Latches.jpg | Hits: 5090 | Size: 51.48 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Latches

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TailgateLatches.jpg | Hits: 5660 | Size: 88.51 KB | Posted on: 10/14/05 | Link to this image


Latches

1 Tailgate Latch Remote Control 43170
2 Screw 56950-S55
3 Tailgate Latch Release Handle 431C62
4 Plug Button 388016-S
5 Clip 98431F72
6 Tailgate Latch Release Link 43868
7 Screw and Washer 387819-S103
8 Tailgate Latch Bracket 431D76
9 Tailgate Latch Control Rod 9843880
10 Screw and Washer 57502-S2
11 Clip 389666-S
12 Bushing 386656-S
A Tighten to 3-8 N-m (27-71 Lb-In)
B Tighten to 9-14 N-m (80-124 Lb-In)

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGHinges.JPG | Hits: 2071 | Size: 37.13 KB | Posted on: 5/17/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Hinges

Fit '78-96
Normal wear

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGBedWeatherstrip.JPG | Hits: 3692 | Size: 65.55 KB | Posted on: 9/29/07 | Link to this image


Tailgate Threshhold Seal '78-96

Note that the body style shown is '78-79 (taillight & strike mounting) and the actual threshhold is NOT shown. But the seal & retainer are the same for '78-96.

The 56928-S55 screws are phillips head with large integral washer ~1/4" long with self-drilling tip.The 55933-S55 screws are countersunk oval phillips head ~1/4" long with normal pointed tip.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGThreshhold.JPG | Hits: 1998 | Size: 29.66 KB | Posted on: 4/21/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Bronco Tailgate Threshhold

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGThreshholdBk.JPG | Hits: 1728 | Size: 100.22 KB | Posted on: 7/24/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Bronco Tailgate Threshhold from '92-96 fits '78-96

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Torsion 8396.jpg | Hits: 5223 | Size: 79.58 KB | Posted on: 10/16/05 | Link to this image


Hinges, Torque Rod, & '83-96 Strikes. The strike bolt is the only thing in this diagram specific to '83-96. Everything else applies to '78-96.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Torsion 7882.jpg | Hits: 4737 | Size: 59.41 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


78-82 Strikes & Torque Rod. The strike bolt & support are the only things in this diagram specific to '78-82. Everything else applies to '78-96.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

StrikeGap1.JPG | Hits: 2184 | Size: 84.1 KB | Posted on: 6/13/09 | Link to this image


The tailgate gap should be the same at the top as at the bottom. If it's too wide at the top, the bedrails need to be bent inward.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

StrikeGap2.JPG | Hits: 2304 | Size: 57.18 KB | Posted on: 6/13/09 | Link to this image


The best way to bend the bedwalls inward is with a large ratchet strap hooked into the body crossmember at the bottom rear of each quarter panel. Use the ratchet only to take the slack out, then sit on the strap to bend the body. If only one side needs to be bent, install a brace (a 2x4 cut to fit will work) from the bottom of that side to the top of the side that doesn't need adjustment.

Check progress frequently.

http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

LatchIndicator.JPG | Hits: 2000 | Size: 48.95 KB | Posted on: 5/20/12 | Link to this image


Bronco Tailgate Safety Latch Light

.

This can be any common 12V incandescent panel lamp. It's simply wired across the safety switch in a '78-96 Bronco tailgate. If the window doesn't work, and the lamp lights, the problem is that the safety switch isn't closed, probably due to the the tailgate latches not being fully closed, and the tailgate should be re-aligned. If the lamp DOESN'T light when the window won't move, the fault is elsewhere.



An LED should NOT be used because it will only work for one window direction (either up or down).

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

LatchLighu.JPG | Hits: 950 | Size: 64.51 KB | Posted on: 3/5/13 | Link to this image


Tailgate Latch Light indicates that the latch is not fully closed when attempting to operate t/g window motor.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

.

This can be any common 12V incandescent panel lamp. It's simply wired across the safety switch in a '78-96 Bronco tailgate. If the window doesn't work, and the lamp lights, the problem is that the safety switch isn't closed, probably due to the the tailgate latches not being fully closed, and the tailgate should be re-aligned. If the lamp DOESN'T light when the window won't move, the fault is elsewhere.



An LED should NOT be used because it will only work for one window direction (either up or down).

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGCircuit.JPG | Hits: 5306 | Size: 31.42 KB | Posted on: 3/15/09 | Link to this image


The Bronco tailgate window circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 2 switches. Each switch has its own power feed; the dash switch through the ignition switch (key-on only) and the tailgate key switch from the battery (always hot). The dash switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the key switch normally holds the motor wires to the dash switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor (assuming the latch switch is closed). When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is disconnected OR in the opposite position.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the latch safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.
.

See also:

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGcircuitMods.JPG | Hits: 3278 | Size: 76.3 KB | Posted on: 6/28/12 | Link to this image


Modified Bronco Tailgate Window Circuit
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

'92-96 shown; '87-91 similar; NONE OF THESE control switch improvements (left 2 columns) will work for '78-86 Broncos due to the internal wiring of the dash switch. The simplifications, indicator lamp, & 1-touch WILL work on '78-96.



The factory circuit passes full current through 4 terminals of BOTH switches every time the window is used, resulting in high resistance & slow window movement. The modified circuits:
- reduce the current passing through the switches (making them last longer);
- replace the special switches with 2 common relays (making them easier to replace if they ever go bad);
- allows any number of additional switches with no degredation in performance;
- uses the factory wiring & circuit breakers, and requires NO new wires through the tailgate hinge (for most trucks). If the truck doesn't have a factory defrost ground wire, then one heavy ground must be added from the body inside the L taillight well to the tailgate relays & switch.

The Improved (Ground-Switched) Circuit has the benefits of converting to always-on, and having no hot wires strung through the truck. This is the best way to add switches &/or improve t/g window function.

The Hot-Switched circuit has the benefit of being simpler to rewire. But the grounds MUST be removed from the dash switch connector, and a fused hot wire must be strung to each new switch location.

The Loaded Circuit adds 1-touch modules & an indicator light to the ground-switched circuit, but both of those mods will work equally well on the hot-switched circuit, or the stock circuit.



The Simplified circuits reduce the motor to a single control switch, but do NOT protect the window from accidental breakage by raising the t/g after raising the glass.

The indicator lamp is not required in the One-Touch circuit, but it's a simple & useful addition to ANY circuit with a functional latch safety switch, including those where the indicator lamp is not shown. An easy lamp to use is RadioShack 272-0332.



Making the dash switch (& door windows) work at all times is another HIGHLY-functional mod.


Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Window Circuit.jpg | Hits: 6961 | Size: 33.93 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Window Motor Circuit from http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/
Note that the internal circuitry for the master switch is specific to '78-86 Broncos, and the most-common base color for the wires between the switches is PURPLE; not pink (the base color for door lock circuits).

See also:
.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the latch safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGWiring.JPG | Hits: 2051 | Size: 82.91 KB | Posted on: 6/30/12 | Link to this image


'78-96 Bronco Tailgate Wiring

1 - Switch and Housing Assembly (Includes 14086 Wiring) - 14046
2- Latch Assembly - 43170
3 - Ground ring terminal to Heated Backlight only
4 - Screw - 55927-S2
5- Cylinder Case Assembly - 7143184
6- Remote Control Assembly - 9843170
8 - Locator (Part of 14086 Wiring Assembly)
9 - Guard Channel (Part of 14086 Wiring Assembly)
10 - Locator (Part of 9844000 Window Regulator Assembly)
11 - Wiring (Part of 9844000 Window Regulator Assembly)
12 - Existing Locator Bracket (Part of Door Assembly)
13 - To Window Limit Switch
14 - Wiring (Part of 14046 Switch and Housing Assembly)
15 - Strap - 95873-S
16 - Limit Switch Assembly - 14A011
A. Circuit 57: Black
B. Circuit 186: Brown-Light Blue Stripe

.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

C418.JPG | Hits: 4185 | Size: 66.26 KB | Posted on: 9/12/07 | Link to this image


This is all the wiring for the tailgate, except the ground for the defrost grid. This connector is located inboard of the L frame rail between the rear bumper & the gas tank rear crossmember.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGWiring96.JPG | Hits: 3466 | Size: 53.95 KB | Posted on: 9/12/07 | Link to this image


Note that there is no connector near the ground wire, which is forward of the L taillight. C418 is located inboard of the L frame rail between the rear bumper & the gas tank rear crossmember. Earlier Broncos ('78~91) have a bulky 3-pin connector for the window motor near G400 (the ground is only used with the optional defroster). They also have a single-pin connector for power to the optional defroster. Very early FSBs ('78~86) don't have this style of C418 or any connector in its location - the t/g frame harness is continuous from the firewall up to the taillight.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Defrost Circuit Early.jpg | Hits: 3841 | Size: 29.67 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Defrost Circuit '78-86

http://fordfuelinjection.com/

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGdashSw92-96.JPG | Hits: 2119 | Size: 69.04 KB | Posted on: 11/20/09 | Link to this image


About $40.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

92s.JPG | Hits: 3803 | Size: 72.44 KB | Posted on: 11/10/05 | Link to this image


Some tailgates split here on the R side at the top due to the stress applied by the outside tire carrier. The small tab at the end cracks, putting all the load on the t/g skin, which eventually cracks & peels like this.

For more info, see these pics.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

FenderBrace.JPG | Hits: 3777 | Size: 61.01 KB | Posted on: 4/1/06 | Link to this image


The swingaway brace inside the R quarter panel is spot-welded & riveted into place BEFORE the outer skin is welded to the inner. Removal & installation on an assembled body is nearly impossible.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSwitch1.JPG | Hits: 4951 | Size: 50.5 KB | Posted on: 5/17/07 | Link to this image


Tailgate Window Switch

The switch is actually 2 SPDT microswitches which aren't designed to be separated from the harness. They're riveted to the casting that slips over the lock cylinder, with a cover plate on top.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSwitch2.JPG | Hits: 3709 | Size: 68.66 KB | Posted on: 5/18/07 | Link to this image


Tailgate Switch Wiring Colors

These wires are not intended to be removed from the switches, and the switches are not intended to be removed from the mounting plates, so the t/g internal switch is essentially a part of the t/g wiring harness assembly.

When using the key to LIFT the glass, the Pu/LB wire provides ground thru the dash switch. When LOWERING, the Pu/LG wire provides ground.

To replace one or both, drill out the rivets and either cut the wires or break open the damaged switch to unhook them from it. Then mount the replacement switch & connect the wires. Bk/Wh goes to the COMmon terminal; the Pu/? wire goes to the NC terminal; the other to the NO terminal.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSwitch3.JPG | Hits: 4094 | Size: 56.55 KB | Posted on: 5/18/07 | Link to this image


Tailgate Switch Paddle

When the tailgate lock cylinder is turned, this paddle arm swings around & presses the appropriate switch button.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSwitch4.JPG | Hits: 3586 | Size: 40.35 KB | Posted on: 5/18/07 | Link to this image


Tailgate Switch Paddle

When the key is removed from the tailgate lock cylinder, the paddle is in the center.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSwitch5.JPG | Hits: 4060 | Size: 49.3 KB | Posted on: 5/18/07 | Link to this image


Tailgate Safety Switch

Y/R is NC to Pu/LG
Br/Bk (Tn/Bk) is NC to Pu/LB
When a switch is depressed by the key lever, the it opens from the Purple wire & closes to Bk/Wh.

The safety switch breaks the circuit (open) between the DOWN switch (right side) and the motor so the glass can't be moved when the latches are open. Since the latches can only be opened when the glass is fully down, this keeps the glass from being raised while the tailgate is open. If the tailgate was closed with the glass up, the glass would shatter against the camper shell lip.

Instead of defeating the safety switch, the tailgate should be aligned so the latches are fully closed. For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this thread.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the latch safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.

.

To replace one switch or both, drill out the rivets and either cut the wires or break open the damaged switch to unhook them from it. Then mount the replacement switch & connect the wires. Bk/Wh goes to the COMmon terminal; the Pu/? wire goes to the NC terminal; the other to the NO terminal.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSwitch.JPG | Hits: 2378 | Size: 53.64 KB | Posted on: 7/24/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Bronco Tailgate Switch from '94 fits '78-96

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGHarness90.JPG | Hits: 3254 | Size: 49.09 KB | Posted on: 9/26/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Bronco Tailgate Wiring Harness from '90 fits '80-91



Note repairs & missing terminals.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the latch safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGHarness95.jpg | Hits: 3821 | Size: 45.32 KB | Posted on: 5/17/07 | Link to this image


Tailgate Wiring Harness from a '95 Bronco with defrost.



I'm not sure when the round white connector was introduced for the frame connection. Before that, the 3-pin connector was behind the L taillight. The white style shown here is inboard of the L frame rail between the bumper & the gas tank rear crossmember.

Before ~'83, the interlock switch connector was at the center mechanism, so it was on a take-out near the motor connector. To bypass the interlock (meaning that the glass can be moved when the tailgate is NOT aligned with the camper shell), just install a jumper wire between its terminals. But it's better to leave it working properly and align the tailgate so that the L latch works properly. For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this thread.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the latch safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGHarness86.JPG | Hits: 1778 | Size: 45.47 KB | Posted on: 9/21/08 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Harness fits '78~90 with or w/o defrost.



To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the latch safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGHarness95.jpg | Hits: 3079 | Size: 45.32 KB | Posted on: 5/17/07 | Link to this image


Tailgate Wiring Harness from '95 Bronco with defrost



Same as '78-96, except:
1) '78-(?)91 have a different main connector to the frame wiring
2) '78-82 have the safety interlock connector near the window motor connector because their switch is on the center mechanism

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this thread.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the latch safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGAccessPnl.JPG | Hits: 2069 | Size: 101.96 KB | Posted on: 4/10/06 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Access Panel fits '78-96 Bronco tailgates. No rust, dents, wear, or warping. Factory dark green paint (~'95?).

Ships as 55x13x2 @ 10.5 lbs

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGAccess.JPG | Hits: 1566 | Size: 49.28 KB | Posted on: 5/15/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Access Panel

The white mess is just paper that got dissolved by rain.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

AccessPanels.JPG | Hits: 1838 | Size: 58.44 KB | Posted on: 7/24/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate Access Panels for '78-96 Broncos (white)

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this thread on FourDoorBronco.com.

Each ships BARE as 54x12x1" @ 10 lbs
OR
Wrapped in cardboard as 55x13x1" @ 11 lbs

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TG90.JPG | Hits: 1777 | Size: 55.49 KB | Posted on: 7/13/07 | Link to this image


SOLD '83-96 Bronco Tailgate from '90 EB

Motor needs bushings. Inside latch handle doesn't lie flat. Trim panel stripe & blue oval missing. Defroster terminal missing. Does NOT include swingaway strike or hardware. Does NOT include trim panel w/black stripe below.

NO RUST, dents, cracks, or noticeable damage - just scuffs on the paint & normal wear.

Includes wiring harness to frame, glass, access panel, hinges, one cable, all original hardware.

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Actual dimensions: 70x24x7" 123.5 lbs
Shipping dimensions: 70x 27x9" 148 lbs

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

90TGcrate.JPG | Hits: 2115 | Size: 72.94 KB | Posted on: 7/22/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Tailgate from '90 EB Bronco

I had to remove the trim panel & sheet one side in cardboard to get it under the 150 lb weight limit. That's ~$40 in lumber.

Shipping dimensions: 70x27x9" 148 lbs

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TG96Crated.JPG | Hits: 3479 | Size: 57.25 KB | Posted on: 10/2/07 | Link to this image


96 Tailgate Crated

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSkin90Bk.JPG | Hits: 1989 | Size: 77.57 KB | Posted on: 9/10/07 | Link to this image


SOLD Empty Bronco Tailgate Shell & Access Panel fits '83-96 Broncos. There are a few other small chips & blemishes not shown, but they're minor. All other tailgate parts available separately.

For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224

Actual dimensions: 71 lbs. 67x24x7"
Approximate shipping dimensions (in cardboard box): 80 lbs 69x25x9"
Approximate shipping dimensions (in wood crate): 98 lbs 70x 27x9"

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGTrimB88.JPG | Hits: 936 | Size: 114.08 KB | Posted on: 2/20/12 | Link to this image


SOLD '87-96 Bronco Tailgate Trim Panel w/o trim strip

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Tailgate Defrost Circuit.jpg | Hits: 3833 | Size: 27.24 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image


Defrost Circuit '92-96

'87-91 similar

http://fordfuelinjection.com/

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGSwitchC274.JPG | Hits: 3947 | Size: 36.71 KB | Posted on: 4/26/07 | Link to this image


Pinout for '87-96 Dash Switch CONNECTOR (harness side) for Tailgate Window
(Looking into the switch, the pins would be reversed.)

Pin 2 is normally closed to pin 4, & pin 3 to pin 5. When the switch is operated, either pin 3 or pin 4 is momentarily opened from ground & closed to pin 1 (power).

To bypass the dash switch & test the rest of the circuit for DOWN, turn the key to RUN or ACC, install a jumper (paperclip, etc.) from 3 (P/LG) to either ground (2 or 5 Bk), then install a jumper from 1 to 4. To test UP, jumper 4 to either ground, and 3 to 1. If the motor doesn't spin during both tests, the dash switch is NOT the only fault.

Maximum current draw when glass is moving is 4A @ 14VDC.

See also:

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

tailgate-window-circuit-aux.JPG | Hits: 4391 | Size: 43.25 KB | Posted on: 11/15/06 | Link to this image


Auxilliary t/g window switch circuit for '78-86 Broncos. This design is fairly simple, but requires long splice wires (due to the factory routing), and creates extra resistance in an already-stressed circuit. For a VASTLY superior modification to '87-96 Broncos, see:


Note that the internal circuitry for the dash switch is specific to '78-86 Broncos.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp across the latch safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Wthrblt1.JPG | Hits: 100 | Size: 125.87 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


One of several signs that the t/g weatherbelts are ruined is rain coming out of the access panel and soaking the rear carpet. This can be difficult to notice if the ('94-96 only) t/g carpet is installed, but the trails are visible here. They appear because the factory painted paper water shedder is installed in the easy (WRONG) location, and it deteriorates rapidly.

Other signs of weatherbelt failure include:
- defrost grid abrasions, sometimes causing the glass to shatter when the defroster is activated
- glass abrasions
- loose glass
- noise when glass is moving
- tailgate rust

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Wthrblt2.JPG | Hits: 98 | Size: 129.42 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


These aftermarket weatherbelts are shipped as a pair (as they should be) and are virtually identical to the originals, including holes & installed clips.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Wthrblt3.JPG | Hits: 89 | Size: 98 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


Perfect matches. The outer belt is longer than the inner.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Wthrblt4.JPG | Hits: 87 | Size: 128.14 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


I apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass, and silicone spray to the other rubber surfaces. The dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; and the silicone helps preserve the rubber & reduce water deposits, ozone damage, and general aging.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

Wthrblt5.JPG | Hits: 93 | Size: 106.35 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


Both belts fit perfectly, and my original end seals are still in useable condition.

The red light is my own modification to indicate when the t/g isn't fully latched.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGshield.JPG | Hits: 91 | Size: 127.53 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


This is a factory water shedder. It's taped along the bottom (the t/g is upside-down), and has a tacky adhesive along the top and across the middle. But since the rain leaks in along the top where the weatherbelt meets the glass, and then drips off the bottom edge of the glass, it falls on the paper and then runs in between the paper the t/g. The tape is supposed to create a seal & a dam that holds the rain in its pocket, forcing it to flow back into the t/g, but over the years, the rain works its way down past the tape. Then it flows down between the t/g & the access panel, out onto the t/g threshold seal. When that fills, it overflows the threshold and runs over to the carpet, where it seeps in and continues forward (assuming the truck is parked flat) under the rear seat, and down onto the front floor where it soaks into THAT carpet. Eventually, it makes its way to the front door thresholds where it corrodes the wiring.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGshiele.JPG | Hits: 82 | Size: 120.86 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


This is a factory water shedder. It's taped along the bottom (the t/g is upside-down), and has a tacky adhesive along the top and across the middle. But since the rain leaks in along the top where the weatherbelt meets the glass, and then drips off the bottom edge of the glass, it falls on the paper and then runs in between the paper the t/g. The tape is supposed to create a seal & a dam that holds the rain in its pocket, forcing it to flow back into the t/g, but over the years, the rain works its way down past the tape. Then it flows down between the t/g & the access panel, out onto the t/g threshold seal. When that fills, it overflows the threshold and runs over to the carpet, where it seeps in and continues forward (assuming the truck is parked flat) under the rear seat, and down onto the front floor where it soaks into THAT carpet. Eventually, it makes its way to the front door thresholds where it corrodes the wiring.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGshielf.JPG | Hits: 93 | Size: 118.75 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


The inner face of the water shedder is painted black so it doesn't absorb water QUITE as fast as if it was bare.

I've never understood why Ford didn't use a plastic shedder here, like on the front doors; OR why it was installed so that the water still comes inside the t/g.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGshielg.JPG | Hits: 96 | Size: 118.99 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


This scrap of common plastic drop sheet should last much longer than the factory paper water shedder, and perform much better installed inside the t/g where it will keep the water inside so it goes out the t/g drains.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGshieli.JPG | Hits: 103 | Size: 116.83 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


Being very careful not to wrinkle the plastic, I applied a few strips of Gorilla tape, folded it over so it would fit, and fed it straight into the t/g along the glass.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGshielj.JPG | Hits: 103 | Size: 96.4 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


This was the REALLY tricky part: lifting the tape and sticking it to the t/g inner reinforcement bar, without wrinkling the plastic. But this location will cause any water dripping off the bottom of the raised glass to fall on the glass side of the plastic. Then it will run down the plastic past the access opening and out the bottom of the t/g thru its original drain holes, onto the ground where it belongs.

Url
Tag
Img
Thumb

TGshielk.JPG | Hits: 113 | Size: 121.48 KB | Posted on: 6/29/14 | Link to this image


After the tape is secure along the top, the plastic sheet is unfolded and tucked so it SHOULD stay between the glass and the operating rods. The driver's side has to stay clear of the defrost wiring (if installed).

I don't expect it to be very difficult to push the plastic out of the way for t/g service, but time will tell. If it has to come out, it's cheap, and quick to replace.


About SuperMotors | Contact Us | FAQ/Help | Legal
Copyright © 1998-2014 Web Design Solutions, Inc.
All rights reserved. Duplication & reproduction is strictly prohibited.
SuperMotors.net v5.0.2 ChangeLog